On wheels of opulence

It was by royal association that the Scottish Highlands were first made famous and desirable.

Queen Victoria, enamoured by poet Sir Walter Scott's bucolic works depicting the splendour and grandeur of his homeland, decided to travel through Scotland by train.

Taken by the beauty of the countryside, she bought the Balmoral Castle, which was to become her favourite residence and one which has since been the regular summer home for the British royal family.

Had the queen been alive, she would have surely loved to travel across Scotland aboard the luxury train, The Royal Scotsman.

One among a handful of super-luxury trains around the world and closely related to the famed Orient Express, The Royal Scotsman recaptures all the grace and charm of the Victorian era.

Beautiful city

The journey begins in Edinburgh, east Scotland. Dominated by the medieval castle, Princes Street and the Royal Mile, the city is the perfect point to start and finish the journey.

Standing tall is the historic hotel, The Balmoral. Built in stone, it embodies all the qualities of the Scottish capital.

Inside the high-ceilinged rooms, the ambience reflects good taste and provides the perfect rendezvous for the city's movers and shakers.

The Royal Scotsman starts its journey at Waverley station, just a short walk away. Gold-embossed boarding cards and VIP luggage tags are issued by staff dressed in tartan and finely tailored jackets.

As the time for departure nears, the travellers are regally escorted to the train on the adjoining platform by a resplendently kilted bagpiper.

The Royal Scotsman is not a huge train. Its nine distinctive maroon-and-gold carriages are fitted out with rich woods, marquetry and Scottish tartan fabric.

Creating a sense of luxury, the staterooms have panoramic windows, couches from which to watch the scenery roll by and a fully equipped bathroom serviced daily with fresh towels and luxury amenities.

The staterooms are converted into cosy sleeping quarters with soft beds, complete with crisp cotton sheets, warm duvets and feather pillows.

To help guests get a good night's rest, the train makes a stopover before moving on again the next morning.

While it is tempting to stay cocooned in the staterooms, life on-board beckons you to take part.

The Observation Car of The Royal Scotsman resembles the lounge of an elegant country home.

This is where you can sit with a cup of tea served in fine bone china and a couple of melt-in-your-mouth Scottish shortbread biscuits while chatting with friends or acquaintances.

Newly-weds Judy and Patrick were all smiles as they mentioned they were on their honeymoon.

“We knew we wanted to do something different,'' Judy said, as the train travelled north of Perth, in the afternoon sun, past the green pastures with sheep grazing against the backdrop of craggy mountains.

At the end of the train is an open deck which offers an unrestricted view of the countryside.

There is such variety — from the still waters of the lochs framed by rugged mountains to fields of heather blowing gently in the afternoon breeze.

Scotland is alluring when the dark clouds sweep over the mountains and the wind blows gently through the trees.

Inside the train, the lounge is the perfect place to spend a bit of time discovering the fascinating history of Scotland.

The polished-wood bookcase holds plenty of coffee-table books which will have you in raptures and whet your appetite for the excursions by luxury coach over the next few days.

One of the exciting off-train trips offers a chance to take part in a traditional Highland dance party or ceilidh in the small town of Strathisla.

As the bagpipers and drummers play a stirring melody, dancers in tartan kilts and gleaming sporrans perform the Highland Fling.

The party atmosphere is a wonderful welcome to Scotland. Each day we are treated to other discoveries off the train — a walk around a Scottish country estate to inspect the Highland cattle or a chance to see how cashmere garments are produced at the Johnstons Mill.

Mock tales

After dinner on board it is time to return to the Observation Car to relive Scotland's fascinating past through one of the greatest living storytellers, Ray Owens.

Dressed in a traditional 18th-century Highland costume, he weaves his tale around Bonny Prince Charlie and the battles fought to preserve Scottish heritage.

A journey aboard The Royal Scotsman is more than just travelling. It is a way of discovering new friends in a refined, relaxed atmosphere.

Many people come back after their first trip. Luckily, there are a number of routes to enjoy, from two nights to a whole week. Margaret and George, from South Africa, said this was their third time on-board the train.

“As soon as we stepped off after our first trip we booked a second,'' said Margaret.

“This is our third time but definitely not our last.'' As the passengers sit back with a cup of tea, watching the glens and lochs pass by, it is nice to ponder on the romantic visions that Sir Walter Scott had of his beloved Scotland and how little some of the simpler things in this part of the world have changed.

For more information and travel reservations for The Royal Scotsman, visit www.orient-express.com

— Scott Adams is a Madrid-based freelance writer

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Hotel

Edinburgh's best bet

The Balmoral

Situated on Edinburgh's prestigious Princes Street, this is a historic landmark hotel with its distinctive clock tower, boasts a fresh designer style while maintaining many of its original decorative elements such as the marble fireplaces and stained glass windows.

The restaurant, One, boasts a Michelin star for its superb and inspired cuisine.

Upstairs in the designer rooms and suites, the focus is on style and comfort, with oversized sofas, original works of art and large marble bathrooms.

Guests can also enjoy a classic view of the Edinburgh Castle and the historic church spires.

For more information, visit www.thebalmoralhotel.com

Food

Fine dining

One of the highlights of this trip is fine food. Scotland is famous for seafood, salmon, beef and lamb.

On-board, the two dining cars, Victory and Raven, have white linen tablecloths and gleaming silver.

For Chef Alonzo, a culinary expert from Spain, the fishing village, Kyle of Lochalsh, offers a rare chance to buy directly from the fishermen.

He alights from the train and selects the best of the plump pink langoustines before returning to prepare dinner.

Joining us for dinner the first night were Bobby and Heather who were celebrating his 40th birthday.

“I love fine dining,'' Bobby said, “but this is as good as I've tasted anywhere.''

Every second night there is a formal dinner. The tables are set with candles, fine china bearing the crest of The Royal Scotsman, sparkling crystal and linen serviettes tied with silk bows.

For these occasions, which recreate the glamour of the past, guests dress in dinner suits.

Those on-board with a Highland heritage make an entrance in a kilt. Women dress elegantly in evening wear or designer gowns. Even the table staff have special uniforms.