'Half the world' in a single day

Long ago, someone cruelly remarked that Esfahan would be the best place in the world if you took the Esfahanis out of it.

This jibe stuck on and when I was about to board the luxury coach from Tehran to the fabled city, an acquaintance repeated another version of the aforesaid. I am pleased to report that I found the allegation to be totally unfounded.

The 19th century writer, Edward Browne, in his book, A Year Amongst the Persians, notes: "... it is commonly said of anyone who is careful of his expenditure that he is 'as mean as the merchants of Esfahan, who put their cheese in a bottle and rub their bread on the outside to give it flavour'."

Well, Browne, of course, did not meet the owner of Nomad Carpets at the grand Imam Square.

Squarely beautiful

When I sought directions to the nearest internet kiosk, this merchant told me that there was not any in the vicinity and
requested me to use his personal computer for as long as I wished and, when I was at it, served a cup of tea. All this,
without even hinting that I check out the carpets in his store.

Having established the inherent goodness of the people of Esfahan, I set about exploring the most important place in the city.

It is not difficult to see why the Maidan-e-Imam, or Imam Square, is a UN World Heritage site. Built in 1612, it is
half a kilometre in length and 160m in breadth. It is said it is the second biggest public square in the world after
Beijing's Tiananmen.

Unfortunately, I had only one day to sample Esfahan. So I decided to spend most of it in and around the Imam Square area.

The entire complex is so huge, and full of activity, it looks like a mini city in itself. Indeed, it was the grandeur of the Imam Square that inspired the famous 16th-century half-rhyme Esfahan nafs-e-jahan (Esfahan is half the world).

At the square, minus the ubiquitous, dreary Paykan cars and the telephone booths that litter the area, you get a sense of having stepped back in time.

The scene could not have been much different during the days of the mighty Shah Abbas (1587-1629), who built
it.

I sat there imagining Shah Abbas, in all his imperial glory, being driven in a horse-drawn chariot across the square,
surrounded by his minions.

While there are no horse-drawn chariots now, you can still get a ride on a pony-drawn cart around the square for a pittance.

It is a good way to start exploring. The most striking building in the square has to be the Masjid-e-Imam (Imam Mosque) at
the southern end. It is, simply, one of the most beautiful mosques in the Muslim world. It took Shah Abbas a quarter of a century to build it. It is layered with intricate blue tiles, both on the outside and inside.

This is from where, I suspect, the tile work on the Iranian buildings here in Dubai is inspired. At the northern end, in theopposite direction, is Esfahan's famous Bazaar-e-Bozourg.

Fascinating markets

Set aside half a day to stroll in this most authentic of Middle Eastern bazaars. The narrow, cobbled pathways lead into each other and the best of all things Persian - carpets, handicrafts, ornaments - are here in abundance. Remember to carry cash, as most shopkeepers here do not accept credit cards.

As you wander around in the bazaar, you will also come across picturesque courtyards.

Esfahan is known for its unique chaikhanas (tea-houses). Before entering the bazaar, on your left, you can see a small sign in English: Gheisareih Chaikhana. Walk up the narrow, handsomely carpeted stairs.

You can either sit inside the well-decorated main room or take a table in the balcony and enjoy the magnificent view of the entire square over a pot of hot green tea and apple flavoured sheesha - for less than Dh8.

For lunch, you can stop by eateries within the bazaar and munch on Iran's most popular dish - chelo kabab. This consists of succulent kababs with reddened onions and baked tomatoes and saffron rice, with a dollop on butter on top.

On the eastern side of the square stands the Shaikh Lotfallah mosque. Though nowhere as grand as the Imam mosque, this is still a good example of Safavid architecture.

Opposite that, on the western side, stands the Ali Gapu palace.

In its heyday, it served as the seat of government. The palace is most remarkable for its mosaics and the tile work on the stairs.

Centuries ago, the royal household used its huge
pavilion to watch the goings-on in the square.

Esfahan

From the UAE

Iran Air flies to Esfahan from Dubai two times a week. Etihad flies to Esfahan via Tehran from Abu Dhabi.

But if you are travelling from Tehran, you can either take any of the cheap and numerous daily domestic flights from Tehran or luxury buses that leave every hour (about Dh12; six hours one way).

The Seir-o-Safar bus company is a good option. You can buy the tickets at the main bus station.

How much

Iran Air fare: Dh450 exclusive of taxes.

Etihad fare: Dh560 exclusive of taxes.

- Information courtesy: Al Tayer Travel Agency

Information