Fang-tastic Romania

Now my husband was showing me the surrounding forests, which seemed a world away from the bustling city, even though it was only an hour’s walk back to the centre.

Growing up, I have to admit, it was the clichés that sprung to mind whenever I heard about Romania – orphans and poverty after the collapse of communism; or grey, soulless tower blocks and, of course, the man himself, with his slicked-back hair, fangs and sweeping cloak.

But as we walked along through the trees bursting in all their spring glory, nothing could have been further from the truth. There was nothing soulless about this incredible, untouched landscape with its pure, natural beauty.

Hills would occasionally give way to flat areas of land. The air smelt of woodsmoke – I wasn’t sure whether from nearby houses or people making small forest fires, and I couldn’t help but inhale deeply all the same.

Transylvania translates simply as, “beyond the forest”. It is an area bounded on the east and south by the Carpathian mountains. This mountain range, which forms an arc of around 1,500km across central and eastern Europe, is a source of mineral water and boasts thermal spas for tourists as well as brown bears, wolves and chamois. And there I was fretting over a mythical character!

We’d been hiking from early morning with a leisurely picnic lunch along the way and despite this being a haven for walkers, we barely saw a soul all day; so dense and large was the forest. It was almost 6pm and so we decided to head back to the city before it got any later. “Did you know this forest is largely unprotected?” my husband said, as we walked over moss and fallen branches. He explained it was already under threat from logging and deforestation. “Prince Charles was recently campaigning to ensure the forests are protected for future generations,” he added.

“What a shame if they were to be wiped out,” I replied.

But it was still Transylvania’s most famous – or rather infamous – resident who fascinated me most. The Count Dracula myth was made famous worldwide by author Bram Stoker in 1897 with his novel Dracula. It was based on the ancient Transylvanian belief in vampires, although, as I learnt, the Dracula character is actually based on a historical figure called Vlad Tepes. Born in 1431, he was the bloodthirsty Prince of Wallachia, a region of Romania, who was known across the land for viciously impaling his enemies; and myths of blood-drinking abounded. This is thought to have led to the literary idea of Stoker’s that a stake should be driven through a vampire’s heart to defeat them. I’d read Bram Stoker’s Dracula, seen the film of the same name, as well as the old Hammer Horror films and Interview with a Vampire. But being where it all began felt extra special.

As we walked from room to room (60 in total) I half expected a vampire to jump out from behind a creaking door. But thankfully none did.

“So you see,” my husband said, “it’s all myth... Well, mostly.” He thought it was funny that the Dracula myth has always been something tourists and foreigners fell for, not locals.

And now suddenly, with a bit of historical perspective and realising that the bloodthirsty stories were conjured up to terrify Vlad Tepes’s enemies, Dracula didn’t seem so frightening after all. Now I could relax, and back in Cluj I could enjoy what the city had to offer. A university city, there is a vibrant nightlife scene, but plenty to see and do in the daytime too. You can choose from cool cafés where the young and hip hang out, to ancient, rustic hide outs such as Etno – where archaic Transylvanian farming artefacts such as old plough parts and hand-held devices for reaping crops hang from the walls. 

But for the gourmands among you, Hubertus Restaurant is the place both to dine and be seen. Specialising in Spanish and Romanian food, the restaurant has a vast menu of delicious fare to choose from. The atmosphere is highbrow but warm, with impeccably polite staff.

It was lovely strolling along in the sun to one of the most famous landmarks of Cluj-Napoca, Saint Michael’s Church. The Gothic towered building is said to be one of the most beautiful pieces of architecture in Romania and was built in the 14th century. Inside, vast, gaping Gothic arches tower above you and it is impossible not to get a crick in your neck from simply gazing upwards. Some walls even have remains of ancient frescos that have been preserved and stood the test of time.