Darwin’s distant country

Sea lions are everywhere: scratching bellies on the jetty, lounging on benches and even romping along the main road of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, capital of Galápagos province, where I’ve just arrived from Quito.

I spent several nights in that high-flung Ecuadorian city, staying at the superb Casa Gangotena (www.casagangotena.com), a cosy boutique hotel near the city’s historical centre. At 2,800 metres above sea level, Quito is the highest city in the world and I was worried about suffering from altitude sickness, but apart from slight breathing difficulties, I was fine. A two-hour flight later, I’m on the Galápagos Islands – 19 Unesco-classed islands formed by volcanic activity 1,000 kilometres from the Ecuadorian coast. The archipelago is extremely isolated, which is why a huge variety of endemic species, ranging from dog-sized land iguanas, to immense tortoises and rare birds, come here to breed in peace – little wonder that Charles Darwin spawned his theory of natural selection while visiting these fascinating islands.

Leaving the low, brightly painted houses, colourful cafés and potholed streets of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, I climb aboard a dinghy, which chugs past pelicans perched aboard fishing boats and out to La Pinta, the luxurious cruise yacht that will be my home for the next four days.

After a welcome drink, we head for the spacious lecture theatre where we learn how the islands were discovered in the 16th century, and then became a lair for pirates who preyed on passing galleons. We also learn more about Darwin’s theory – which says that only animals that are best adapted to their environment survive.

Our guide tells us about the remotest and oldest of the islands, Española, where endemic species include tortoises and mocking birds. During the hour-long talk we hear about the flightless cormorants of Fernandina and the island of Pinta, home of Lonesome George, the world’s last Pinta tortoise, who died in 2012 at the age of 100 to much public mourning in Ecuador and around the globe. By the time I make my way back to my cabin I’m almost too excited to sleep.

That night our yacht travels to the tip of San Cristóbal and I wake the next morning to views of a craggy lunar landscape that can’t have changed much since Darwin came here. This is where he first encountered some of the archipelago’s tortoises and lizards and noted in his diary: “Met an immense Turpin; took little notice of me.”

I head out on deck and admire the island from a shaded spot as I enjoy a copious buffet breakfast of fresh juices, cereals and cooked-to-order omelettes. An hour later our group meets outside La Pinta’s muster station to struggle into lifejackets, then head out in our small panga boat to Punta Pitt. It is baking hot as we climb to the top of this emblematic chunk of volcanic rock, but the narrow path en route is dotted with blue- and red- footed boobies, their feet as vivid as wax crayons. Right at the top we find the nest of a rare Nazca booby, with a single chick, like a puppy-sized ball of cotton wool, inside. Later that day we get closer still to the local wildlife as we snorkel with a 60-plus colony of sea lions, who dart up and around us, occasionally taking a cheeky nip at our wayward flippers.

Tuckered out from the day’s activities, we return to our yacht and plunder the sapid array of pre-dinner snacks laid out on deck, before taking turns plunging into the ship’s al fresco hot tub. Back in my cosy cabin I dress for dinner at the captain’s table. The captain entertains us with tales of life at sea as we enjoy tender strips of smoked turkey in a creamy pepper sauce, a scrumptious baked fish with a selection of vegetables, followed by a well-stocked tray of desserts.

Over the following days I slip into a rhythm: up early to visit iconic landmarks like the striking natural lava cone formation of Kicker Rock, or the stunning coral beach of Cerro Brujo. Afternoons photographing brilliant turquoise-and-red rock iguanas and gregarious Hood mockingbirds at Punta Suarez, or weaving between noisy bull sea lions on the sheer white coral sand beaches of Gardner Bay.

It strikes me that a luxury yacht cruise is an ideal way to discover these astonishing islands. Arriving under cover of darkness, we moor in the lee of an atoll and enjoy a blissful, wave-free night, then set out to explore with our versatile small panga boats the following morning. Evenings we return to our stylish yacht for fascinating lectures on local flora and fauna given by our guides, then tuck into a delicious dinner in the stateroom before collapsing exhausted in our cabins.

On our final day of our four-day tour we visit the Charles Darwin research station. This captivating centre on Santa Cruz Island is home to the Galápagos Islands’ iconic giant tortoises. We wander around the breeding pens, seeing the baby tortoises that will be released back on to one of the Galápagos islands when they are big enough to be able to survive. Then we come face-to-face with some of those legendary Galápagos Giants. With their long necks and shells the size of small bathtubs they are a fitting symbol for this intriguing group of islands, which has hardly changed since the dinosaurs roamed the earth. Meeting these living legends “in the flesh” is also the perfect culmination to our tour of one of the most fascinating groups of islands on earth.

Breathtaking Alaska

The chance to sail alongside gambolling orcas, watch bears forage for food or kayak along the pristine coastline is just part of the thrill of National Geographic’s eight-day Exploring Alaska’s Coastal Wilderness tour.



Cruising in expedition ships that are able to sail through the narrowest channels, you will explore glaciers, hike out to watch wildlife and will even have a chance to see unique underwater footage of the fauna in the cold waters of this fascinating region.

Find out more: www.expeditions.com.

Stunning Norway

Sailing through a constantly changing scenery of ice peaks, fjords and mighty glaciers, this small ship cruise is an exciting trip to meet polar bears, seals, puffins and other wildlife.

Further north in the region of pack ice, you’ll have the chance to spot pink-footed geese, kittiwakes and more.

Find out more: www.responsibletravel.com.

Astounding Amazon

This enthralling stretch of river extending towards Peru is only accessible by smaller boats. Gliding along the river you’ll see pink dolphins and rare eagles, whilst forays into the lush undergrowth will be rewarded with sightings of monkeys and other wildlife. One of the region’s most eco-friendly companies, Aqua Expedition’s beautifully fitted ships have luxurious staterooms and restaurants serving carefully prepared local specialities.

Find out more: www.aquaexpeditions.com.