My visit to Visakhapatnam had long been overdue. I had been to Vizag as this district in the south Indian state of Andhra Pradesh is called, during my college days. A friend who had been my neighbour when I worked in Qatar had invited us to visit his hometown.
Many summers have come and gone, and along with them the vacations (which always seem short), but we could never squeeze this place on our itinerary for more than a decade. This time we made it happen.
Vizag is known for its beautiful beaches, verdurous hills and mountains, the Araku Valley and its tribals, centuries-old Borra Caves, temples and Buddhist sites. I was particularly interested in visiting the Buddhist sites, but since my family was visiting for the first time, we managed to visit the rest of the places, too.
A long-time favourite
Though a visit to Bojjannakonda in Anakapalle was top on my list, it did not happen until the last day of my stay. We left early in the morning for Annavaram Temple in the neighbouring district of East Godavari and decided to stop at the Buddhist site on our way back.
We left Annavaram around 10am. The weather was fine, with a hint of clouds. Halfway through we stopped for lunch. We then left for Sankharam village, about 40 kilometres to the south of Visakhapatnam, where Bojjannakonda is located. The nearest railway station Anakapalle is four km away from this historic place. From there it is 15 minutes by road.
Bojjannakonda is a corrupt form of "Buddha kondalu" (kondalu means hills in Telugu, the native language). The name of the village is derived from Sangharama, which means "Buddhist monastery".
Heritage spot
Bojjannakonda is a 2,000-year-old heritage spot. Buddhism spread to Andhra Pradesh as early as the 2nd and 3rd centuries BC. Various stupas and other Buddhist sites came into existence during this period at Amaravati, Thotlakonda, Bavikonda, Nagarjunakonda and other places in the state. Many of these sites came up in agriculturally fertile terrain. Such sites also sprang up near the major ports of ancient times and along rivers.
Bojjannakonda, too, lies amid a vast stretch of lush green agricultural land against a backdrop of dark mountains.It is famous for several stupas, rock-cut caves and brick-built edifices. The main stupa was initially carved out of rock and then covered with bricks. There are many images of the Buddha carved in the rock face of the caves in various postures.
Nearby is Lingalametta, or Linagalakonda, with hundreds of rock-cut monolithic stupas in rows, spread across the hill.
Cave carved from a single rock
Among other Buddhist attractions here are the relic casket, chaitya halls, platforms, stupas and sculptures. The main attractions are a cave carved from a single rock, with four pillars and Buddha statues and another with nine pillars. There are troughs outside built by cutting the rocks for storage of water.
But, sadly, most of the statutes, stupas and other structures stand exposed to elements. Though the Archaeological Department is maintaining the heritage site, more needs to be done as Buddhist tourists from Sri Lanka, Nepal and other countries often visit this place.
We spent more than two hours admiring the place and wondering how the monks could have hewn such masterpieces in rock with the limited tools at their disposal.
Soon, the clouds started gather thick and dark and then it was drizzling, adding to the beauty of the stone structures glistened by the shower. The rock troughs slowly started gathering rainwater. Slowly, we started climbing down the hillock, watching our step on the rain-soaked pathway.
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— Information courtesy the Holiday Lounge by Dnata. Ph: 04 3492886
Visakhapatnam is well connected by land, air and rail routes. Best way to get there is either by train or plane from Hyderabad. Most trains running on the east coast pass through Vizag. Garib Rath from Hyderabad is the option as you get the comfort of travel in AC coaches at an affordable price. The more adventurous can hit the road on National Highway 5.
