Doxa is among a clutch of Swiss watch companies that have had a cult-like following among diving watch enthusiasts. Known for their characteristic bright orange dials, Doxa’s pioneering Sub concept would first plumb the ocean depths in 1967 as a dive watch purpose-built for the emerging recreational scuba diving market. Reliable, efficient, and affordable, the Sub 300T Conquistador in 1969 was the first watch with a helium release valve used in professional diver’s watches, even before the Rolex Submariner Sea-Dweller.
Doxa has enjoyed a bit of a renaissance in the last few years under new management. Much of the conversation around their return has been around the Sub 300 models. However, at Baselworld 2019, Doxa celebrated its 130th anniversary by reviving the Sub 200 diver. This year Doxa brings back the big, bold diver’s chronograph with the introduction of the new Sub 200 C-Graph.
In terms of size, the latest from Doxa goes against the prevailing zeitgeist that prefers 40 mm (case width) or thereabouts for a vintage-inspired diver’s watch. The stainless steel case of the Sub 200 C-Graph is an imposing 45 mm wide in width. Fitted with narrow lugs, the case is 17.4-mm-thick and as the name suggests, is depth-rated to 200 metres.
It is fitted with a domed sapphire crystal framed by a uni-directional bezel that has a sapphire crystal insert. The Sub 200 C Graph is offered in six colourways. So apart from the characteristic orange (Professional), the watch is also available in Silver (Searambler), Black (Sharkhunter), Navy (Caribbean), Yellow (Divingstar), and Turquoise (Aquamarine).
A self-winding Selita SW501 chronograph movement serves as the beating heart of this watch. The watch is paired with a rice-of-beads bracelet fastened by a deployant clasp featuring a diver’s extension, it is also available on a rubber strap that matches the colour of the dial. This chronograph will retail at 2,690 Swiss Francs on the steel bracelet and 2,650 Swiss Francs with a rubber strap and is available to buy on the Doxa website.