Spirit of Diwali shines even amid economic uncertainty

Home to more than a million Indian expatriates (approximately 40 per cent of the total population), Diwali is celebrated throughout the UAE with its own simple charm and vibrant flair.

Lights hang outside homes and building balconies where Indians reside, as colourful rangoli designs invitingly welcome guests inside the house.

The most famous Indian celebration, Diwali is similar in spirit and magnitude to both Eid and Christmas.

It's a time to offer prayers, an occasion to wear new clothes, get together with loved ones, exchange gifts, share splendid meals and — in India at least — end the celebration by bursting firecrackers.

Business is ripe with excitement palpable in markets and malls.

Shopping

Shops across the city stock up on endless supplies of diyas (earthen lamps), sparklers, candles and Diwali accessories.

From clothes and flowers to jewellery and sweets, it's a busy time for traders and shoppers alike. But has the recent economic turmoil laid a damper on spending power this Diwali?

"The spirit of Diwali is greater than the fears of economic meltdown. The celebrations I have planned this year are the same as every year," says Simi Sudhalman, a training support officer, Emirates. Echoing Sudhalman's sentiment, Chetna Pandita, a Dubai-based marketing and communications executive, adds, "I still celebrate the festival in the same manner as I have, always, so recession or no recession, Diwali is celebrated in a grand manner."

Gold

Buying valuable items such as gold and silver is encouraged among the Indian community especially during Diwali. It is considered auspicious and seen as an investment with Dhanteras — two days before Diwali — dedicated to the purchase of precious metals. "Diwali is a five-day festival which begins with Dhanteras," explains Jyoti Thakur, a tutor. "On this day we buy gold or any metal, because it is believed that it brings prosperity to the house."

This cultural programming can trace its roots to the hefty Diwali bonus employees always receive back home. A flush bank balance accounts for blissful shopping.

Something new

"Gold is an investment, it will not go waste," explains Ashwina Daryanani, a hairstylist. In Dubai, expatriate Indians save months in advance for this day. "At Diwali, you tend to buy something you have been saving for," says Kirat Sabharwal, special projects manager at Nicholas Publishing International. Apart from gold jewellery, she and her husband will buy something new for their home.

"Diwali is generally the time when you stop thinking of budgets and expenses," Sabharwal, continues. "We never let this topic creep in and affect our Diwali spirit and the mood of giving, gifting and spending."

"Joy has no economic meltdown," says Savitha Shetty, relationship manager, New Age Insurance Brokers.

Quintessentially a Hindu religious festival, Diwali has become an intrinsic part of the cultural identity of the Indian diaspora. It celebrates the victory of good over evil and is popularly called the festival of lights. The word "diwali" is derived from "deepavali", which means "row of lamps". During this occasion "deeps" or "diyas" are filled with oil and lit up in the hope of inviting wealth and prosperity into the house.

Time to be together

"I love Diwali for its splendour created by the lights, diyas and crackers," says homemaker Chhabi Sahai. "Diwali brings about happiness by getting people together."

"To us as a family it's a time to rejoice in the abundance life has given us and share it with one and all," Shetty says.

Preparations for the festival start several days in advance with vigorous spring cleaning. A clean, clutter-free environment facilitates the flow of positive energies into the house. "All the cupboards are taken out and we make sure there is not a single bit of dirt left around," Pandita says. "It's a celebration we wait for all year long."

Families also spend considerably on hosting lavish dinner parties as Diwali celebrations inevitably centre around food. Chocolates, sweets, dry fruits and an array of mouth-watering delicacies are prepared exclusively for this festive occasion. "With Diwali, the hogging sessions start. We go to friends to wish them and come home to a sumptuous Diwali lunch and then in the evening after prayers, there is more food and more sweets," says Savitha, whose family makes a traditional medicine at home (with ginger, jaggery and ghee) to tackle tummyaches caused by excessive eating. The entire Shetty family takes it first thing on Diwali morning.

While an assortment of delectable Indian sweets is always served during Diwali, the main course differs in each home. "We are from Delhi and no special day is complete without butter chicken, biryani and dal makhni," Sabharwal says. Daryanani, on the other hand, goes vegetarian for the day. "We have this tradition of making a special dish in our family, with just seven green vegetables. We don't eat meat on Diwali — we don't even bring it into the house."

Cross culture

As an Indian Muslim married to a Hindu, I played host to my very first Diwali party in Dubai when I was in my last trimester — seventh month if I remember right. We had moved to a new house and I felt capable enough to cook an entire festive meal. So I called some friends home for Diwali dinner.

The culinary preparations began with several nervous phone calls to my mother, which involved clarifying how brown the onions should get before ginger-garlic paste is added. After minute monitoring, biryani and khade masale ka gosht were ready, and we bought some naans and kababs from a local restaurant.

Our guests arrived and by way of conversation I animatedly described my first telephonic cooking experience. Suddenly I got this overwhelming feeling like I was delivering a monologue to an empty theatre. There was silence, bewildered expressions and then, very hesitatingly, my friends informed me that though they are generally non-vegetarians, they would never think of eating meat on Diwali day.

Apart from this social faux pas, Diwali holds special significance for me. It is organic to my cultural identity as an Indian. Yes, I am pre-programmed, perhaps even biased, towards Eid. I start clothes-shopping for the children at the start of Ramadan and with Diwali it's always a last-minute dash to the market. But there's something so special about the festival of lights.

Emotional

The day begins on an emotional chord as we call and wish family back home and promise that next year we will be home for Diwali. Between visiting friends and offering prayers, it's almost evening and now the excitement is palpable. Everyone wants to get ready first, but the diyas must be lit and decorated throughout the house as the sun sets.

There's constant pressure from the phone, which keeps on ringing as some tray of sweets invariably needs replenishing. Then we drape our saris and dupattas, clasp on a gorgeous piece of jewellery (perhaps a family heirloom) and head off to attend a Diwali party. And as we wrap our arms around our family and friends we give thanks for their presence in our lives and wish them a "Happy Diwali".

Diwali celebrates the triumph of good over evil

The legend goes something like this, after a long, arduous 14 year-exile, a valiant king defeats the demon-king and returns home to his people. His victorious arrival is celebrated by decorating the entire city with brightly burning clay lamps and flowers as jubilant villagers burst firecrackers to herald their beloved king's return. It's the ultimate homecoming.

On Diwali, loved ones meet over meals and prayer and revel in the festive spirit. But some Dubai residents will spend this day away from home.

"In India, I had my own salon and I would close it on Diwali," says hairstylist Ashwina Daryanani. "Here I can't do that. But I do plan to try and leave early." Originally from Kolkata, Daryanani misses eating "rosogullas" (sweet) tremendously. "They don't taste the same here," she says, adding "in Kolkata, the smell and feel of the atmosphere is charged with excitement when Diwali is around the corner. Here, all it feels like is that I have to work. I feel a little isolated. It takes time to adjust, especially on a special occasion."

"Since I am not home, it's almost like I am not celebrating Diwali", says Kamal Bhattarai, a Nepalese domestic helper who just arrived in Dubai. Emotionally acclimatised to spending this festive occasion on his own (he has been working in India for the past six years) Bhattarai gets emotional when asked what he will miss about Diwali.

"I will miss my little sister the most. She would do this special "tika" for me on Bhai Duuj (sisters pray for their brother's health and happiness by applying vermillion on their forehead) two days after Diwali and then I would give her a small gift, whatever I can afford. I miss that. I will phone and wish everyone at home."

Bimla Lama has made her calls to Nepal. Also working as a domestic helper, Lama has already arranged for her husband to buy their three children new clothes for Diwali. "I will pray for their safety and well being on Diwali. But I must earn for them and that's why I am here." She says she will miss the dancing and singing that takes place in her house every Diwali night the most.

Keen to buy a car this auspicious season, artist Neena Rai is also alone in Dubai but plans to party with her friends to fill the void.

"This is not the time to be without family. I will miss them, especially my grandmothers. Back home, I remember, they would make sweets for us and local delicacies. I do not know how to make them and miss it terribly. I also miss bursting crackers; I used to revel in this activity. Unfortunately, we do not have the privilege to do the same here."

First without family 

"It's my first time here without my family and I will miss them", says Prashanth Suvarna, sales manager. "I don't know what to say; on Diwali I might shed a few tears. Probably wonder why I could not convince my boss for an exceptional leave sanction. I will miss my wife the most."

While Rai has decided to throw a party for her friends to kill the blues, Suvarna will celebrate Diwali in his office and visit the local Mangalorean association to exchange greetings. Daryanani plans to slip off early and perhaps attend a Diwali ball.

Thirty-three years ago when Ravi and Chhaya Khattar arrived in Dubai in 1978 to set up their steel trading business, the dirham was referred to as rupiah — such was the clout of the Indian community — but Diwali essentials were hard to come by.

"In order to make Diwali an authentic experience for our kids, I remember we did all our shopping back home," Chhaya remembers. "Nothing was available here, no rangoli or diyas, so we carried heavy suitcases stuffed with these items."

Dedicated Indian shops

The discomfort was short-lived. By the 1980s, dedicated Indian shops such as Al Adil, Krishna's and Choithram started brisk business, stocking Diwali essentials.

"All the stuff required to celebrate Diwali was easily available in the market, except crackers," says homemaker Chhabi Sahai, a resident of this city for 27 years.

Shopping back then had its own small-world charm. "During Diwali shopping the most prominent thing I remember is you ended up meeting everyone you knew in the gold souq — the old gold souq that is," Chhaya recalls nostalgically. "The Indian crowd here was small and everyone knew everyone." Ravi continues, "The whole of Bur Dubai used to be completely decked up, even though sparklers were banned. Every Indian house displayed electric lights outside."

"Diwali has always been very short-lived here; it comes for a day and goes," Chhabi Sahai , a Dubai resident for 28 years, regrets. "In India Diwali lasts for more than ten days — the thrill, the shopping, the hearty arrangements at home, it cannot be expressed in a few words. Nothing much could be done about tiding over that feeling of missing the true essence of Diwali."

Festive days

Festive days ring hollow without support from friends and family. "I was alone with my husband when I came to this city," recalls Jyoti Thakur, a tutor who has been in Dubai for 23 years. "But I always enjoyed celebrating Diwali here, as my family used to fly down during the festive season. I also remember we tried to make new friends as this played a huge role in making this celebration a success."

As with many festive occasions, earlier Diwali in the UAE was simpler, as were perhaps the candles available then, Chhaya points out. But as the years passed, the old order changed. "Initially I used to make home-made food, sweetmeats and savouries and distribute these to my friends, but over the years that has stopped," Chhaya says. "Everyone is watching their weight and there is such a wide variety of stuff available, we don't need to prepare things at home. There are boxes of chocolates from Cadbury's and Patchi and even Bateel makes something special for Diwali I think and, let's face it, everybody wants to do something new and modern."

As decorations got fancier and catering outlets increased, Ravi remembers initially there were only three places that catered food — Astoria, Kwality and Golden Dragon. Indians in Dubai changed how they preferred to party. "The way in which Diwali is celebrated now has changed.

Earlier, people celebrated this festival in a sober, quiet manner, but now they have an open house during the Diwali period, where anyone and everyone is invited, there is a large spread of delicacies and sweets and lots of dance and music," Thakur informs us.

Partying

"What I don't like is sometimes one overdoses on the partying now," Ravi admits. "Back in those days we would go to one party. Now there are so many invites and overlaps, one does have to decline some. Also, the distances too play a role in declining invitations."

Chhaya, however, feels the open house concept is positive.

"I like the concept of an open house — it's a new trend and more convenient because you are not forced to stay on in one place. You can visit two-three friends in one evening and catch up with a lot more people. There are some friends one meets only during Diwali and I really look forward to catching up with them."