Things are looking very exciting for Italian fashion house Marni —which means that things are looking exciting for fashion in general. Not only is the label, known for its colourful, feminine looks and playful mixing, expanding its number of stores around the world — with a flagship in Dubai's Mall of the Emirates just opened — it's also the latest fashion brand to associate with high street retailer H&M.
Designer Consuelo Castiglioni, the woman who made wearing socks with heels acceptable again, told tabloid! during a visit to Dubai recently that she is excited by the prospect of bringing her high-end designs to a different audience when the collection debuts on March 8. The film campaign has been directed by Oscar-winner Sofia Coppola.
"I think it was a great opportunity for us to reach different clients and a younger generation," she said in her strong Italian accent. "I think it's a very good thing for us."
The 40-piece womenswear collection will have 20 accessories items, and will be accompanied by a 20-piece menswear collection (there are 10 men's accessories). Marni accessories are especially sought after by the fashion pack this winter, with her colourful, mixed material necklaces and earrings being must-have accessories to even the simplest outfit (actress Freida Pinto had a winning look, teaming Marni shoes and a necklace with a white Calvin Klein dress in Hollywood recently).
Despite her giggly demeanour, Castiglioni admits she's feeling the pressure, after the success of recent H&M high-end collaborations that saw items flying off the shelves (Versace's sold out in 30 minutes around the world last November), and is tight-lipped over what the pieces are actually like. "I am not allowed. I cannot tell you! But anyway it's going to be a Marni wardrobe," she said, glancing at her husband and business partner Gianni, who sat nearby.
"Of course I looked at the other collections. But everyone has their own thing. I think this is a nice wardrobe. It was a challenge." There was no brief from H&M except to make the collection tight. "They told me 40 pieces, that's it, do what you want. But really 40 pieces!"
Excerpts from the interview:
You've been opening stores all over the world — Beijing, New York and now Dubai. Anything different in our store?
In New York City, it's an Edition shop, [showcasing] another collection that's a little bit girlish and younger. At the Meatpacking [district in NYC] we found this location that's very nice. Dubai has that collection too.
What makes Edition different?
It's in the materials — you can wear it from the morning until the night. I wouldn't say it's easier. [Gianni interjects: "yes, easier, why not?"].
You're known not only for prints, but also for mixing them with abandon. Can we all wear them?
I think everyone has to wear what she really feels. We don't want to really impose anything. But don't be afraid to wear prints. We do a lot of research into the prints and I think it's something special that adds to your wardrobe.
What kind of research?
My inspiration is everything. Life itself. You go in an exhibition, look in a book, someone walking in the street. We do a lot of research into prints and finishing to make our own different ones. In Italy we are lucky that we have many suppliers and we try many different things together to get something different than what you find in a [trade] fair.
Where do you fit in the sexy-minimalist scene of Italian fashion? You're a long way from Dolce&Gabbana and Armani.
Well, I'm Italian, and Italian fashion is quality. Yes, maybe we are different, because we do more colour and we like to experiment and do a strange combination of colours and fabrics - maybe lurex with a cashmere knit - that makes the difference from the other brands. Maybe the big difference is I do what I like, what I want to wear, and I follow what I really want. As a woman I know what we want to wear, so maybe that's easier.
You've said menswear is tamer. How do you put your Marni aesthetic into that?
The approach is the same, but of course a man is a little bit quieter compared to the women's world. For men, the details are even more important than for womenswear. The philosophy is the same: it's just to do clothes that a man can really wear, not for a picture or a show, but thinking about a real man — would you like to see a man walking on the street like this? Yes — but always with a little touch of something — some prints of course — a little twist different.
What are the top picks in the Dubai store?
I think there are so many different things that you can wear for different occasions. You can mix things in a different way. We have of course our lookbook, but we don't want to impose. I prefer a woman wears what she really feels at ease in and does her look for herself. I think the Marni woman has a great personality and she knows what she wants. These are clothes that you fall in love in. Well, I think so! There are people who are not really into colours and prints but little by little, they appreciate it.
