Bust the myths: Beauty treatments

You've heard it so many times and from so many people:

Wash your face five times a day and you will never suffer from acne or pimples.

Pluck a grey hair and you are sure to discover more the next day.

When it comes to cosmetics, it's best to stick to one brand...

Is there even a grain of truth in this advice?

Every generation grows up grappling with its share of myths on everything from grey hair to the Grand Canyon's true dimensions. In the area of body and skincare, some of these myths have attained near-epic proportions while others are mere upstarts but both kinds are secretly begging to be busted. Friday tackles 20 of the most common beauty dilemmas.

Tweezing eyebrows diminishes their growth. True or false? True.

Over a period of time, frequent tweezing can damage hair follicles and stop hair from growing. Eyebrow hair follicles are relatively prone to damage (as compared to scalp follicles) and repeated tweezing can cause enough damage to them and prevent hair from growing back. Tweezing isn't so great an idea unless you want to change the basic shape of your brows, says Mona Mirza, medical director, Biolite Medical Clinic, Dubai.

‘Beauty sleep’ is a myth. True or false? False.

Dr Mimi Gyergyak, Derma Therapist and Creator of Bio-Pacific skincare products, explains: "The term ‘beauty sleep' perhaps originated after people who had the luxury of having a few extra winks were found to be looking better when they woke up.

"No beauty treatment can ever replace a good night's sleep. When we sleep, the body begins to recharge its energy levels. All organs, including the skin, benefit from this. We need eight quality hours of sleep... Clear signs of deprivation of this ‘thing of beauty'? Puffy eyes, dark under-eye circles and dull, lacklustre skin."

Split ends can be repaired. True or false? False.

Dubai-based hairstylist Maria Dowling says: "Once you have a few split ends, your hair is ripped apart for good. The tear could be an inch or as much as four inches upwards on the hair strand. You can use products like serums to temporarily bind and make it ‘look' better. But the only way to totally get rid of it is to cut it off. Split ends can be caused by overbrushing the hair or styling tools either incorrectly or too frequently. Long and mid-length hair is more likely to develop split ends due the friction caused by the hair rubbing against clothes and shoulders."

A shiny T-zone means oily skin. True or false? True.

David Alexander, brand manager, Clinique International (Middle East and India), says: "This type of skin [T-zone] is called combination skin. It is oily in the T-zone but comfortable or dry on the rest of the face. This is due to excess sebum production in that area. An appropriate skincare regimen can help balance and remove the excess oil. Using quality products ensures that the natural oils are not stripped off."

If you have oily skin, it will always remain that way. True or false? False.

Celebrity facialist to Hollywood stars Deborah Mitchell says: "Oily skin can change its type. The one good thing about having this kind of skin is that its natural oils nurture it and delay the onset of wrinkles. This is why you may not find as many fine lines showing up on people with oily skin. You need to ‘preserve' these oils and not let them get out of control. Your skin automatically controls the oiliness when you apply oil topically. But this takes an approximate period of three to five weeks. Oily skin tends to be thirsty and needs water, not oil. If there isn't enough moisture in the skin, it can actually look very dehydrated. Also, if oily skin is not cleansed every six hours, it will develop blackheads. In that case, do not use an oil-free face wash. Go for an oil-based cleanser instead."

Women are more prone to skin problems than men. True or false? False.

Sisley's International Trainer, Francoise Kaden explains why: "Men and women's skin function the same way. The skin could be dry, oily, combination, dehydrated or sensitive.

For both genders, 30 per cent of our ageing process is triggered by hormonal issues and 70 per cent are caused by external factors - UV rays, pollution, artificial light, air conditioning, tobacco, stress, lack of sleep and poor hygiene. Hormonal changes during puberty, pregnancy, menopause and andropause among men induce blemishes, sensitivity and drastic skin changes." So it's very likely that both may have similar skin issues.

Oily skin doesn’t require moisturising. True or false? False.

Sally Hewerdine, general manager, Shima Beauty Lounge and Lily Pond Massage and Retreat outlet in Dubai says, "Oily skin produces more sebum than normal skin. Sebum is natural oil produced by the sebaceous glands in the skin. Unfortunately, this is not enough in today's environment and we need to protect our skin from the sun, smog and dust that surrounds us. For clients with oily skin we recommend that they use matt-finish moisturisers as these have the advantages of protecting the skin without making it greasy."

Nails are a reflection of your general state of health. True or false? True

Shabana Karim, director, The Nail Spa says, "Nails are indeed a barometer of one's inner health. Their condition and colour can indicate serious diseases. For example, nails that split easily are a sign of poor nutrition. Pale nails can indicate anaemia, while psoriasis causes pitting. Indentations and ridges can be caused by serious illness or fever. Fungus can turn nails yellow, grey, brown or black. Heart, kidney, liver and lung problems and diabetes can also cause discoloration of nails as well as nail malformations. If your nails show any abnormality in surface, texture or colour, a visit to a doctor or dermatologist is a must."

Sensitive skin is a genetic condition. True or false? False

David Alexander, brand manager, Clinique International, (Middle East and India), says: "Having sensitive skin means being allergic to the sun, dust, heat, smoke and other modern environmental factors. It is not linked to genetics. We know of atopic eczema, which has a strong genetic link. Studies on a global scale have shown that you can reduce sensitivity over time by following the right skincare routine. It can strengthen your skin's moisture and lipid barrier functions."

Red lipsticks are not for all women. True or false? False

Lucie Deudon, brand manager, Rimmel of London says, "I think red lipsticks suit all women, irrespective of skin tone because it depends on how much colour you apply on your lips. To create a trendy, soft-red look, use your finger to apply the lipstick to your lips.

"Start in the middle and blend it across but don't go to the edges. It gives a gorgeous strawberry red colour to the lips for a day-to-night look. If you want a sensuous, classic red look, just build the colour a little stronger. Then using a red lip pencil and starting in the middle of the lips, work outwards very softly. You can also use an eye definer to exaggerate. Remember to keep this limited to the lips and not do it around the edges. You may soften it with the fingers for a natural finish."

Shaving hair will make it grow back thicker. True or false? False.

Mirza says: "Shaving hair doesn't change its thickness or colour. It's very easy to understand how this myth started. Hair that is never shaved has a tapered edge. Once it is cut, the edge becomes blunt. When it grows back above the surface, not only does it feel stiffer than before, it looks thicker too. The location, thickness, colour and length of hair on your body is determined by genetics and hormones. After you shave body hair, it may feel coarse till the time it grows out. During this phase, it may be more noticeable - and may appear darker or thicker.

Natural products are non-allergenic. True or false? False.

"It is just a myth," says Mitchell. "Natural products can be just as allergenic as non-natural ones and sometimes, even more. You can be allergic to a plant extract, natural and organic. The important thing about natural products is that they don't use any parabens. These chemicals do cause an allergic reaction and health issues. Non-organic natural products, however, may still contain traces of pesticides. They have a negative reaction on the skin and health of the body. No doubt, Mother Nature knows best. Be aware that natural products are highly potent and this can cause slight sensitivity. I believe natural and organic products are best for all skin types."

Valente says, "Stretch marks develop as a result of over-stretching of the skin. When this happens, the skin loses its elasticity in that area. The darker the skin, the more the marks show. Cocoa butter may reduce stretch marks slightly but it depends on how you got the marks in the first place. Keeping skin well-moisturised at all times helps."

Applying petroleum jelly to eyelashes makes them grow thicker and longer. True or false? False.

Dr V.L. Shyam, leading Ayurvedic practitioner and columnist, says: "There are no studies to prove that the use of petroleum jelly can increase or improve growth of the eyelashes. It may give the eyelashes a greasy coating which in turn could make them look longer and thicker. Ayurveda suggests the use of anjana (Collerium) mixed with souvira anjana (Antimony sulphide) for thick and shiny eyelashes. Please check with your doctor before using it."

Mirza clarifies, "During the warm summer, the human body has to work faster to perform some common activities such as maintaining internal cellular equilibrium by adjusting to external or physiological changes. It also has to work faster and harder to help the body cool down. This leads to faster cell division due to more efficient blood circulation which causes hair to grow faster. Hair cells at the root divide much more quickly in summer than winter and push the hair more rapidly. As a result, hair grows about 10 per cent faster. This is why women may feel the need to depilate more often in summer."

Once you get a face lift, you will need another soon. True or false? False.

According to Dr K Al Hoshy, a leading dermatologist in Dubai, "A face-lift offers long-lasting elevation of sagging skin. The effect usually lasts for five to ten years. This period can be increased by maintaining a healthy skin. One must avoid smoking and direct exposure to the sun. Eating healthy foods containing anti-oxidants, exercising regularly and using topical skin products with vitamin A, C and alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) helps maintain the procedure's longevity. Also complementing the surgical face lifts are filler injections."

Alcohol-free products are better for the skin's health. True or false? True.

Hewerdine of Shima Beauty Lounge and Lily Pond Massage and Retreat outlets explain why, "Alcohol is mainly found in facial toners as it acts as an astringent on the skin. But it strips the skin of its natural oils leaving it taut. While some people, especially those with oily skin types, might like the feeling an alcohol-based toner gives, it isn't the most ideal method for cleaning skin. The long-term effects include drying and ageing of the skin. This is why it is recommended to use alcohol-free products. Under no circumstance should products containing alcohol be used around the eyes or neck area as the skin here ages at a faster rate and is more delicate."

Drinking tea makes you dark-complexioned. True or false? False.

Dubai-based skin aesthetician and beauty therapist Katrina Valente disagrees. "Drinking tea doesn't make your complexion dark. But tea contains caffeine, which is not great for the skin if taken in excess. It's also dehydrating and has tanine, which stains teeth. I guess this myth stemmed from the fact that dehydration of the skin causes dryness and leads to its darkening. The best thing to do is to have herbal tea or even better, water. This improves the look of the skin and within a week's time your skin will be glowing!"

Drinking plenty of water delays the onset of wrinkles. True or false? True.

Amanda Bell, Pixi international trainer and make-up artist says: "Dehydrated skin is dull and looks aged. You can tell it's dehydrated as there is a fine network of lines generally on the cheeks, under the eyes and on the forehead. This is a clear signal that the skin is literally thirsty and needs a drink. You have to start with replenishing lost moisture in the body. Then ensure that you drink up to two litres of water a day. Sip water during the course of the day to ensure that your moisture levels are at their maximum throughout the day. Any skin type can become dehydrated. Use skin products with aloe vera and bases with humectants as they hydrate and prevent moisture loss, plump lines and give the skin a healthy glow."

Soap is bad for the skin. True or false? False.

Saskia von Langermann, Nivea's product manager, Middle East and West Asia, explains, "The roots of this myth date back to a time when soaps were much harsher to the skin than they are today. Previously, different ingredients that went into the manufacturing process of soap. These included vegetable oils and animal fat. Of course, they were not very kind to the skin and may have caused several skin-related problems. However, as knowledge on skincare intensified over the years, these ingredients were replaced by mild moisturisers and cleansers that are suitable for different skin types. The result is a milder, gentler soap that can be used on both face and body."

You can shrink a pore. True or false? False.

Dubai-based dermatologist Dr K. Al Hoshy says: "So far, there is no product that can permanently reduce the size of a pore. Skin pores are usually about 50 microns in size and may increase with age. However, if you increase the size of the tissue between pores, you get the impression that pores are smaller. This effect can be achieved by using any procedure that increases the skin's water content. These include skin treatments like microdermabrasion or hyaluronic acid injections."