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London Fashion Week kicked off with a splash of colour, a touch of autumn and a dose of fun on Friday as the first of dozens of catwalk shows got under way.
Turkish-born Bora Aksu dressed his models with leaf-inspired headpieces and sober, wintry dresses set off by fanciful patterned tights and lace-up, high-heeled boots. There were bold and colourful pieces from London duo Antoni & Alison as well as more adventurous creations from the talented students of Central Saint Martins — London's premier arts and fashion school.
The centrepiece on Friday was a show by the up-and-coming designers from Central Saint Martins. With alumni like Stella McCartney, Christopher Kane and the late Alexander McQueen, it's no surprise that the crowds outside the show were the largest of the day.
There were no disappointments on Friday night as the show featured bold and brash dresses and ensembles, offering more spontaneity than many of the more polished shows that preceded it on the opening day lineup.
There were some signs of nerves and a few amateurish touches — including a dress that draped far too low, causing the model to trip — but this was more than made up for by the willingness to shake convention and try something new.
There were radical shapes, three dimensional dresses with protruding blocks, hats that obscured the face, fluffy outfits for men that made them look like cuddly teddy bears, and sexy dresses with cutouts and cellophane skirts. There were yellow space age outfits with oversize cutouts that looked straight out of Star Trek, or Woody Allen's Sleeper, and some dresses that resembled elaborate lamp shades.
A few models wore black, kimono style dresses with wooden neck braces that made them look a bit like whiplash victims, others wore shimmering metallic evening dresses layered with odd, sculptural shapes.
Overall, it was a cacophony of styles presented by a variety of designers, most of them about to graduate and descend on the hotly competitive fashion field. Some seem destined for greatness, others are likely to be forgotten before next season.
The Central Saint Martins show capped a festive opening day that included shows by Bora Aksu, Felder Felder, PPQ and others, with Stella McCartney, Vivienne Westwood, Burberry and others to follow in the coming days.
At his standing-room-only show, Bora Aksu used waistcoats, jackets and capes to spice up his fall and winter collection.
The models wore leaf-inspired headpieces to keep their hair in place, with many dresses featuring a white, grey and pink motif.
There were a few forays into sherbety orange and fuchsia, but most of the collection had a sober, wintry feel set off by fanciful patterned tights and lace-up, high-heeled boots. The dresses featured beautiful, ornate detailing.