Manish Malhotra: Couture revolution continues

There are designers, and then there is Manish Malhotra — an architect of cinematic dreams, a custodian of couture, and a storyteller whose medium happens to be fabric, embroidery, and an unmistakable air of luxury. As he celebrates 20 years of his eponymous brand and 35 years of dressing Bollywood’s finest, Malhotra is not just reflecting on the past but pushing forward into an even grander future.

“This July marks two major milestones for me — 20 years of my label and 35 years in the world of cinema fashion,” Malhotra says. “Luxury has transformed over the years. It’s no longer just about ostentation; it’s about individuality, about knowing yourself and expressing that through style.”

For Malhotra, creativity isn’t static — it’s a dialogue between the old and the new, the traditional and the contemporary. The inspiration, he insists, is everywhere. “Travel is my lifeblood. Every corner of the world whispers stories, and I try to absorb them all. That’s how I bridge the gap between Indian aesthetics and global sensibilities.”

Malhotra’s impact on Indian cinema is legendary. His influence ushered in an era where costumes became as integral to a film as its script. “Back when I started, costume designers were overlooked. Actresses had to look glamorous, but there was no thought about how their characters should look,” he recalls.

In 1994, everything changed. “After multiple requests, I was finally handed a script. That was unheard of back then. I fought for costume designers to be given character details, to understand the personality and journey of the role. Today, it’s standard practice, but back then, I initiated that shift.”

This attention to character extends to his couture collections. “It’s not just about creating beautiful clothes. It’s about breathing life into them — understanding the wearer’s narrative and translating it into fabric.” He seamlessly weaves traditional craftsmanship into contemporary design, ensuring that heritage never stands still but evolves.

Few designers champion Indian artisans quite like Malhotra. His dedication to crafts like Chikankari from Mijwan and Banarasi brocade is deeply personal. “These are not just textiles; they are living histories. They tell stories of generations of artisans who have honed their skills for centuries,” he says.

For him, the mission is clear — these crafts cannot be reduced to nostalgia. “It’s not just about ‘using’ them. It’s about integrating them into modern couture, making them relevant for the next generation. Take the sari — it’s inherently timeless. Now, imagine a corset sari, an edgy, modern interpretation that still respects its legacy. That’s what I strive for—keeping tradition alive while allowing it to evolve.”

From Bollywood’s legendary Rekha to international icons like Michael Jackson, Naomi Campbell, and Jennifer Lopez, Malhotra’s designs transcend borders. But does his approach change depending on the star?

“The process is always intimate,” he explains. “Whether it’s an Indian or international celebrity, my goal is to understand their personality, their style, and the occasion. The core of my philosophy remains unchanged — elegance, craftsmanship, and a strong narrative.”

He also believes that storytelling extends beyond the garments themselves. “Fashion is about resonance — creating something that not only looks good but feels like an extension of the person wearing it. That’s true whether I’m dressing a Bollywood star for the silver screen or a Hollywood icon for the red carpet.”

Never one to stay confined to a single discipline, Malhotra has expanded his creative universe with ventures into high jewelry and film production.

“Fashion has always been a canvas for me to tell stories. High jewellery was a natural extension — I’ve always sought to offer complete looks. My production house, Stage5 Production, is a return to my first love: cinema. It’s about diving deeper into storytelling, collaborating with filmmakers, and bringing fresh narratives to life.”

For Malhotra, these expansions are not just about diversifying his brand but about pushing creative boundaries. “I’m always looking for new avenues to explore, to contribute to art and culture in a meaningful way. It’s what keeps the journey exciting.”

Come 2025, Dubai Fashion Week will witness Malhotra closing the event in signature style. “This will be the first time my World collection is showcased on the runway,” he reveals. “We first launched it at my international flagship store and then at Harrods’ Private Shopping Penthouse. Now, it reaches a defining moment on this runway.”

Audiences can expect a masterclass in contemporary opulence. “Think sleek silhouettes, clean cuts, and intricate craftsmanship. It’s a celebration of Indian artistry with a modern twist — an evolution of my design philosophy.”

Malhotra notes that this collection reflects the glamour of the region while embracing global trends. “This showcase is about synergy — melding cultural influences to create something that is both rooted in tradition and completely of the moment.”

As one of Asia’s most influential couturiers, Malhotra is keen to share his wisdom with aspiring designers.

“My advice is simple: honour your heritage, but don’t be afraid to redefine it. The future of design lies in the fusion of tradition and innovation. Embrace the past but challenge yourself to reinterpret it for the present. Push boundaries, take risks, and most importantly, love what you do — because when you do, it will always love you back.”

He also emphasises that modern couture is about evolution. “It’s not just about keeping traditions alive — it’s about making them thrive. The beauty of fashion lies in reinvention. The same craft, reimagined for new generations, ensures that our heritage continues to inspire and resonate.”

With his inimitable blend of nostalgia and modernity, storytelling and sophistication, Manish Malhotra continues to set the gold standard for luxury fashion. And as the world watches, he’s only getting started.