Islands in a dream

Nestle in the lap of nature, shored by granitic outcrops, pristine beaches and crystal-clear turquoise waters. The picture-postcard beauty of Seychelles, a cluster of more than 100 islands, is simply breathtaking; an ideal getaway for those who need total privacy, says Henry Jacob

As guests tucked into their medallions of lobster and mango, crispy wrapped prawn with guacamole, giant ravioli with pumpkin and almonds, marjoram and truffle emulsion and other exotic preparations, three men mingled with the crowd, disguised as waiters, serving canapes and beverages.

Nobody knew they were actors until one of them, Mark Lanahan, commenced his performance, much to the surprise of those present.

He was later joined by his companions and soon they took to the stage, performing one act after the other.

The trio were flown in specially from the UK.

The act was part of a reception hosted recently in honour of Shaikh Ahmad Bin Saeed Al Maktoum, President of Dubai Civil Aviation and Chairman of Emirates Group, and Seychelles Vice-President Joseph Belmont at L'Abondance Restaurant on Sainte Anne Island.

Prominent dignitaries from the Seychelles government, the diplomatic community, business and other fields mingled with Emirates' top brass.

The occasion: to celebrate the start of Emirates non-stop services between Seychelles and Dubai.

There was an air of eupepsia as some of the guests - us mediapersons included - returned from the event late in the night.

As our yacht entered the landing pier at Mahe, a tall, dark, bespectacled figure was making sure the guests had landed safely.

Bernard Monet, the affable, down-to-earth human resource manager of Sainte Anne Island, was all smiles when this correspondent greeted him.

In the course of our conversation, I asked him his impressions of Seychelles.

Monet, a Seychellois (as the local man is called), replied: "It's a green pearl in the Indian Ocean."

Green pearl? But aren't pearls supposed to be white?

"There, you get the drift. That's what makes Seychelles unique."

Monet could not have been closer to the truth. Seychelles, an archipelago of 118 islands, is, as the catchphrase goes, 'unique by a thousand miles'.

It is one of the finest natural spots in the Indian Ocean and has some of the most picture-postcard beaches, coral reefs, marine life - you name it, it's there - ever seen.

The water is so crystal-clear that you can see the seabed 30 metres - even 100 metres - below.

Think of atolls set in turquoise lagoons, snow-white beaches, lined with palm trees and protected by coral reefs.

Think of enormous ferns growing below tall granite cliffs, the greenest of valleys dotted with orchids, big trees swaying in the breeze by the sea.

It's nature that encapsulates the wealth of Seychelles, the eclectic mark of earthly bliss.

This is your ultimate getaway, your road to relaxation, the place to bump- start your unwinding.

To relegate it to the backblocks of civilisation would be off-beam. It has a rare mix of old-world charm and modernity, an oneiric world where the three Ss of life in Seychelles - sun, sand and serenity - dominate, where nothing comes between you and nature.

For the tourist, it is a full-frontal approach to a laidback life, ruled by total privacy.

Seychelles has a population of about 81,000, the bulk of which live in Mahe, the largest of Seychelles' granite islands.

Allow yourself time to get to know it, its lush vegetation paths winding through the forests as the road begins its ascent, its hidden creeks, the spectacular show of waves breaking over craggy rocks.

The small beaches at Anse Royale at the farthest tip are great. Mahe has museums, a botanical garden, and several national monuments.

It could possibly be one of the world's smallest capitals, but nevertheless fulfils a role as both an administrative and economic centre.

Victoria is a beehive of activity and leisure.

Be it the formally attired professional, or the elderly Seychellois, carrying his bag of provisions, donning a floral shirt, shorts and sneakers, enjoying a tete-a tete with his companions or watching life go by, or even the salesman at a crafts shop, whatever be the nature of his job, if there is one thing that greets you as you stroll around the centre of town, it is the smile of the Seychellois.

And the likelihood that he will greet you with a 'Bonzour' (Good morning in Creole) salutation.

Amid the hustle and bustle of town life, where one sees both modern-day constructs and buildings with corrugated iron roofs, you are likely to come across three landmarks that make this tourist haven extra-special: there is just one post office, one traffic light and one cinema (called Deepam).

All within a walking distance of less than five minutes.

Yes, you are also likely to encounter a slice of London here too - Seychelles was a former British colony: the Clock Tower in the centre of town imitates Big Ben.

Those wishing to buy souvenirs or such mementoes can check the small shops showcasing their wares in Victoria House Gallery, or the stalls on Francis Rachel Street.

The shops in Market Street display a multitude of sweet-smelling herbs and spices.

A constant in Seychelles: no highrises in the city.

Why is it, I ask Rodney Maria, our tour guide from Travel Services Seychelles (TSS).

"It is out of concern for the environment. We have to preserve the beauty of the islands," he says.

A major draw with tourists is the weather. Vladim, a tourist from Russia enjoying his breakfast and the morning zephyr in the sea-facing restaurant of our hotel, Le Meridien Fisherman's Cove, finds the weather all too pleasant, a far cry from sub-zero temperatures back home.

"It is so beautiful out here. I don't have to worry about terribly cold temperatures." he says."

Situated between four and five degrees south of the equator, Seychelles enjoys a pleasant tropical climate all year long: the islands lie outside the cyclone belt and there are no extremes of weather.

The temperature seldom drops below 24°C or rises above 33°C.

During the north-west trade winds that blow between October and May, the sea is generally calm and the weather hot and humid.

This is the best time of year for diving and other water sports.

When the south-east trade winds blow between May and September, the weather is generally drier, and cooler with rougher seas, particularly on south-eastern coasts.

However, short-lived tropical downpours can occur at any time of year.

It may be difficult to cherry-pick when it comes to the islands. Each island is as beautiful as the other.

MerciAnn and Maria accompany us during our trip to Moyenne island, about a half-hour's boat ride from Mahe.

This is a small island, unlike Mahe, or even Praslin, the second-largest island in the country.

You can cover it in less than an hour.

It has lots of vegetation, birds and turtles, which crop up in your path like boulders every now and then.

Some of them are huge - the largest, says Maria, is the Esmeralda, found on Bird Island, and weighs 380 kg.

Moyenne's owner Brendan Grimshaw - his fourscore years belying his youthful enthusiasm - has been dubbed the 'Robinson Crusoe' of the is