Nepal: Lukla, once a trekkers’ paradise, wears a deserted look

Kathmandu: The mighty Himalayas and its tallest peak Everest have always been an irresistible dream to thousands of trekkers who flock to Nepal from around the world.

But after an earthquake on April 25 triggered a massive avalanche that killed dozens in the Everest base camp, the influx of tourists has stopped, at least temporarily.

Lukla is one among the many trekking villages in the Himalayan valley that has been badly hit by this tourism freeze.

Located in Khumbu, in the Solukhumbu district in the North-eastern side of Nepal, its airport is the closest visitors can fly in to start trekking to the base camp 45km away. And even though Lukla airport is known as one of the world’s most dangerous airports in the world, it made the picturesque village, some 21,860 metres high, a hot favourite for trekkers.

But today, its collapsed houses, deserted streets and closed lodges and restaurant tell a different story.

The economy that was mainly propped up by the revenue generated from tourism has collapsed. Most of its men who used to work as guides and potters for the expedition groups, have become jobless.

Cost of the tremors

“This earthquake has deprived us of our livelihood,” Karma Gyalzen Sherpa, 34, told Gulf News.

Dhan Karna Rai, in his 20s, said he used to earn Nepali Rupees 50,000 to 60,000 (Dh1,790-2,150) in one season, carrying the luggage up the mountains for trekkers. “I don’t think I can earn even half of it as a construction labourer,” he said.

Trained guides who accompany trekkers on their Everest summit are paid more handsomely. A single trip that can last more than one month, can fetch them anything between $5,000 and $6,000 (Dh18,364-22,037).

But even their future looks bleak. Dawa Gyalzen Sherpa, 28, a trained guide and rescue specialist who has summited the Everest six times in the last five years, said people of Lukla are praying for tourists to come back.

“We are hoping things will get better soon and there won’t be more earthquakes.”

He added that only some Sherpa guides are lucky enough to make it to European countries during off season.

“We belong here and life won’t be the same in Lukla without tourists,” said Gyalzen Sherpa. Many said they will start looking for jobs abroad if life doesn’t normalise.

“Many of us have lost our homes, and we need money to restart our lives,” Dileep Tamang, 25, said. He added that he will even consider moving to the Gulf countries although he has heard bad stories about the working conditions there.

Bad for business

Business has taken a beating for those running lodges, restaurants and souvenir shops too.

Pasang Sherpa, 70, who runs Sherpa Lodge said ever since the earthquake, all 20 rooms of his lodge have remained empty.

“No one is coming now. We are not making any money.”

Anjana Sankar is a Senior Reporter at Xpress, a sister publication of Gulf News.