Chandni Chowk 'curries' a flurry

The holy month of Ramadan sees a distinct flurry of activity around the capital's walled city area of Chandni Chowk. It is that time of the year when the seasoned Dilliwallah looks towards Old Delhi with a sense of belonging. It is also that timeof the year when it seems day and night switch places.

As the lights go up in the area and people preferring to visit the markets late in the evening, the entire place comes alive. Shops and streets are decorated with lights and vendors prominently display their wares.

With most rickshaws off the roads at night, one can move around in the bylanes easily. While one lane specialises in silver and gold jewellery, the other displays wholesale garments. Electronics' shops rub shoulders with shops selling spices.

The bazaars specialise in selling non-vegetarian dishes and are a treat for those with a sweet tooth. Food stalls and restaurants selling authentic Mughlai and Awadhi cuisine are open throughout the night and serve various delicacies.

A number of people visit the area after iftar, to try out different kinds of desserts in the market and enjoy the hustle-bustle. The route to Jama Masjid is heavy with aroma of kebabs, tikkas, fried chicken and other delicacies. Biryani, nihari and various varieties of kebabs are favourite. Steaming hot milk mixed with dry fruits is another crowd–puller this season.

Ashraf Fehmy, a resident of Matia Mahal says, "Several of our friends residing in South Delhi have been visiting us regularly during Ramadan for the past many years. Belonging to the business class, they have odd working hours that side of the town. Their oft-repeated complaint is that there is no nightlife as far as good food is concerned. And they come here specially to have non-vegetarian nihari and paaya."

Glittering neon signs of many restaurants claim to sell dishes made of recipes belonging to the Mughal period. Generally all sweets sold in the shops claim to be made from pure ghee. To keep up with the culture of the place even some non-Muslims residing in Old Delhi are known to fast throughout the day.

Children tag along elders relishing the taste of the walled-city delicacy shahi tukda and phirni. With some homemade icecream is an all–time favourite.

Groups of men – young and old – gather in front of shops after breaking their fast and celebrate with family and friends till sehri.

Apart from restaurants, the market is full of shops selling garments, shoes, decorative artworks, perfumes, fruits and vegetables. Another interesting aspect is the makeshift roadside stall with seating arrangements. Says Sunil Sirohi, a foodie and resident of Delhi Cantonment, "I try to visit the area for its non-vegetarian food once in a while, but during Ramadan, I make it a point to come here at least twice a week and consider it to be the best night-life spot."