Tasting true Asia in Malaysia

It would be a pity to land in Kuala Lumpur after dusk — you will miss out on a fantastic aerial view of natural beauty. The area surrounding the ultra-modern Kuala Lumpur International Airport, like much of the city, is so lush, it looks like a huge, thick green carpet from above.

As cities go, 'KL', as it is popularly known, is a mix of Singapore and Bangkok. It has infrastructure almost as good as Singapore, but not its oppressive orderliness. And it has the cultural charm of Bangkok without the seediness of the Thai capital. Good administration, oil revenue and the entrepreneurial spirit of its people, have given Malaysians a standard of living that is surpassed only by Singapore and Brunei in the region.

City life

KL has an efficient transport system comprising the Light Rail Transit (LRT), buses and taxis. But cheap fuel and people's buying power, have ensured roads in the city are mostly jam packed with cars.

And the tropical heat and humidity don't make KL an easy city on foot. Malaysians, across the ethnic divide, are a friendly lot. And language is not a problem for the foreign visitor.

Malaysia, being a Commonwealth country, English is widely spoken. But universal sign language undergoes a slight modification when it comes to pointing in directions: people in KL have a curious tendency to use a flat thumb, rather than the index finger!

With a population that is about 65 per cent Malay, 25 per cent Chinese and 8 per cent Indian, Malaysia is, indeed, truly Asia.
And nowhere is this ethnic mix better represented than in the variety of food on offer. KL is a gourmet's delight. The place is filled with kedai kopis (local coffee-shops) and small eateries that offer delicious food for about RM15 (one Malaysian ringgit is roughly equal to a dirham).

You can start the day with the traditional Malay breakfast of nasi lemak (rice, beef rendang, crisp anchovies and eggs), have eye-wateringly hot South Indian food on a banana leaf in KL's Little India for lunch and munch on prawns and fried rice in Chinatown for dinner.

If all this is not enough, there are the ubiquitous chains offering American junk food. A word of caution though: while all Malay, and most Indian, restaurants offer halal food, the same is not true of the Chinese eateries.

Hence, if you are particular about this, look out for the small, government-sanctioned sticker saying HALAL on the entrance door of restaurants.

Where there's a party in town...

Combine miniature versions of Las Vegas and Disneyland. And Genting is what you get. This "city of entertainment" is just 55 km from Kuala Lumpur. But with the chill wind and at an altitude of 2,000 metres above sea level, it could well have been in another country.

A confession: I went to Genting only because it was included in our package deal. But once there, I realised it was a good way to spend one day. The mountain scenery is breathtaking. Add to that a party atmosphere in the entire town.

Apart from the natural beauty, there are only two attractions in Genting. The casinos and the theme park, which are part of a massive complex. The theme park is superb, and some of the "joy" rides are scary enough to bring your heart into your mouth.

If you can, try and get a room on a higher floor; the view of the complex from the top is amazing.

See this!

The Petronas Twin Towers are to KL what the Burj Al Arab is to Dubai: the most striking building in town. Indeed, the towers have come to symbolise the Malaysian capital. My biggest regret after the trip was not being able to get a view of the city from the top of the Petronas. I had to make do with scenes from the Bollywood film, Don, which is almost entirely shot in KL.

The majestic Sultan Abdul Samad Building is a good place to begin a city tour. It houses the judicial and municipal courts, and is a good example of colonial architecture in the city.

You must spend half a day walking along Bukit Bintang street. This area is a microcosm of KL. It's also the main shopping district, and the glitzy malls here can give any in Dubai a run for their money.

No visit to KL is complete without an evening in Petaling Street, in the heart of Chinatown. You can buy a variety of souvenirs and both original and fake goods. The rule: offer to pay half the price demanded. And then continue to haggle.

The Lake Gardens area is the greenest part of this green city. It is surely worth a visit, especially the sombre memorial to Malay soldiers fallen in the Second World War.

Malaysia marks 50 years of nationhood in 2007, and the government's Visit Malaysia campaign is on in full swing. If you have plans, then this is a good time to go.

Go there... Kuala Lumpur

From the UAE
Emirates and Malaysian airlines have regular flights to KL. Fares (including taxes) start at about Dh2,500.

Visas
Nationals of most countries need a visa to travel to Malaysia, which can be obtained from the Malaysian consulate in Dubai, 04-3355528.

When to go
December to February is the best time to visit Malaysia.

Where to stay
I stayed at the 3-star Grand Continental hotel in downtown KL; about Dh170 a night, including breakfast.

In Genting, I stayed at the 3-star Highlands Hotel for about Dh180 a night, including breakfast.

Information
Visit www.tourism.gov.my, the official site of the Malaysia Tourism Promotion Board.