Swiss bliss on the shores of Lake Geneva

Every preconceived notion I had of Switzerland - rolling hills, majestic mountains and crisp, blue skies - was confirmed as we rounded the corner and cruised along the coastal road heading into the Swiss Riviera. I was journeying to Vevey, and we were already motoring through a Unesco World Heritage site, otherwise known as Lavaux. Vineyards flanked us on both sides, the lake glistened under the perfectly tempered sun and the Evian Mountains were in full view. Breathtaking.

My destination was Le Grand Hotel du Lac, made famous in Anita Brookner's 1984 Booker Prize novel of the same name, where the hotel becomes a refuge for the story's heroine who has fled an emotional crisis. A resident of the lake since 1868, the hotel is responsible for first bringing aristocratic travellers to the region.

The hotel has undergone a recent makeover at the hands of French interior designer Pierre-Yves Rochon. The result is a home-from-home hotel, filled with little pieces of history and steeped in character. Attention has been paid to every little detail, and with a location to rival any of the world's greats, the recipe is a charming one.

Met by a platter of chocolate as I checked in - which the Swiss are even more proud of than I originally realised - I was effortlessly whisked up to my sumptuous suite that seemed to start at the doorway and ended somewhere on the other side of the French mountains. With double doors that opened up onto my own private terrace, it wasn't long before I was soaking up the surrounds with the kind of view that makes it near impossible to ever leave.

It was already easy to see why so many of the Middle East's local population descend on Vevey and its surrounding areas for the summer. Not only does it offer respite from the summer heat, the Swiss Riviera is famous for providing its visitors with privacy and discretion. Numerous homes along Lake Geneva once belonged, or still do belong, to an army of famous faces and socialites looking for a place to hide away from it all. Charlie Chaplin was Vevey's most famous resident, setting up home in the town for 25 years, and just around the corner in Montreux, Freddie Mercury - lead singer of Queen - set up shop not long after recording one of the band's albums. Both have been honoured with permanent statue status.

But enough exploring for one day - it was time to head back to the hotel and indulge in a little R&R at the in-house spa. Every bit as elegant and polished as the rest of the hotel, the Swiss Bellefontaine Health & Wellness Centre provided the perfect antidote to my jetlagged body with a 30-minute reflexology session followed by a bath. As the rejuvenating bath salts soaked in, I flung open the windows to enjoy the Alpine view. I finished my evening off taking full advantage of the fresh air and spectacular views served up at La Veranda, where I dined on fresh perch from the lake and had my first taste of Swiss wine.

The next day was a full agenda packed with vineyards, a top-notch lunch and shopping, but first on the list was discovering what Switzerland is most famous for: chocolate. Local chocolatier, Poyet - run by a Veveyan husband and wife team - are only too happy to open up their chocolate patisserie to the public, explaining how the process works, where the best cocoa beans come from, and of course, offering nibbles of their own favourite blends. Not to sound too cliché, but the experience is all a bit Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, especially as machines ooze with deliciously thick chocolate goo. Piece after piece of dark, bitter chocolate was handed round. Somehow I managed to devour the Venezulan, Brazilian and Columbian blends, as well as the Poyet's own raspberry and pistachio-infused creations.

Prizing myself away from the chocolate covered counter top, I headed out of town to find out why most of the Lavaux region, and its vineyards, are classed as a Unesco World Heritage site. Stretching along 30 kilometres from Lausanne to the Château de Chillon, the vineyards cling to the green hills, producing some of Switzerland's finest wines.

Dating back to the 11th century, the terraces were built when the area was under the control of the Benedictine and Cistercian monasteries. Today, thanks to the area's careful preservation, the vineyards still thrive, and Switzerland produces some of the best wines due to the regions climate and sun exposure reflecting off the lake.

Patrick Fonjallaz owns one of the bigger wineries in the area, which spreads over 75 acres, and is considered to produce some the highest qualities of grape. A Frenchman, with a red-headed twist of Irish, Patrick a is 12th generation winemaker who seems to enjoy the fruits of his labour.

His vineyard, which offers wine-tasting tours, sits midway up the hillside and offers spectacular views of the terraces that creep and curve along the landscape. Sitting under his veranda, I hadn't expected to while away a few hours slicing into cold cuts and sampling his produce. The experience was definitely worth savouring because the Swiss don't export their wines - they don't produce enough - so unless you go there, you'll never know how great it is.

After a lunch of more delicately cooked lake perch, I headed back to Vevey to discover what lies beyond the lake. A quaint village town with a tiny population of just 17,000 people, Vevey seems to have stepped straight out of a Brothers Grimm fairytale. Picture-book perfect, its cobbled streets wind their way through the main square, offering up a myriad of local craft and art stores, fashion boutiques, cafes, theatres and delicatessens. Torn between the locally produced gruyere, chintz-inspired art and dainty bathroom knick-knacks, I soon found plenty to keep me entertained for the afternoon.

Aside from chocolate, wine and, of course, perch, the Vevey-Montreux belt offers much in the way of gastronomy. Famed for its dining establishments, the area boasts 101 chef's hats awards and a whopping 17 Michelin stars. For dinner, I opted for Restaurant du Château, which falls under the helm of Chef Denis Martin, who is leading the charge in developing Switzerland's molecular cuisine.

Even though fun in spirit, Chef Martin is serious when it comes to his creations, and his quirky restaurant, complete with mooing cow toys on the tables, serves up a 26-course gastronomic feast that both defy and challenge convention. Bite-sized portions of tomato came in the shape of teeny gold bars, basil came not as a seasoning but in an-almost airless foam, and sardines were served up disguised as ice-cream. Weird? Yes. Wacky? Oh, yes. Fun? Totally. It was no effort to enjoy through the 26 courses - my favourite part of the evening was when lollipops came served inside a balloon at the end!

Part of the region's greatest pulling power is its natural make up, and having spent most of my time soaking up life on the lake, it was time to head up into the mountains. Starting my journey on the lake, it was the perfect opportunity to take in the lie of the land as I cruised along the shoreline to Montreux.

Along the way, we passed the famous Clinic La Prairie, where clients (mainly of the rock star variety) go to embark on wellness programmes and a possible nip/tuck. Again, Switzerland proves a popular destination for its discretion in this regard. There are a number of train 'experiences' to choose from, including the Lavaux Express, otherwise known as the Wine Train, which climbs the sides of the sprawling vineyards, or the Golden Pass Panoramic. Here, you get to traverse through the mountains in chocolate and fondue-tasting carriages. I boarded the cog railway headed for Les Rochers-de-Naye. The tiny two-carriage train quickly filled up as fellow passengers bayed for window seats, and sports extremists, accompanied by their bikes, headed for the ultimate adrenalin rush.

Chugging out of the station, the train was soon on its vertical way. The whole scene played out like a game of cat and mouse, as just small flashes of lake and mountains peeked through the trees. But the view was definitely worth waiting for: awesome.

At 2,045 metres above sea level, Rochers-de-Naye towers over its domain and undoubtedly commands its due respect. Colder than the towns down below, there was still a beautiful covering of snow on the ground. On disembarking the train, I was met by the resident reindeer - all it needed now was for Santa Claus to appear and it would feel like Christmas in June!

The trains run on an hourly basis, so once at the top you can hang around for as long as you like. Before catching a return train, lunch in the mountain-top restaurant came with a side order of spectacular views and a visit to the Marmot garden - home to the squirrely groundhog creatures that live in the Alps.

Alpine life in winter is dominated by skiers and snowboarders, but in the summer, the Swiss have found all manner of ways to take full advantage of their height and contours. Dare-devilish bikers pit their nerve against the craggy tracks, hikers of all ages make use of the winding pathways, and paragliders take a giant leap of faith into the unknown. You can even spend the night at the top in one of the authentic, albeit smelly, Mongolian yurts, which are big enough to sleep up to eight people for Dh915 per night.

I couldn't leave Switzerland without seeing the Chateau de Chillon, another landmark made famous in 1816 by Lord Byron's The Prisoner of Chillon poem. The most impressive of all Switzerland's castles, Chillon sits majestically along the banks of Lake Geneva. In its day, it was the guardian of the two main trade routes that passed from north to south Europe.

Chillon opens its doors to visitors daily, and a wander through this gothic structure reveals much about its past inhabitants. Underground chambers, great banqueting halls, a chapel, sleeping chambers and courtyards transport you back to the twelfth century when the castle was in its prime.

Besides the blue skies, fresh air, rolling hills and mountain tops I had been seeking on my arrival, after my three-day tour, I was amazed to see how much more this small country can offer its visitors. You'll also find indulgent spa breaks, gastronomic delights, history, art, culture and a wealth of outdoor activity.

Whether you're a couple looking for a romantic break, a lone traveller wanting rest and recuperation or a family looking for an action-packed holiday, Switzerland has it all.

Stay: Le Grand Hôtel du Lac

With a palette of cool colours and the adornment of sumptuous wallpapers, the Hôtel du Lac is a feast for the eyes. Every nook and cranny holds something of interest, and with so many treasures to discover, you could spend hours wandering its grand hallways. There are 50 rooms to choose from, including everything from standard to suite. If you can, opt for a room with a lake view and terrace as this is where the hotel's real pulling power lies.

Alongside the spa, guests can relax in either of the three lounges - The Bar, an intimate evening hotspot with Chinese-inspired decor; The Lounge, which is the perfect place to take afternoon tea; or The Oriental Salon, a cosy hideaway for small gatherings.

Breakfast comes served in the airy, conservatory-style Les Saisons, while La Veranda holds a prime spot outside with fabulous lake views. The hotel prides itself on its cuisine with a top resident chef who excels in clean, elegant dishes to tantalise the tastebuds. Centrally located, you're never far from anywhere - just a short stroll over the road sees you at the lake's shore. The hotel is more than happy to organise any of the tours and excursions available in the area, and a chat with the friendly staff will reveal numerous interesting tidbits about its past.

The Grand Hôtel du Lac is part of the Luxury Hotels by Dnata collection - a handpicked selection of some of the world's finest hotels. A three-night stay starts from Dh7,590 per person, including return economy flights, superior room, breakfast, and daily airport transfers and taxes (prices may vary after August 15).

Call 04-3166160 or e-mail mailto:luxuryhotels@dnata.com
Swiss International Air Lines fly daily from Dubai to Geneva via Zurich. Return flights start from Dh2,650.Visit http://www.swiss.com