Sky high style in Milan

Dubbed the ‘engine room’ of Italy, it’s known as the heart of the country’s economy – while its soul, it seems, resides elsewhere. For a start, of all the famous Italian landmarks – the Sistine Chapel, San Marco square, Michelangleo’s David, the Leaning Tower – not one of them is in Milan, which is ‘industrial’, ‘grey’ and ‘the Manchester of Italy’, I was told.

So when, on my first day in the city, I found myself in a crammed room, hustling and bustling for tickets to see Milan’s most revered resident, you’d be forgiven for thinking I was queuing to see some sort of grungy Mancunian rock group. Instead I was there for tickets to view a 15th-century painting. Leonardo Da Vinci’s legendary The Last Supper to be exact – a touchstone of Renaissance art, it is Milan’s most valued possession and so in demand that it’s crucial to book at least a month in advance to bag just a 15-minute spot with this famous fresco.

Perfectly navigable on foot, the pretty streets – lined with baroque-style architecture, beautiful trees and art deco cafés – suddenly give way to concealed courtyards with cobblestones and climbing vines that look as if they’re straight from the set of a Shakespeare play. You might plan to set out for one particular palace, museum or gallery, until another one you’d never heard of steals your attention along the way. All of which makes it ideal for UAE-based travellers craving a shot of culture. It’s like the Yakult of the mini-break – compact and highly concentrated, with good-quality sightseeing.

A very romantic setting

My dose of history began from the moment I arrived in my hotel. Located bang in the centre of town, the Four Seasons Milano is tucked away discreetly between two of Italy’s most exclusive shopping streets – Via Montenapoleone and Via della Spiga – and has little to announce its existence other than a few understated flags.

A five-minute walk from the famous Scala opera theatre – where the current offering over Christmas is La Traviata – and the world-renowned Duomo di Milano cathedral, the Four Seasons is not only the ideal location for taking in the sites, it’s a slice of history in itself.

A restored former 15th-century convent, it boasts centuries-old frescoes, columns and vaulted ceilings. My room on the first floor had a beautiful view of the tranquil 15th-century cloisters – now a garden of finely trimmed lawn and topiary – and as I looked at it through the large, wooden-shuttered windows, it would have been easy to imagine a Romeo-type desperately declaring his undying love from below.

Unfurling myself from the spa’s soothing embrace in the early evening, it was the ideal time for apertivo – a Milanese institution of pre-dinner drinks served alongside generous helpings of free bar food.

The trendy area of Brera boasts a whole street of bars and cafés offering similar happy hour menus, and it’s easy to make a cheap early dinner by going on a café crawl. Wandering through the pretty street, dotted with stalls selling scarves, handbags and paintings and buskers electrifying the air with loud music, I passed the Pinacoteca Di Brera – one of Milan’s many art galleries, housing originals from Raphael, Caravaggio, Modigliani and, most famously, Francesco Hayez’s The Kiss – before settling down for an al fresco drink.

The Milanese were out in force – typically stylish, well-dressed women swapped stories in rapid Italian at the table next to me, while a cheerful man in a pinstriped suit cycled by with his toddler daughter strapped to the back in what looked like a sartorially superior version of a scene from La Vita E Bella (Life Is Beautiful).

Having had my fill of people-watching and antipasti, I made my way back to the hotel, passing endless design stores, yet more museums – featuring everything from archaeology to more Leonardo Da Vinci-themed information – before arriving in time for a late dinner at La Veranda restaurant, where the delicious and traditionally Milanese specialities include courgette stuffed with ricotta and mint, classic saffron risotto and osso bucco (veal shank).

The next morning, I rushed downstairs for a quick breakfast before heading out to catch the churches – I didn’t want riposo to foil my plans again. Close to the Santa Maria delle Grazie church is Sant’Ambrogio, one of Milan’s oldest basilicas founded by Archbishop Ambrose in 379, and where he – the patron saint of the city – is now buried. Well signposted in both Italian and English, it’s well worth a visit to take in the Dark-Age mosaics glittering in the apse and the medieval features.

From here I headed to the imposing entrance of the Castello Sforzesco, a complex of fortresses, castles and towers begun in 1451 for Francesco Sforza, Duke of Milan, which contains art and sculpture collections dating from the early Middle Ages to the 18th century, where you can easily spend a few hours. This is attached to the beautiful Parco Sempione, one of the largest parks in the city, and I finished my visit strolling through the tree-lined avenues watching well-groomed owners walking their equally well-groomed dogs.

Glorious, yet understated

Having been in Milan for more than 24 hours, I still hadn’t taken in its greatest landmark – the Duomo. Begun in 1386, it took more than 400 years to finish this imposing structure – the largest Gothic cathedral in the world – with its intricate stone tracery, turrets and flying buttresses. It might not make it into a top-five list of the most famous buildings in Italy – in fact, I hadn’t really heard of it before my visit to Milan – but that says more about the country than it does about the Duomo. For its stunning, gleaming white facade and breathtaking rooftop views would easily be the main sight of any less culture-rich destination. You can have a look around the impressive interior with its beautiful stained glass and statues for free, or pay a small fee to walk up the stone spiral staircase to the rooftop. From here, you’re greeted by a vista of the whole of Milan in all of its glory and complexity. Factory turrets and modern skyscrapers in the distance are a reminder of the city’s industrial assets.

The nearby Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II shopping arcade, lined with high-end stores, represents the fashion credentials of a city that launched the careers of Armani, Versace, Prada and Gucci, among others. Meanwhile the many bell towers and domes of ancient churches are a reminder of the city’s oft-overlooked historical heart.

Turkish Airlines flies to Milan via Istanbul from around Dh2,200. Tabitha stayed at the Four Seasons Milano. Many different packages are available, but room rates start from around €550 (approx Dh2,800) per room per night. Call 39 02 77088 or see www.fourseasons.com/milan for more information and to make a reservation.