Rich pickings in Monaco

Time seems to stand still in the tiny principality of Monaco. Nestled in a picturesque bay of the Mediterranean, it is only about 3km long but is known as the playground of the rich and famous.

With just 30,000 citizens, called Monegasques, making up a quarter of the population, Monaco is a favourite port of call of cruise liners.

It is also the favoured spot for celebrities, oil barons, royalty of every hue and background and aristocrats. All these notables come with an entourage of bodyguards and hangers-on. Yet nothing detracts from the ambience of an aristocratic, leisurely (horribly expensive!) way of life.

A stopover during a recent Mediterranean cruise — a visit after decades — showed that nothing had changed: the unhurried lifestyle, chauffeur-driven Rolls and Bentleys purring down tree lined hillsides, coiffed socialites disembarking to meet for lunch at restaurants so expensive that my appetite disappeared on checking the menu.

The only people rushing around were camera-toting tourists (from our cruise ship) and others who had been bussed in from neighbouring France and Italy.

Elite elegance

With flamboyant T-shirts, wacky shorts, sneakers and large hats, devouring hamburgers and crepes at roadside eateries, they formed a jarring, noisy segment and remained ignored by the residents who drove past to their elegant rendezvous.

“Let the masses enjoy the day, they will leave at sunset,'' they appeared to say.

The view of Monaco from the port is spectacular — spread out over a rocky landscape stretching to the sea.

The bay is full of luxury yachts and snazzy cars zipped around the hillside. Magnificent hotels form the social hub and the nightlife, which centres on board games, is supposed to be the best and most stylish in the world.

The story so far

The port of Monaco dates back to 43BC when Julius Caesar based his fleet there. In the 12th century, the area was under Genoa. and in the 13th century, the Grimaldis gained control.

To this day, with Prince Albert at the head the dynasty, it is the most enduring in European history. Monaco came into international limelight with Price Rainier ascending the throne in 1949.

He worked hard to repair the damage wreaked by years of war.

Monaco had been occupied first by the Italians and later by Germans. Eventually the Allied forces liberated the principality. The prince developed his kingdom into a venue for banking and financial services.

In 1956 he married Grace Kelly, who, being the epitome of style, brought in droves of celebrities, making Monaco the meeting spot for the rich and famous.

The princess died in an accident in 1982, leaving behind her husband and three children: Caroline, Albert and Stephanie.

Heirs of disgrace

Sadly, her children have not kept up the family tradition of dignity and grace. All three have been headstrong and wayward, known more for their philandering and liaisons with bodyguards and waitresses than their regal ways.

In 1978 Princess Caroline married Philippe Junot, an older man and playboy. Predictably the marriage ended in divorce.

She then wed Stefano Casiraghi, with whom she had three children. Sadly, Casiraghi died in a boating accident. In 1999, when she was expecting her fourth child, she wed Prince Ernst August of Hanover.

Princess Stephanie, also a rebel, has had many romantic liaisons — most of which have been fodder for tabloids. She was married to her bodyguard, divorced, married to another bodyguard and then to a trapeze artiste.

Prince Albert has also had a chequered romantic history but is yet to get married. If he dies without producing a legitimate heir, Princess Caroline and her children will inherit the mantle.

One can only think of the grief the father must have suffered seeing his children break royal traditions.

However, the Grimaldi family is as much part of Monaco as the rock the country is built on.

The dynasty enjoys a close relationship with its citizens and revels in the adoration of the tourists who crowd to gape at the international celebrities, to pose in front of the royal palace and enjoy the old-fashioned trams.

Sights of Monaco

Donning sunhats and wearing sturdy shoes, we embarked to make the most of our day in Monaco. Tunnels, escalators and grassy tracks make exploring easy.

The trouble is, with the stupendous views of the harbour and bays, and fountains and parks, there are frequent stops to take photographs.

A must-see is the Palais du Prince (the Royal Palace) — if there is a flag fluttering above, know that Prince Albert is in residence. Time your visit for 11.55am to catch the Changing of the Guard, which is a spectacular ceremony.

Go up an escalator to Monaco-Ville near the Oceanograph Museum, where the legendary explorer Jacques Cousteau was director for decades.

The Monaco Cathedral, which dates back to the 19th century, is very impressive. Princess Grace and Prince Rainier were married there and scores of ancestors are buried in the graveyard.

Time and pocket permitting, a visit to the Hotel de Paris is unforgettable. Give yourself the opportunity to indulge in the opulence and elegance of a bygone era. Or, with a limited budget, just settle for a café experience and hope for a glimpse of a Gramaldi or a star!

— Nirmal Khanna is a UAE-based freelance writer

Go there ... Monaco

From the UAE ... From Dubai

The nearest airport to Monaco is Nice.

Emirates flies daily.
Fare from Dh4,500

Air France flies daily via Paris.
Fare from Dh4,760

Austrian Airlines flies daily via Vienna.
Fare from Dh3,950

— Information courtesy:
The Holiday Lounge by Dnata.
Ph: 04 4298576