Relax in Rishikesh

The full moon shining high in the cloudless sky was enough to light up the twisting and often steep path in front of the club car. The buzz of the vehicle was the only sound breaking the silence dotted with the chirping of crickets and the breeze flowing through the shadowy greens. As we glided into the cul de sac, dark, bulky shapes of the spa and hotel buildings greeted us in the wake of the glowing lights of the restaurant.

Tranquil — just one word that encompasses the atmosphere of Ananda in the Himalayas. Ananda in Hindi means "bliss" and this was what we were seeking during our two-night stay in the Conde Nast Traveller-winner 13 kilometres away from the Hindu holy city of Rishikesh in Uttarakhand. Once the palace of the Maharaja of Tehri, the guest palace and its surrounding 100-acre land were converted into a spa resort ten years ago. We got off the buggy in front of the restaurant and dragged our tired, starving selves to our table. The troublesome journey from Delhi, which should have been completed in about nine hours, had stretched into more than half the day. As it is we had taken the longer route trying to avoid the Kumbh Mela in Haridwar, crossing which would have had us arrive in about seven hours.

The salad and dessert buffets close by were tempting. We tucked into some greens while waiting for the Indian main course. Dinner set menus come with two options — Indian and international. Soon, two huge silver platters were placed before us. Each contained silver bowls filled with chicken curry, dal and vegetarian side dishes. The flavourful Dehraduni rice and hot tandoori rotis were enough incentive for us and we savoured each morsel. Still, we were unable to finish the platter. Based on Ayurvedic dietary principles, the menu offers a balanced diet three times a day. It also displays the number of calories for each dish. Meals included with most packages are, however, created based on the individual body constitution of the guests.

Satiated, we trudged in the dark to our third-floor rooms. The moonlit lawns were beckoning us to stop for a while but we just couldn't. Interestingly, we had to ride the elevator down to our floor. The little wooden bridge connecting the path to the hotel is on the fifth floor.

Greetings from the resort

The chirping of the crickets was replaced by the cooing of peacocks as day dawned. Sipping coffee on the balcony, I took a quick look at the itinerary of activities presented to us after the traditional reception on arrival. I was slightly disappointed by the wall of grassy bank that blocked my view of the palace. I would have preferred a room with a valley view, a glimpse of which I caught when Abhishek Sharma, the front-office manager, took me on a tour of the property.

Togging myself in the comfy complimentary white kurta pyjamas (Indian tunic suit) — you'll find guests roaming around in them the whole day — I made my way to the amphitheatre for a yoga session. Practising yoga for the past few months, I found the session a bit mild. The reason for this, as Anupam Dasgupta, the general manager, later explained, was that the resort offered more of a meditative rather than a physical alternative to yoga.

Later, we sat at the Tree Top Deck outside the restaurant (simply known as The Restaurant), a pleasant spot to breakfast or dine amid nature. Going by the number of guests breakfasting, the resort seemed full. On the table next to ours sat one of India's famous industrialists, probably to offer prayers during the Kumbh Mela — we found him performing a havan on the banks of the Ganga later in the evening.

Touring the property with Sharma provided some breathtaking views. The sunset point is an ideal romantic spot, with its single bench, while the Music Pavilion in the garden is a sight in itself. Apart from the Valley View suite, the terraces of the Viceregal suite in the Guest Palace, its walls full of photographs of guests from different parts of India during the Maharaja's rule, provide some great views all round.

Deciding to explore some of the views, we took the half-hour drive to Rishikesh in the late afternoon. The driver dropped us at Muni Ki Reti, a name I remembered from a childhood visit. Literally meaning "the sands of the sages" and metaphorically the "dust of the sages' feet", it's a bustling area on the banks of the Ganga. The highlight of the city is, however, the two suspension bridges, Ram Jhula and Lakshman Jhula.

Cultural homage

We took the ferry to the banks of Gita Bhawan below Ram Jhula, where the aarti (prayers offered with lighted lamps) of the Ganga takes place at dusk. Despite its religious connotation, it's more of a social and cultural ritual. However, this was nothing compared to the same ritual held in Haridwar. We walked back to the city via the Ram Jhula. By the time we returned to the hotel, it was dinnertime and the restaurant was full. Remembering our experience from last evening, we decided to order smaller portions from the à la carte menu. Delicious spicy chicken and lamb kebabs were served with dal makhani and naan. Once again we skipped dessert and decided to walk the lawns. After a quick round, it was difficult to resist lying down on the sweet-smelling grass and watch the starry sky. The low sounds of the flute floated from the restaurant, further calming our senses. This tranquil experience continued the next day at the spa. Why else would I fall asleep on the treatment table? The spa offers therapeutic treatments based on the traditional principles of Ayurveda, yoga and meditation, along with European and Thai treatments. Based on a profile sent earlier, I was advised the Fusion treatment. Seema's expert hands and poultices containing sea salts and traditional Indian spices took away my weariness and tension.

Spa delights

An hour later, she led me back to the women's relaxing room, which has the hydrotherapy facilities such as the Jacuzzi, steam, sauna and the chill pool. A round water pool with four temperature areas stood in the centre of the room. This is a Kneipp foot bath, very good for the regulation of blood pressure. You also have the option of turning your bathroom into a spa. Order from the bath menu or just soak in the bath salts provided. You can also avail of a range of beauty treatments, body wraps, skincare and aromatherapy.

If you are in the mood, the resort offers a host of outdoor adventures. But for me, being at the resort was thrilling enough. Two days are certainly not enough and I envied the guests who had booked themselves in for at least a week, if not longer, as we bade goodbye to the resort.

Packages and rates

The resort has 70 deluxe rooms and five suites, including the Viceregal Suite with a private terrace and a rooftop Jacuzzi. There are three villas with living room, pantry, private sauna and swimming pool. All rooms have private balconies.

Packages until April 30 start from three nights:

Room: $1,570 (Dh5,767) for a single and $2,090 (Dh7,677) for a double.

Deluxe suites: $2,220 (Dh8,155); Ananda Suite: $2,785 (Dh10,230); and Viceregal suite: $3,230 (Dh11,864).

Villas: $3,230 (Dh11,864)

Most packages include spa and beauty treatments, meals and complimentary transfers to and from Haridwar railway station and the Dehradun airport and railway stations.

The resort can be accessed via air, rail and road. If you are not driving down directly, a pick-up-and-drop facility is also available to Dehradun airport and train stations in Dehradun and Haridwar. Ananda also has a private helipad available for chartered flights from New Delhi

Activities

For those inclined to the outdoors, the resort and the Rishikesh area provide ample opportunities for trekking, nature walks and birdwatching. A hike to the ancient Kunjapuri temple is one of the favourites with guests. You can also go for white-water rafting, kayaking and angling in the Ganga. Come close to indigenous fauna at the Rajaji and Chilla National Parks. If nothing else, go putting on the resort lawns.

Rishikesh: The Land of the Sages

Despite being a Hindu holy city, Rishikesh is a great draw for foreign tourists as well. Not only do Hindus begin pilgrimages from here but nature lovers too begin their journey here, as it's the gateway to the Himalayas. Located on the banks of the River Ganga, Rishikesh was catapulted to fame when the Beatles visited Maharishi Mahesh Yogi's ashram in the late 1960s. Even today, the city is known as the world capital of yoga due to the numerous yoga centres in the area. The area is popular with yogis from all over the world as the climate is ideal, unlike those higher up in the Himalayas. The city has also been a spiritual centre due to the Ganga and the well-known sages and deities who conducted penance here. It is here that the Ganga enters the plains. Moreover, it's accessible from other cities in northern India. So if you are looking for a quick, relaxing break, Rishikesh is an ideal option.

Getting there