Motley tales of an antique land

Ever heard of Guanajuato? Probably not. Neither had we when our group of friends decided to visit Mexico.

It is one of the prettiest cities in the country, with a history as colourful as the houses that seem to cascade down the hillside.

There is a vibgyor of hues, interspersed with lush greenery and rooftops soaring between majestic domes of cathedrals and basilicas. The city was declared a World Heritage Site in 1988.

How it was named

The name comes from the Tarascan word guanashuato, which means the “mountainous place of frogs''.

In the 15th century, the area was thickly forested and inhabited by tribes.

The Chichimecas saw a mountain which looked like a frog, an animal they worshipped and thought was a spirit which looked after them.

So despite being nomads, they settled there and the frog attained a special place in their culture.

Guanajuato dates back to the 16th century, when it started as a Spanish mining camp.

As more and more silver deposits were found, the number of mines increased and, eventually, Guanajuato became a wealthy city.

Gradual development

For 250 years, the La Valencia mine produced 20 per cent of the silver mined throughout the world.

As an act of thanksgiving, many colossal cathedrals were built.

As the region flowered into a cultural centre, theatres and mansions of silver barons also came up.

Guanajuato is also a centre of learning. The University of Guanajuato has a count of 20,000 students.

The young crowd gives the city a youthful vibrancy against the backdrop of colonial architecture.

The year's cultural calendar features festivals of dance, music and drama — the entire place seems to be buzzing with energy.

The city, built on a hillside, is at an altitude of 2,000 metres and seems to have been built without any particular plan.

The streets are a maze of cobbled lanes, most of which are for pedestrians only.

However, it is a charming network of pathways. The houses, painted in a variety of hues — ranging from ochre to warm pink and sunny blues — make up quite a palette.

Crest a hill and you can see a medley of houses in colours that seem to glow in the warm sunshine — it is an incredible sight.

But the real charm of the city lies in exploring the alleys, the hidden stairs, the small churches, the quiet plazas, the winding lanes and the serene little gardens, courtyards and, sometimes, dead ends.

You just have to backtrack after you're through and start exploring another lane.

A walk through the heart of the city is a must. Every corner leads to an enchanting view.

It could be a devotional niche, a fountain in a patch of greenery, a statue at the entrance of a nobleman's mansion — it's like taking a peep into a medieval world.

A popular spot for photography is Guanajuato's very own Romeo-Juliet story — the Alley of the Kiss.

Legend has it that a nobleman's daughter fell in love with a miner but was forbidden to meet him.

So he took a room in a building across her's and since the two buildings almost touched, the couple used to exchange furtive kisses.

The lovers, however, were caught and their story ended on a tragic note.

Rife with history

Another folkloric point of the city is the colossal statue of El Pipila.

The statue stands as a monument to Juan Jose Martinez (El Pipila), who became a hero in the war of independence — he is said to have strapped a flat stone to his back to protect him from Spanish rifles and had set the door of the Spanish granary on fire.

This was what led to the victory of the Mexicans. The magnificent Basilica of Guanajuato is another monument every visitor should not miss.

The city's buildings are lit up at night and the streets packed with tourists and youngsters.

Roadside restaurants are full, music from bands fills the air and the heart of the city throbs with an unrestrained energy.
Fascinating customs

The callejonedas, which began as a Spanish tradition, have become an intrinsic part of the music scene.

In this, a group of professional singers and dancers in traditional garb gather at the cathedral and move through the city, singing and dancing.

City folk surge forward to join the parade and the crowd swells as tourists get caught in the frenzy and join in.

Another custom is the strolling minstrels in medieval garb — the callejoneadas — who serenade passers-by.

But what of the folklore surrounding the frog? Giant statues painted in brilliant hues and patterns say it all.

— Nirmal Khanna is a UAE-based freelance journalist

Go there... Guanajuato

From the UAE ... From Dubai


Air France flies daily via Paris to Mexico City (Guanajuato is a 5-hour bus ride away)
Fare: Dh8,670

KLM Royal Dutch Airlines flies daily via Amsterdam
Fare: Dh7,920

Information courtesy:
The Holiday Lounge by Dnata
Phone: 04-4298576