Love at every sight

“Come to Agra and stay next to the Taj Mahal'' was the invitation. “Yeah, and goats will fly'' was my response. But it was true.

When I opened the window of my room at the Amarvilas hotel, the Taj Mahal — the most photographed monument in the world and one of the Seven Wonders — was within shouting distance.

White wonder

Framed by the window, the white marble monument, symbolic of eternal love, was clearly visible.

The huge dome, flanked by imposing minarets, glistening in the morning light, seemed to be nestled in a bed of verdant treetops. It was magical.

Reams have been written about the Taj Mahal and libraries could be filled with its photographs.

Despite several trips to see the marble monument — with its perfect proportions, flanked by soaring minarets, inlaid with semiprecious stones — one can never tire of seeing it again and again.

Be it sunrise or sunset, full moon or blazing sunlight, the white marble seems to shimmer, driving photographers berserk as they try to capture moods and nuances of the mausoleum and artists struggling to reproduce the delicate lines and elegance of the magnificent memorial.

The Taj Mahal is considered one of the finest examples of Mogul architecture, with lines that combine the elements of Persian, Ottoman, Indian and Islamic styles.

In 1983, it was declared a World Heritage Site by Unesco and it is one of the Seven Wonders of the World.

Tomb of inspiration

Built by Emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal, who died giving birth to their 14th child, the mausoleum is one of most recognisable sights in the world.

The inspiration for this spectacular tomb seems to have come from the Gur-e-Amir, the mausoleum of Timur (the progenitor of the Mogul dynasty) in Samarqand, Uzbekistan.

The marble dome is the most spectacular part of the Taj Mahal. With the height at 35 metres almost the same as the base, it forms a huge, imposing structure.

Each surface is inlaid with semiprecious stones or carved with bas-reliefs.

Verses from the Quran adorn many arches, with the gate carrying the most meaningful lines: “Oh soul, thou are at rest. Return to the Lord at peace with Him and He at peace with you.''

The main chamber has two “false'' sarcophagi and the actual tombs are in a lower chamber.

Muslim tradition forbids elaborate decoration of tombs, so the graves of Mumtaz Mahal and Shah Jahan are simple. They lie here in adjoining tombs with their faces turned towards Makkah.

Every surface is decorated with carvings: a herringbone pattern on some columns, plant motifs on marble walls, spandrel detail on others, incised painting and delicate jali work on archways.

Although the splendid tomb with four minarets is how we know the Taj Mahal, it is actually a cluster of buildings.

Leading to the magnificent focal point are formal gardens and waterways, all cleverly constructed to draw your attention to the mausoleum.

Walking in through a huge gate, the Darwaza-i-Rauzza, you will find raised pathways, pools and waterways flanked by stone-edged flowerbeds.

Exquisite architecture

The Moguls were known for their fondness for gardens but with the waning of the dynasty, the garden fell into disrepair.

Later, these were restored by the British, with the landscaping resembling the gardens in London.

There are two grand sandstone buildings at the end of the complex — the western one is a mosque and the one opposite is the jawab, or answer, which was probably constructed for architectural balance.

The only difference is that the jawab does not have a mihrab, or a niche in the wall, facing Makkah.

Crenellated red sandstone walls surround the Taj Mahal on three sides, with the fourth side open to the Yamuna River, which, over the centuries, has changed its course and moved away.

Outside, there are modest mausoleums for Shah Jahan's lesser wives and one for Mumtaz Mahal's favourite servant.

But there is a lot more to see in Agra and the surrounding areas. Of primary importance is Fatehpur Sikri, once the capital of Emperor Akbar, the fort where Shah Jahan was imprisoned after being dethroned by his son Aurangzeb.

He is said to have spent his last years looking at the Taj Mahal where his beloved wife was buried.

Another must-visit is Itmad Ud Daula's tomb, also known as the Baby Taj. This was built by Nur Jehan, wife of Jahangir, for her father Mirza Ghiyas Beg, also the grandfather of Mumtaz Mahal, wife of Shah Jahan.

The trip was courtesy of Jet Airways, India Tourism Board and The Oberoi Group of hotels

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Facts and figures

The Amarvilas hotel

One of the stars in the Oberoi group's chain of luxury hotels, it is ranked among the top resorts of the world and has been featured on the cover of Architectural Digest and Conde Nast Traveller among other prestigious magazines.

The company, having acquired land about 600 yards from the Taj Mahal, faced challenges in the design and construction of the hotel. Apart from zoning laws, just being so close to such an important monument had its own set of problems.

Mumbai-based architect Prabhat Patki's brief was to create a haven for guests that would match the grandeur of the monument they would visit.

Since a contemporary style so close to the Taj Mahal would be incongruous and the traditional Indian style would have competed with it, a fusion seemed perfect.

According to local regulations, the building could not be higher than the Taj Mahal.

So, to ensure that all 112 suites had a view of the marble monument, the hotel was stretched out and some of the corridors angled.

There are colonnaded areas, frescoes, fountains and gardens in the hotel and the ambience is that of Mogul opulence and regal style.