Fort-right beauty

After a couple of fun-filled days at the Country Club Bush Betta Resort in Bandipur (where we didn't see any big cats), Rajeev Reddy, the founder, chairman and managing director of the Country Club Group, insisted we spend a night at the group's flagship property Amrutha Castle in Hyderabad. Today, it's part of Best Western Hotels.

European comfort

The hotel is modelled on the Schloss Neuschwanstein Castle in Bavaria. A boutique hotel, it promises guests a very European experience in the middle of the hustle and bustle of an Indian city. You also get to sleep in the “arms'' of King Arthur and his knights, and Merlin the magician.

Now don't let your vivid imagination run riot. Each of the rooms or suites is named after one of these legendary beings (I think mine was “Galahad'').

We had a very long day, having driven to Bangalore from Bandipur and then flying in the evening to Hyderabad. So after a hearty dinner of Hyderabadi biryani and kebabs at the hotel, we retired early. As we had only the day in town, we wanted to do as much as we possibly could.

It may be known as the City of Pearls but Hyderabad is rich in history too. We kept the shopping for later in the day and headed first to one of the city's famous historical landmarks — the Golconda Fort.

Hallmark of war

This 13th-century fort is a massive granite structure spread over 7 kilometres. Considered a hallmark of excellence in military architecture, the fort is one of the grandest in the country.

Legend has it that in 1143, on Mangalavaram, a rocky hill, a shepherd boy came across an idol. Once the Kakatiya ruler learnt of this, he decided to build a mud fort at the site and called it golla konda, or “shepherd's hill''.

But it was given the glory we witness today in its ruins by the Qutub Shahi rulers of the 16th century.

The fort houses four forts in its circumference, along with palaces and mosques. The Fateh Darwaza, or the Victory Gate, is the main entry and famous for its acoustics.

“Clap,'' said the guide, “and the person standing a kilometre away can hear you.'' The acoustics were used to communicate between different points in the area. What we missed was the sound-and-light show that happens in the evening.

From there we drove to the Salar Jung Museum. The museum was established in 1951 by the government of India, as Mir Yousuf Ali Khan aka Salar Jung III had no direct descendants. Diwan Deodi, where the museum is located, was the actual residence of Salar Jung III.

In 1961, through an Act of Parliament, the government declared the museum and library an Institution of National Importance. It houses artefacts from India, the Middle East, the Far East and Europe, ranging from the 2nd century BC to the 20th century AD.

Among its treasures is an illuminated Quran, a standing figure of the Buddha from the 3rd century, ivory chairs said to have been presented by Louis XVI of France to Tipu Sultan of Mysore and other weapons and armour used by Mughal emperors and Tipu Sultan.

Spice world

By the time we finished touring the museum, it was time for lunch. Hyderabad is also famous for its cuisine. As we had tasted the famous biryani the previous evening, it was time to sample bhangare baigan (spiced eggplant curry), mirchi ka saalan (chilli curry) and haleem (meat porridge).

These are available in any decent eatery in the city. We soothed our palates (of course, after all this spicy food) with sheer korma (vermicelli pudding).

Stuffed, it was difficult to do much sightseeing after this. So we took a drive through the city before going to the hotel to fetch our luggage. With the drive, we learnt that Hyderabad is also a city of gardens and amusement parks.

Lush patches

Lumbini Park is one of them, near the Hussain Sagar. We'd passed it in the morning. The list would be too long if I started mentioning them all but the Public Gardens and the Kasu Brahmanda Reddy National Park are probably the more popular ones.

Too sleepy from our meal, the names our guide threw at us during the drive passed away more or less in a blur.

Our flight was at 9pm and once we checked out, we headed to our final stop before the airport — the bangle market near Charminar Fort, the monument that is the city's emblem. Mohammad Quli Qutub Shah built the Charminar in 1591.

You need to climb 149 steps to reach the top of the fort.
Each of its four 55-metre-tall minarets provide an amazing view of the bustling city around it. Sadly, there was no time for that.

We got off at the landmark. The most famous of Hyderabadi bangles are the lacquered ones, moulded out of lac and studded with glitter, cut glass and beads.

An essential Indian fashion accessory, these come in vivid colours. But durability demanded a change and metal bangles with traditional designs are now in vogue too. But I've always preferred the glass ones.

Bangles to the dozen

I watched as the shopkeeper counted each (most bangle sellers give you a baker's dozen if you ask for a dozen) and packed it carefully in old newspaper and cardboard boxes.

“Don't worry, madam,'' said the shopkeeper. “This will go with you safely all the way to Amrika [the USA].''

Dusk was beginning to fall as we mingled with the rush-hour traffic and headed towards the airport. Someone wanted to buy biryani.

The driver had almost turned towards a famous shop that packs it well enough to be carried to “Amrika'' when we realised we cannot hand-carry food on-board.

It wasn't just the biryani we had missed. We had missed visiting the pearl shops too. But jewellery shopping should never be rushed. And Hyderabad isn't going anywhere.

Go there ... Hyderabad ... From the UAE

From Dubai

Emirates flies daily. Fare from Dh1,615

Indian Airlines flies daily. Fare from Dh1,615

— Information courtesy: The Holiday Lounge by Dnata.
Ph: 04 4380454