Far east fantasy: Korea Calling

Sandwiched between the vastness of China to the west and Japan to the east, South Korea can plunge you into a whole new experience of the Far East.

It has never been easier to reach from Dubai, with Emirates flying daily non-stop to Seoul, which means you can be there in less than nine hours.

New sights, new smells

For the new visitor, the first thing that will strike you is the aroma. That's your first encounter with kimchi, the national dish of Korea. The smell of the garlic and red pepper dish, which Koreans eat with every meal, permeates just about everywhere. It's not unpleasant, just different. Within hours you'll hardly notice it.

The second, especially coming from the flat expanses of the UAE, is the topography – exuberantly green and mountainous. Even the capital Seoul is dominated by Namsan, the mountain in the centre of the city alongside which the Grand Hyatt Hotel sits above the vibrant café culture and night life of Itaewon, one of the main "expat" areas.

I could spend weeks in Seoul, where vestiges of this ancient country's past nestle alongside futuristic buildings. But this visit is to see my family (my wife is Korean) who live in Masan on the South Coast and then on for a family holiday with my three- and six-year-old sons on Jeju, a sub-tropical island just an hour's flight away.

Jeju island

Jeju, just 73km by 31km, is dominated by the 1,950-metre peak of Hallasan (Mount Halla), an extinct volcano.

Renting a car here is essential unless you are on an organised tour, as the attractions are spread out and driving on largely empty roads is an absolute joy.

If you don't speak or read Korean, or are not accompanied by someone who does, then head for the nearest Tourist Information Office to pick up guidebooks and maps in English.

We started our whirlwind trip with a visit to the dolphin show at Pacific World at the Jungmun Tourist Resort, which the children adored, before heading to the nearby three-tiered Cheonjeyeon waterfalls, where mythology has it that seven angels descend each night to bathe.

Jeju's sub-tropical climate makes it an ideal place for citrus to grow, and the island's tangerines are much sought after and must be sampled. In spring the groves are teeming with them.

The next two days were a blur of activities too numerous to mention, but the highlights for the children were the visits to a Dinosaur Park, a submarine descent 30 metres beneath the sea to a coral reef and the show at Elephant Land with a chance to feed the huge animals, though we were shocked to encounter two camels there – you just can't escape them sometimes!

For the adults the highlights were the food, walks on unspoilt beaches, sitting serenely beneath mountains, breathing clean air and the spectacular basalt coastline of an island that has drawn comparisons with Hawaii. In three days we only scratched the surface of this wonderful place. If you like holidays with a difference, then Korea – and Jeju – should be next on your list.

How to get there and get about

Package tours

Emirates Holidays have luxury packages which take in the major sights of Seoul and Jeju Island.

A seven-day package including four nights at the Grand Hyatt in Seoul and two nights on Jeju Island, including breakfast and English-speaking tour guide starts from Dh17,020. More details at www.emirates-holidays.com.

Independent travel

Fly with Emirates airline (www.emirates.com) non-stop to Seoul. Economy class return fare, including taxes, is Dh4,320.

In Seoul, use the subway. If taking a taxi, have your destination written in Korean as most drivers do not speak English. To rent a car you need an international licence.

Accommodation

In Jeju we stayed in a pension (self-catering apartment) in Jungmun and rented a car. Three nights' accommodation and car hire for a family of four cost 600,000 won (Dh2,100).

Eating

Food is fantastic and cheap in Korea. Visit cafés serving home-made noodles, soups and dumplings. Seafood is plentiful, fruit is superb and barbecues are legendary, with bulgogi (marinated beef) the most famous.

Climate

Korea has four distinct seasons. Winter is bitterly cold while summer is warm and humid.

More information

If you go to Jeju you must

Taste kimchi. Go to the dolphin show. Eat tangerines. Visit Cheonjeyeon falls and walk across the bridge of the seven fairies. Walk on the beach at Jungmun. Pose on a horse under Sanbangsan mountain. Descend 30 metres beneath the sea in a submarine at Seongsan. Stroll around the preserved folk village at Pyoseon. See the Dinosaur Theme Park. Enjoy the show at Elephant Land. Make a wish at Seongsan Ilchulbong (Sunrise Peak) and eat cactus chocolates!