Cusco offers the best of both worlds

Few in our region may have heard of Cusco, once the capital of the Inca Empire.

Now with the forthcoming Gulf for Good challenge supporting a charity in the picturesque city, it is very much in the news.

The participants of the adventure challenge will meet in Cusco, savour the sights, check out a school project and take the alternative trail up to the famed Machu Picchu.

Cusco, adapted from the original Quechua name Qosqo, nestled in a verdant valley, is a wonderful blend of Inca and Spanish features.

When Peru became independent in 1821, there was a fierce revival of the Quechua spirit — its customs and traditions.

Carnivals and festivals celebrating Andean traditions were combined with equally strong Spanish church rituals. Now it is difficult to tell where one heritage ends and the other begins.

This fascinating blend led to the city being granted the status of a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1983, putting it firmly in the tourist limelight.

Legend has it ...

The Inca story is full of legends. It is said that in the 12th century, Manco Capac and Mama Ocllo, children of the Sun and Moon, set out to establish their kingdom.

When they reached Huantanay, he was able to thrust his staff into the ground until it vanished.

This was taken as a divine sign that it was the right place.

According to recorded history, in 1438, Pachacutec (the name means World Shaker) the Inca went on an expansion campaign.

Cusco, the capital of the powerful empire, was a city of wide roads, huge temples and palaces adorned with gold, all examples of their unmatched stone architecture.

In 1533, Francisco Pizzaro arrived with his Spanish legions, defeated the Incas and took control.

The conquerors were dazzled by the wealth of their booty and ruled with an iron fist.

Strong foundation

Temples were destroyed and churches constructed on the foundations. However, ironically, the Spanish structures have become derelict while the Inca edifices remain intact.

The Spanish built magnificent cathedrals, such as the much-admired Iglesia de la Compania, and in the 17th and the 18th centuries also established the Cusco School of Art. There is a thriving colony of artists in the picturesque area of San Blas even today.

The square at the top of the hill is crowned by a church and the surrounding area dotted with art galleries and handicraft shops.

The blend of Andean and Spanish customs and traditions gives the city a unique ambience. Besides, the picture-perfect setting makes it a must for every visitor in Peru.

Cusco is best seen and admired on foot. The city square, Plaza de Armas, is huge and flanked by colonnaded buildings. The imposing La Catedral seems to watch over the gardens and languid pace of life.

Call of the quaint

Exquisitely carved wooden balconies jutting out over cobbled streets, seem to be everywhere and quaint shops selling handicrafts and Quecha women wearing layered skirts, stovepipe hats over long, black plaits — many with babies strapped to their backs — are regular sights in the city.

The construction of the huge, ornate La Catedral began in 1560 and took almost 100 years to finish.

Built on the remains of the palace of the eighth Inca ruler, Viracocha, the structure uses red granite slabs from the fortress of Sacsayhuaman, located just outside the city.

A blend of Renaissance and Baroque elements, the building is filled with exquisite paintings and embellished with plundered Inca gold.

24-karat beauty

Koricancha (Golden Enclosures) was built in honour of the sun deity and is reputed to be the richest Inca temple.

With walls plated with gold and dotted with precious stones, it was a treasure trove for the Spanish, who destroyed the temple and built a church and convent on its foundations.

This, again, is a remarkable blend of the two architectural styles.

Sacsayhuaman, located on the outskirts of the city, is an impressive example of military architecture, with three ramparts made of stone, which at times rise to a height of 17 feet and weigh 350 tonnes.

— Nirmal Khanna is a UAE-based freelance writer

Go there . . . Cusco . . . From the UAE

From Dubai

Lima is the closest airport. Domestic flights from Lima to Cusco on Lan Peru is between Dh1500-Dh1700. Visitors may take a bus too.

KLM flies daily via Amsterdam.
Fare from Dh9,915
To buy local airline tickets log on to these websites:

— Information courtesy: The Holiday Lounge by Dnata. Ph: 04 4380454

Hotspot of handicraft

Peru, especially Cusco and its surroundings, is known for its handicrafts. As in their customs, the old and the new have merged seamlessly.

Wool from the alpaca and vicuna is woven into ponchos, shawls and gloves, with designs both ancient and modern.

The same is true of textiles, jewellery of gold and silver and an amazing array of pottery, many with Incan designs.

Gilded altarpieces in wood and plaster are snapped up by tourists while some are more intent on the San Blas area of watercolours.

I succumbed to the charm of a warrior carved from wood and silver, whom I christened King Pachacutec. The buy, though a superb piece, made a hole in my pocket.

Hit the streets to celebrate

The Cusco calendar is packed with festivals, parades and carnivals, in which the Quechua population from the surrounding areas participate.

This is one time that locals outnumber tourists.

One of the main festivals is Inti Raymi, which is celebrated on June 24. It dates back to the Incas and marks a sacrifice to the sun deity.

It was banned by the Catholic church but has made a comeback.

There are also some festivals with delightful, albeit outrageous, names.

One is devoted to “The Lord of Tremors''. Around Easter, there is a parade with effigies of saints instead of the traditional Inca mummies. Another one features “The Brown Christ'' and “The Crimson Flower''.

Cusco dwellers love to celebrate: From harvests to legends and church rituals, they dress up and parade the streets, which are packed with onlookers.

We were fortunate enough to witness a parade, complete with bands, in which elders and children alike took to the streets to rejoice.

Dressed in tribal finery, they danced, marched and enacted scenes from myths and history.