Coming home to Kiev

As a young girl, I would spend afternoons perched upon my grandfather's knee, spellbound by his stories about growing up in Ukraine.

His tales were filled with the romance of a bygone era and the drama of Soviet rule and two world wars.

His words sounded as though they were lifted straight from the pages of Dr Zhivago and I was captivated by a world so removed from my relatively normal childhood in suburban Australia.

Finding one's roots

So when offered a chance to explore my ancestral homeland, I literally leapt at it. This would be the first chance since the fall of the USSR that a member of my immediate family had been allowed within the Ukrainian borders.

I dreamt of mingling with sweet babushkas and handsome Cossacks over meals of authentic delicacies — borsch, stuffed cabbage rolls and potato dumplings — food that was reserved for special occasions at my grandfather's table.

Nowadays, there are plenty of cities that label themselves the “undiscovered Prague'', for example, only to disappoint upon arrival, thanks to a healthy backpacker population that can be spotted in every corner in your so-called hidden gem, with guidebook in hand.

It's not said lightly when I suggest that the Ukrainian capital Kiev is still a destination unspoilt by the tourist hordes.

A five-hour flight from Dubai on Ukrainian International Airlines is the key to unlocking one of Europe's oldest cities.

And while it hasn't escaped the stamp of the Soviet era, much of its architecture reflects the beauty of an earlier, more genteel time.

Charming views

The city stands on a series of wooded hills, which allows for a number of vantage points to take in the multitude of monasteries or the expansive Dnieper River, which is populated with charming leisure cruises during summer.

My four-day itinerary began with a tour of the city's architectural feats, including Independence Square.

Found in Kiev's heart, it was catapulted to international spotlight in 2004, when thousands of Ukrainians gathered in winter to protest against electoral fraud in what has since been dubbed the Orange Revolution.

Changed times

Throughout history, the square has been the seat of Ukraine's political unrest. But these days, it is home to pleasure seekers rather than activists.

On weekends, the Khreshschatik Boulevard that borders the lower end of the square is closed to traffic, allowing street life to roam free under the watchful eye of its protector, the Slavic deity, Berehynia.

A visit to Ukraine is not complete without taking in the Saint Sophia Cathedral and the Pecherska Lavra Monastery (or Monastery of the Caves) — the only two sites in the country to be awarded Unesco World Heritage status.

Built in the 11th century by St Vladimir to rival Constantinople's Hagia Sophia, the cathedral is found in central Kiev and is easily recognised, thanks to its vibrant green and gold domes.

Under Stalin, Saint Sophia was in danger of being destroyed but, fortunately, it managed to withstand the Communist regime, so that visitors can still enjoy its many intricate, gilded frescoes and mosaics.

Strange but beautiful

Despite the ostentatious splendour of Saint Sophia, no attraction in Kiev can compete with the eerie Pecherska Lavra Monastery.

Cut into the hillside is a series of catacombs that date back to 1015 and house ancient remains of Orthodox monks and saints.

My tour group is taken to the site on Sunday, which only serves to enhance the experience, as hundreds of devout pilgrims were there to worship.

They journey

underground through back-bending tunnels to pray in the chapels and kneel at the glass coffins of the mummified saints.

With the odd skeleton peeking out from beneath the elaborate robes, it can be an unsettling experience, especially for those who already suffer from claustrophobia.

But with the assistance of candlelight, you can shuffle quietly through the complex labyrinth into fresh air.

Marks of war

For a completely different change of landscape, we are taken to the Museum of the Great Patriotic War.

If you haven't already guessed, the museum was constructed when Ukraine was still part of the USSR, to commemorate those who fought against the invading Germans during the Second World War.

The forecourt to the museum is littered with the paraphernalia of war but what is most intriguing are the massive sculptures that illustrate the might of Soviet resolve, including the 62-metre-tall Motherland monument, who wields her sword and shield from a peak above the Dnieper.

With old Communist songs blasted from speakers, it's easy to forget that Ukraine celebrated its independence almost 18 years ago.

But it's not until we're taken to Andreevsky Spusk, one of Kiev's oldest streets, that I am introduced to my babushka. She's not the living, breathing variety but a wooden nesting doll — otherwise known as matroshka — purchased from the lively souvenir market.

The setting for our meeting could not have been more perfect, with the Baroque-style Church of St Andrew in the background and couples making their way up the meandering cobblestoned street.

It's at this moment that I truly comprehend my grandfathers nostalgia for Kiev.

Go there ... Kiev ... From the UAE ... From Dubai

Aeroflot flies daily via Moscow. Fare from Dh1,565

Aerosvit flies four days a week. Fare from Dh1,275

— Information courtesy: The Holiday Lounge by Dnata. Ph: 04 4380454

Ukrainian International Airlines offers three flights a week direct from Dubai to Kiev. For more details, visit www.ukraine-international.com

Where to stay

Raddisson SAS Hotel

Premier Palace Hotel