Come fly with me: Kathmandu call

It was a Sunday morning in the downtown Thamel district of Kathmandu. I had gone in search of warm gear for the mountains. Thamel seemed to be the trekking equivalent of Khao San Road in Bangkok — buzzing with motorbikes and cars honking through small alleys. Looking around me, this seemed like the base camp for all those who wanted to go trekking, white-water rafting, on jungle safaris and other adventurous expeditions.

There was the sound of classical music coming from one side of the street and from elsewhere, a luring smell of incense, which blended with the music. As I walked into Mount Makalu trekking shop, a taxi playing Bollywood music in full blast drove past and drowned out the medley of sounds around me.

I found all sorts of North Face products in the Mount Makalu shop and all at cheaper prices, which I could bring down further. I'm sure some of it was fake but it all seemed of good quality, so I ended up buying a rucksack, warm socks and a down jacket.

As I walked out of the shop and into the brightness outside, I found a man cutting lemons, ready to serve fresh juice to passers-by. Further ahead, someone played a tune on a sarangi, a violin-like instrument.

Just as I turned into the next street, taking in the display of puppets, cards, warm clothing and tapestries in shops, a pile of bright shawls caught my eye. Krishna Wool Centre had every colour, from bright pink streaked with green and orange to the melting shades of blue and purple. They were so warm that I just had to buy one, despite the lack of space in my suitcase.

Out on the main wider street, I was ready to take a cab back to my hotel but, instead, sat for a quick lunch at Fire and Ice — one of the best pizzerias in Kathmandu. The wholesome pumpkin soup and penne pesto I opted to share with a friend arrived promptly and was entirely satisfying.

Full to the brim, we crossed the road and noticed a beautiful door with a sign for Swapna Bagaicha, or Garden of Dreams. On entering, it really did feel a thousand miles away from the hippy ambience outside. I wasn't sure what these gardens were meant for (there was apparently a café, which was closed then) but it would have been an ideal place to sit and eat in the evening.

I wondered as I got into a cab, with a heavy backpack full of shopping, why I wasn't yet sure of what I thought of Kathmandu or whether I really liked it. Maybe I would get a better sense of it, on my trip to Pashupatinath Temple and the Sleeping Vishnu.