“Welcome to the Pearl of Africa'' is the sign that greets you as you land at the small, uncrowded Entebbe Airport in Uganda.
My husband and I had come on our first trip to Africa to visit our son. Alighting from the Emirates aircraft after a seven-hour flight from Dubai, we were headed for the capital city of Kampala, a 45-minute drive from the airport.
Safe alternative
Our son assured us that Uganda, after many years of tribal conflict, was now safe for travellers.
We soon discovered that the country was also a wonderful alternative to the more populated and developed neighbouring Kenya.
A small, landlocked country in east Africa, located on the Equator, Uganda has a near-perfect climate, with an average 27°C, mainly due to the elevation of 1,100 to 2,000 metres.
The country had once been a British colony and the soft, lilting English the Ugandans speak is similar to a Caribbean dialect.
“You are most welcome, please'' was how we were received at hotels, restaurants, shops and game parks.
Though the country has had a violent past, it is a nation of friendly people. We were pleasantly surprised that a woman guided us three blocks on our search for an ATM in Kampala.
Wealth of wildlife
Driving five and a half hours northwest from Kampala to Murchison Falls National Park, the largest game park in the country, is the best way to see Uganda.
You can take a daily flight on Eagle Air but in doing so, you will miss the close-up views of the tropical foliage, red-earth fields, glimpses of wildlife, villages of small, round mud huts with thatched roofs and people walking on the highway, carrying baskets of firewood or green banana on their heads.
Two hours into the journey you can stop for a break at the Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary to track rhinos with a ranger.
The Paraa Safari Lodge is on the banks of the Victoria Nile inside the park. It offers the comfort of luxury rooms, with three meals a day, which can be served on a veranda overlooking a river.
Decorated with ethnic materials such as dark wood, hand-woven straw and thatch and pictures of British explorations in Africa, the guest rooms have private balconies overlooking the Nile.
The large swimming pool offers a cool break after a day in the bushes. It is a spectacular spot from where to watch the Sun set over the Nile.
Luos people come after dark to sing and perform native dances around a campfire.
A four-hour ride on a boat down the Nile to the falls is a must. However, you need to book in advance.
From the upper deck, you can catch glimpses of hundreds of hippos submerged in the river or grazing on the shores.
Paraa means “hippo'' in Luo, the native language of the region and the creatures are abundantly available in the region.
Surprises at every bend
The guide accompanying you will point out waterbucks, black and white colobus monkeys, African carter birds, black and white fish eagles and goliath herons as you sail down the river.
We even stopped to watch a large mountain lizard trying to steal eggs from the nests of bee-eaters built into the walls of the riverbank.
You never know what you might come across around the bend of the river — further ahead was a small inlet where a dozen crocodiles were resting with jaws wide open.
As the boat sailed through the foam, Murchison Falls appeared as an amazing sight in the distance.
You can't get too close because of strong currents but the boat stops long enough for pictures to be taken.
For a better view, plan another half-day excursion and hike to the top of the falls.
We, including our car and driver, were ferried across the Nile, after which we drove an hour to the Murchison Falls picnic area and hiked up a mountain path.
We reached a point directly above the falls, from where we could feel the full impact of the Nile as it crashed through a narrow, seven-metre crevice and tumbled 40 metres down.
We were rewarded with refreshing spray and the stunning scene before us.
The next morning found us photographing lions 10 feet away. Game drives happen early, because that's the best time to sight wildlife.
Flat-topped acacia trees outlined the open expanse of the savannah grasslands.
As we drove along, we saw Ugandan kob, waterbuck, hartebeest, impala and oribi grazing leisurely.
Pride of the jungl
Suddenly the guide pointed out to the driver that we were riding off the road. And there they were — a pride of ten lions stretched out lazily, paying little attention to us.
Four hours later, we had added giraffes, playful elephants and a dozen little-known species of African birds to the list of fauna we had sighted.
If only we could have also seen the elusive leopard. Murchison Park has no zebras or rhinos but there is almost every other animal. Plan a three- or four-day stay and you'll never get bored.
The Mabira Forest Lodge is a must-visit for any visitor to Uganda and offers a safari experience different from any other.
Going to sleep at night listening to the eerie mating call of the hornbills is Africa at its best.
Now that I am back in Dubai, I can't wait to share my experience in this African country with the rest of the world.
— Kristina Aaronson is an UAE-based freelance writer
Go there ... Entebbe
From the UAE ... From Duba
Emirates flies daily via Addis Ababa.
Fare from Dh3,400
Kenya Airways flies daily via Nairobi.
Fare from Dh2,400
— Information courtesy:
The Holiday Lounge by Dnata.
Ph: 04 4380454
To Uganda!
Here is a list of the websites to guide you through your tour of this African country of rare natural wealth:
Paraa Safari Lodge: www.paraalodge.com/
Mabira Forest Lodge: www.geolodgesafrica.com/
Metropole Hotel, Kampala: www.metropolekampala.com/
Emin Pasha Hotel, Kampala: www.eminpasha.com/
Kampala Serena Hotel, Kampala: www.serenahotels.com/uganda/kampala/home.asp
BCD Travel in Kampala: www.ugandaletsgotravel.com/
Eco-friendly luxury
Following our son's advice to see some of the sights around Kampala, we set out for Mabira (above), an hour's drive on the Jinja-Kenya highway.
A stay at the ecolodge, nestled in the thick of a 312 sq km rainforest, is an experience no one should miss.
The lodge is made of natural materials that complement the natural setting in which it is built.
The 12 spacious rooms are like comfortable treehouses in the wild, furnished with every amenity.
As the lodge is built on a hill, be prepared to get plenty of exercise, as you will have to move from your cabin up to the dining room or down to the swimming pool.
Kigozi, one of the most experienced guides, will take you on fascinating walks.
Jinja is a town on the shores of Lake Victoria, considered the “source'' of the Nile, the longest river in the world.
Go on a half-day visit and bargain for a boat ride to the rock at the source, shop at the outdoor arts-and-crafts stalls by the lake and have lunch at the Black Lantern Restaurant overlooking the Nile, a popular spot for rafting and kayaking.
City of hills
For that perfect ending to your visit, plan a stay in Kampala. Known as one of the greenest places in Africa, it is built around 21 hills and has some comfortable and luxurious hotels.
We went to the arts-and-crafts market, where we found inexpensive woodcarvings, hand-woven baskets, African-print fabrics and colourful beaded jewellery.
We made it a point to visit the Kasubi tombs, a Unesco World Heritage Site, where Bugandan kings are buried.
We had dinner, explored the casino and found the open-air Garden City mall.
