The resurgence of New York Fashion Week: A new era of American fashion

Once dismissed as the weaker sibling to its European counterparts, New York Fashion Week is back with a vengeance. With powerhouse names like Calvin Klein making a grand return and emerging designers injecting fresh energy, the Fall/Winter 2025 season signaled a true renaissance for American fashion. From razor-sharp tailoring to avant-garde experimentation, these were the defining moments of NYFW’s resurgence.

After a six-year absence from the runway, Calvin Klein made a triumphant return, ushering in a new chapter under creative director Veronica Leoni. Staying true to the brand’s DNA, Leoni presented a collection of clean lines, neutral palettes, and effortless sensuality. Precision-cut tailoring met soft, second-skin knitwear, with slip dresses and structured coats dominating the runway. The show was a masterclass in refined minimalism, proving that quiet luxury remains at the heart of American fashion. With industry icons like Kate Moss watching from the front row and Kendall Jenner walking the runway, the moment felt like a homecoming - both for the brand and for NYFW itself.

Tory Burch took classic American sportswear and turned it on its head, deconstructing the familiar in favor of something unexpected. Banker shirts were exaggerated at the cuffs, cardigans featured dramatic slashes, and ribbed knit dresses spiraled around the body in dynamic shapes. The collection balanced a cerebral approach to design with an undeniable wearability, proving that experimental fashion need not be out of reach.

Anna Sui’s Fall 2025 collection was a love letter to the extravagant, rebellious heiresses of the 1930s - women who lived decadently and dressed the part. Set in the opulent National Arts Club, the show was a maximalist dreamscape of Fortuny pleats, jacquard coats, and leopard-print accents. Faux fur stoles, oversized sunglasses, and pearl-studded gloves added a sense of playful opulence, while Sui’s signature eclectic layering made vintage nostalgia feel fresh. Bridging old-world glamour with modern eccentricity, the collection was proof that excess, when done right, is eternally chic.

Marc Jacobs remains the undisputed king of spectacle, and his latest collection - aptly titled Courage - was a raw meditation on fear as a catalyst for creativity. Hosted in the grand setting of the New York Public Library, the show was a feast of exaggerated proportions, sculptural gowns, and surrealist tailoring. Jacobs’ signature theatricality shone through in every piece, reminding the industry why he remains one of America’s most daring designers.

Joseph Altuzarra eschewed dramatic storytelling this season, opting instead for a refined, timeless approach. Staged in the historic Woolworth Building, the collection exudes quiet luxury, with cape coats in deep navy, flowing chiffon evening gowns, and precise tailoring that paid homage to the power of understated sophistication. Inspired by Wuthering Heights, the collection carried an air of resilience and romance, proving that sometimes, less really is more.

Wes Gordon delivered one of his most poetic collections yet for Carolina Herrera, drawing inspiration from the 1979 cult film Being There. The result was a dreamlike garden of structured rosettes, embroidered capes, and ethereal sheer fabrics. With a color palette oscillating between moody autumn hues and soft spring tones, the collection captured the essence of modern femininity - bold yet delicate, structured yet soft.

New York Fashion Week has officially reclaimed its status as a global fashion force. With a mix of heritage brands reestablishing their dominance and new voices pushing the boundaries, the AW25 season proved that fashion capital is back.