The Kurator’s Men’s Paris Fashion Week AW25 round-up

Kim Jones once again proved why he’s one of the most sought-after designers in menswear with his latest Dior collection, blending elegance with just a touch of the unexpected. Held at the École Militaire, the stripped-back runway featured illuminated staircases that guided models through the space. This season, Jones explored chiaroscuro - an artistic technique playing with contrasts of light and dark which translated into voluminous opera coats, ecclesiastical-inspired gowns, and intricate satin blouses. Silhouettes oscillated between structured and fluid, with cigarette trousers and boxy leather jackets contrasted by flowing garments that mimicked skirts in motion. Accessories, including glimmering lapel brooches and updated Dior sneakers, added a streetwise edge to an otherwise refined collection. And of course, the front row brought its own star power: Gwendoline Christie, Robert Pattinson, Kate Moss, and Honey Dijon joined Kim’s London crew, adding their energy to what might be Jones’ most sophisticated outing yet.

Pharrell Williams’ second collection for Louis Vuitton came with a subtle nod to nostalgia but stayed firmly planted in the future. Collaborating with long-time friend Nigo, the collection harmonized streetwear and tailored refinement. Models in tweed suits, artisanal denim, and silky kimono-inspired blazers glided down a cherry blossom-pink runway to a live orchestral rendition of Final Fantasy VII. While last season leaned into extravagance, this time the duo scaled back, letting Japanese craftsmanship and understated luxury take center stage. Indigo boro textiles, rockabilly-inspired leather jackets, and classic duffle bags were among the standouts, merging heritage techniques with Pharrell’s contemporary vision. It’s clear that Nigo’s influence tempered Pharrell’s penchant for excess, resulting in a collection that felt deeply personal yet universally covetable.

Mike Amiri brought Hollywood nostalgia to life with “Club Amiri,” the stage for his first-ever womenswear debut alongside his Autumn/Winter menswear collection. Draped in moody lighting, the venue paid homage to classic Los Angeles landmarks like the Formosa Café, with models donning sharp tailoring and high-octane glamour. Silhouettes ranged from tailored pencil skirts with slits to flowing trousers and unstructured knitwear embellished with crystal details. Rich tones of merlot, espresso, and mint dominated the palette, exuding a polished but laid-back vibe. Amiri’s knack for blending skate culture with high fashion remains intact but has matured into a confident celebration of California’s allure.

Berluti marked its 130th anniversary with a collection that celebrated its heritage while pushing its craftsmanship into the modern age. Presented at the Fondation Simone et Cino Del Duca, the show highlighted Berluti’s three pillars of style: the Démesure shoe, the Forestière jacket, and the Périple bag. Guests, including Victor Belmondo and Lee Jun-ho, witnessed the House’s reinterpretation of classics, where fine leatherwork and sleek silhouettes were paired with a contemporary, wearable edge. Berluti continues to cement its place as a brand where timeless artistry meets modern luxury.

Hermès turned the racetrack into the runway with a collection inspired by jockeys’ vibrant silks. Véronique Nichanian brought a playful boldness to the brand’s equestrian heritage, balancing dynamic colors like tomato red and lemon yellow with the depth of teals and browns. Mohair coats, plush sheepskin jackets, and textured knitwear provided both warmth and sophistication, while chevron sweaters and patchwork turtlenecks played with geometry in delightful ways. As always, Hermès excelled in delivering streamlined silhouettes that exude understated luxury - this time with a nostalgic wink to racing’s golden age. Paris Fashion Week has once again solidified itself as the epicenter of innovation and storytelling in menswear. From Dior’s chiaroscuro romance to Hermès’ vibrant racetrack references, each brand brought a unique perspective to the Autumn/Winter 2025 season, blending heritage with the ever-evolving spirit of modern fashion.