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Carbonium: Unlike the fashion industry, which accounts for about 10 per cent of global carbon emissions, and nearly 20 per cent of wastewater, the entire promise of the luxury watch industry revolves around the concept of longevity. The one thing that the industry does well is seek out interesting new materials to case their watches and as alternatives to the more traditional materials like stainless steel or gold. Swiss haute horology brand Ulysse Nardin used carbonium - a lightweight and sustainable material used in the production of airplane fuselage and wings – to create the case of its Freak X timepiece in 2019. This is still a carbon composite, but according to Ulysse Nardin, the production process has 40 percent less environmental impact than other materials as it uses offcuts (a nicer way to describe waste) from aeronautical pieces. Carbonium is manufactured at high pressure and temperature and the micron carbon filaments create a marbling effect that is unique to each case. The resultant case material is three times stiffer than titanium yet two times lighter. The Ulysse Nardin Freak X unveiled at SIHH 2019 uses a 43 mm wide case made of carbonium. Prices start from $24,000.
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EcoTitanium and EcoPangaea: Watch companies often turn to the aviation industry when it needs ideas for case materials. Grade 5 Titanium, used extensively in the manufacture of airplane parts, is probably the most famous example of a crossover material. Last year Panerai debuted EcoTitanium on the Submersible Mike Horn Edition 47 mm diver’s watch. EcoTitanium is recycled from alloy scrap turned in by major aircraft manufacturers and their subcontractors. The choice of material was apt for the Italian brand’s first collaboration with nature conservationist, Mike Horn. Fittingly, the watch is paired with a black strap made from recycled plastic (PET) bottles. This year Panerai introduced the next watch as part of its partnership with Horn – the Submersible EcoPangaea Tourbillon GMT 50mm Mike Horn Edition. The case of this watch uses steel recycled from the 35m-long drive shaft of Horn’s sailing boat, Pangaea. The watch is again paired with a strap made from recycled plastic. The owners of both watches are offered as part of an experiential package wherein buyers can accompany Horn on specific expeditions. Prices start from $22,650 (for the EcoTitanium)
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Ocean Plastic composite: Swiss watchmaker Alpina tied up with Dutch micro-brand Gyre Watch to produce a line of watches in its Seastrong family with a case made of recycled ocean plastic waster. Dutch journalist Bernard Werk founded Gyre Watch with the hope of raising awareness about ocean waste. The Alpina Seastrong Gyre Diver has a matt black composite case (70 percent PA6 thermoplastic and 30 percent fiberglass). Water-resistant to 300 meters, the case is fitted with a unidirectional black PVD steel bezel with black luminous markers and is available in two sizes - 44 mm (men’s) and 36 mm (women’s). Both cases are depth-rated to 300 meters. While the 44 mm version is priced at €1,395, the 36 mm version is €1,295.
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Recycled Ocean Plastic: Swedish company Triwa introduced the Time for Oceans wristwatch this spring with a case made entirely of recycled ocean plastic. According to Triwa, this material is a result of its partnership with a Swiss company called #tide that uses solar energy to convert plastic collected from the oceans into granules. These granules are injection moulded to create cases of these watches. Water resistant to 100 metres, this stylish little number is a cool holiday watch, inexpensive and cheerful. It has loads of interesting design details like the three dimensional waves on the dial, oversized indexes and hands and a domed mineral glass that protects the dial. It is paired with a woven strap, also made from ocean plastic, and is powered by a Miyota quartz movement. Prices start at $129
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r-Radyarn straps: The Oris Divers Sixty-Five watch is fitted with a recycled polymer strap made from r-Radyarn, a low environmental impact product made from 100 per cent post-consumer recycled PET bottles. It is an eco-sustainable yarn ideal for applications in the technical sportswear and medical sectors. This new strap material is the result of a multi-stage process – from post-consumer bottle collection to reprocessing and yarn production – all taking place in Europe. The strap costs $225.
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