Milan designs are sugar coated
As the men's shows wrap up there, designers at Milan turn to coats as a hedge against the financial chill
The transgressive designing duo Dean and Dan Caten opened the last day of the menswear preview collections with a relatively sombre DSquared2 collection — showing the twins are in tune with the tough economic times.
To the rock beat of The Wall by Pink Floyd, the Canadian duo sent out models in tight, low-waisted cropped jeans, worn with a short jacket. By night, the designers offered several outfits with studs or graffiti.
But that was as bad-boy as it got. The rest of the show was devoted to classic styles, the same kind seen on most of the runways throughout the four days of preview showings.
Knitted vests, tweed coats, mohair sweaters and suede jackets all stayed on the safe side, where fashion has retreated for the moment. Ditto for the formal tuxedo suit that closed the show, worn with classy patent-leather boots.
Given the economic gloom, safe, long-term investments are definitely in fashion. And designers are banking on the overcoat, which made a big comeback on the Milan runways during menswear fashion week, which ended on Tuesday.
Shearling, hardy and multipurpose yet fashionable, is the darling of the season. But there also will be an array of elegant evening coats of such luscious materials as astrakhan and velvet.
Styles ranged from businesslike double-breasted to winter-ready trench coats. There was no end to the detailing, from peacock feathers to military brooches to studs and silk embroidery. Designers also mixed materials, combining leather and tweed, wool and velvet, fur and fabric. For a more casual look, fashion houses offered hooded duffle coats and pea jackets. There were few sportier styles, although biker jackets, bombers and parkas made cameo appearances.
Overall, the message was conservative. Jackets tended to be short and close to the body, and pants were mostly skinny with some more relaxed looks. Layering was in, and turtlenecks were substituting for ties even for evening. Knitwear was geometric and floral patterns graced just about any garment.
Total black was the season's favourite tone. Overall the palate was traditional urban, with just sparks of teal, peacock blue, red and purple.
Much of the flash was reserved for accents, like silver details on footwear or shimmery fabric for shirts and jackets.
Armani
Leave it to Mr Armani to prove that comfort and elegance can share the same closet.
His collection had all the items a well-turned-out gentlemen needs, and yet was as comfortable as a pair of jeans and a sweat shirt. The secret lies in the materials: knitted wool and stretch fabric. The ample cut of the clothes does the rest.
An iconic double-breasted coat comes in knitted wool. A grey business suit is crafted in super soft stretch fabric and has a short deconstructed jacket and pants with extra wide darts. A velvet tuxedo jacket is worn with a simple silk T-shirt.
On the other side of the coin, Armani takes top-drawer pieces and transfers them into casual wear worthy of fancy dress.
The vest from a three-piece suit gets a zipper and is knitted in Nordic patterns. The same zippered vest returns for eveningwear, this time in monochromatic stretch fabric. A zipper replaces buttons on a silk shirt.
