That's how Giorgio Armani described his clothes. The iconic designer mended fences with Anna Wintour, while Cate Blanchett graced the second row at his show applauded for its classic sophistication and maturity.
"The Armani era is over," US Vogue editor Anna Wintour is reported to have recently declared. Well, it seems the high priestess of fashion has had a change of heart.
Just months after Giorgio Armani sent shockwaves throughout the industry for daring to admit he was "indifferent" to her Bobness - it seems the pair have made amends, for yesterday Wintour could be found seated front eyeing the designer's ethereal spring-summer collection.
Her presence is perhaps telling that Milan remains just as pertinent to the fashion world as ever before. While it lacks the excitement and up and coming designers of New York, or the urban edginess of London - Milan still packs plenty of style punch. Italy's old stalwarts of chic - Armani, Cavalli, Gucci, Prada and Missoni - all bring classic sophistication and maturity to their catwalks and it's a quality that shoppers particularly appreciate in these credit crunch times.
Big drawcard
Armani's upmarket Giorgio Armani label was yesterday's first big drawcard, proving so popular with the suited and booted crowd that two shows were scheduled. Still, stylistas were sent clambering for any spare piece of real estate available with many happy to settle their designer-clad derrieres on the staircases leading to the theatre's bleachers.
While magazine editors populated the coveted front row at the first showing, the second drew a celebrity following including Australian starlet Cate Blanchett with husband Andrew Upton and their six-year-old son Dash, who committed the ultimate fashion crime by wearing bright blue Crocs to the event. (Note: it's never too early to break bad style habits.)
Armani aptly described his clothes as a "joy to wear" and the ultra-feminine tailoring and embellished gowns had many pundits purring long after the final applause.
Over at Burberry Prorsum, Christopher Bailey continued his epic rise, which has ensured the British label's revival. His gardening-inspired collection (it sounds dowdy, but it was anything but) had Burberry CEO Angela Arhendts waxing lyrical about her "brilliant" designer.
"He's at the height of his career," she gushed. The fact that the iconic British label shows its collection in Milan is just one more reason why the design capital is at the epicentre of fashion - for this week at least.
Armani: Sweet dreams are made of these
If you class Italian fashion as brash and bold, it's time to do away with those old preconceptions. Giorgio Armani's show possessed an airy romanticism that is so often associated with breezy summer days or sleep lulled by the ocean.
Effortless chic is not an easy accomplishment, but Armani's billowy collection was a testament to the mastery of his tailoring. Three-quarter length jackets were lined with organza or chiffon and slightly nipped at the waist, while skirts rested just above the knee complete with puff hems, to continue the cloud-like imagery. A colour palette of shell pink and oyster grey added fluidity to the lightweight fabrics, and indeed the models with their flyaway hair looked as if they'd just emerged from a dip in the sea.
For evening, Armani signalled the return of pants to the cocktail scene - but the silhouette was pared down to complement floaty tops and beaded jewellery.
Full-length dresses also evoked a sense of sophisticated casualness. Cut from a single piece of shimmering sequinned cloth, Armani intended his gowns to conjure the relaxed feel of wearing a sarong. Each dress was perfectly accessorised with embellished sandals - a look that would not be out of place on a balmy Dubai night.
Burberry: Over the hedge
Gardening hardly seems like the most glamorous inspiration for a collection, but that was exactly the idea behind Burberry Prorsum's show yesterday. Far from being welly-clad frumps, Christopher Bailey's vision for his "gardening girls" translated into sublime outerwear crafted from rumpled silks and embroidered cottons, demonstrating once again the designer's uncanny ability to take all things uncool and make them desirable again.
"I wanted it to be soft, I wanted it to be romantic," explained Bailey backstage, when he was mobbed by an adoring crowd of well wishers. "I love the idea they're dressed up in outerwear. It's based on our company's heritage. It's something a bit familiar but still modern."
So it was hardly surprising the label's iconic trench was in abundance on the catwalk, but the signature check was replaced with delicate fabrics and cool, earth tones of beige, grey and sage green. The trenches were paired with fluid skirts or culottes and simple shirts were adorned with large statement necklaces. The look was completed with bucket hat, another nod to Bailey's enchanting picture of girls splashing about in puddles. It's testament to the collection's whimsical nature that London's inclement summers almost seemed appealing.
Choo's African Rhythm
For anyone who has suffered from a shoe obsession, the Jimmy Choo showroom on Via Manzoni is both a delight and an agony. A delight, because it is home to the latest offerings from the house of Choo, from boldly stitched platform sandals to the latest statement bags; and an agony because even the most connected fashionista will need to be patient for the much lusted-after items to hit the shelves.
So when the long wait is over what can you expect? For spring-summer 2009 inspiration came from the rhythm of Africa, with tribal graphics and embellishments featuring largely on its red carpet show-stoppers as well as everyday sandals.
But this is not cliched attire taken straight from Out of Africa: think instead of an urban huntress as the combination of burnished hardware and exotic skins help to catapult the collection away from African kitsch. And just when you thought ‘It' bags were so over, the curvaceous Ruby and the leopard printed pony called Mandah will quickly change your mind.
