How skin science translates into skincare

The science of the skin is a fascinating field with researchers constantly seeking to unravel its secrets so they can offer people ways to keep it healthy and youthful. During a recent trip to Hamburg, Germany, I met Dr Horst Wenck, Corporate Vice President of Research at Beiersdorf - Nivea, who spoke on this subject, and the advances in skin research for the development of new beauty products.

First, what are the most recent findings?

Until recently, it was believed that one's genetic make up determines the properties and the condition of the skin and the way it ages. But now it has been proved that the determining factor is the protein present in the skin, and the production of proteins is decided by genes. Cosmetics cannot affect a person's genes, but can alter the protein structure in the skin. One revolutionary finding: as one ages, certain genes in the body shut down, affecting the production of corresponding proteins.

Skin science can harness this knowledge to create processes that will stimulate such genes so they continue producing their corresponding proteins. In elderly people, there are about 40 prominent genes that shut down and their corresponding proteins no longer exist.

Let me illustrate with an example of the bee larvae growth cycle: If a larva is fed with pollen, it triggers the development of a worker bee, but if fed with royal jelly (honey bee secretion used as nutrition), a queen bee. What this shows is that even larvae with common genes can develop into two completely different organisms if different genes in them are stimulated. Similarly, when skin is fed with the right ingredients, the proteins continue to help maintain youthful skin. That's a strong avenue scientists are pursuing for skin metabolism.

What causes the skin cells to behave differently as we age?

Not everything about skin and ageing is clear as yet. We can't pinpoint what causes the shutting down of genes in the skin of the elderly, but we know that the skin's regenerative capacity declines with age and with environmental factors (such as sunlight); metabolic conditions (such as diabetes); and abuse (such as smoking). Skin science can help here. Research into the skin's biology involves studying all the processes that we can target to make the skin behave in a certain way. Our target is to know the fundamentals about the skin and its behaviour, not just the peripherals that may seem to affect skincare or skin renewal.

For instance, we know that every biological process requires energy as that's the fuel for cellular processes. Just like a car won't run without petrol/diesel, cellular processes including cell renewal will be impossible in the absence of energy. Thanks to skin research, we have found that with age, there is a clear decline in cellular energy. To target this, we created an active ingredient (Q10, trademark) that stimulates cellular energy production in the skin cells.

How does a topical skin cream work?

Skin, the largest organ of our body, is the principal site of interaction with the surrounding world. The skin's function is to act as a protective barrier preventing internal tissues from being assaulted by ultraviolet (UV) radiation, temperature, toxins and bacteria, among other things.

How far a topical skin cream penetrates into the skin depends on the function it is meant to perform. For instance, in the case of a sunscreen, it has to stay on the skin's surface to protect the skin. Such a cream should have molecules that will remain stable on the skin's surface (the epidermis where shedding of dead cells occur) and not be absorbed by the skin.

In the case of a cream that targets wrinkles, the molecules will need to enhance production of collagen in the dermis (the second layer of the skin which comprises the living cells of the skin) because cell renewal processes take place here. It is also the area where wrinkles occur. The product has to be absorbed easily into the skin and the molecules have to be able to penetrate deep into the dermis to tackle wrinkles.

The sub-cutaneous fatty tissue is the third layer of the skin and is linked to cellulite. In elderly people, changes in this layer cause them to lose much of their facial contours. This is one of the most difficult layers to reach for a topical cream.

Is the facial skin of a young person thinner than that of an elderly person?

As one gets older, the outermost layer of the skin starts becoming thicker as the skin's capacity to shed dead cells declines. Thus cells begin accumulating on the epidermis. On the other hand the dermis starts thinning with age due to reduced cell renewal. However, this is not in proportion with the thickening of the epidermis. So, yes, the skin of an elderly person is thicker than that of a youth. Another difference between youthful skin and elderly skin is that in the latter, the blood supply is not as much as it is in youthful skin which is rosy.

What are the important active ingredients that one must supply the skin with?

1. Glycerine: It has high moisturising properties.

2. Anti-oxidants such as Vitamin C and flavanoids: These target free radicals that cause ageing in the skin.

3. Q10: An important active ingredient we have found at Beiersdorf. This helps stimulate cellular energy production and in turn helps in cell renewal.

4. UVA and UVB sunscreen: These provide a barrier against sun's harmful rays and help prevent premature ageing. When you are indoors, a day cream containing a sunscreen will do. But if heading outdoors, depending on the levels of exposure it is important to use creams with appropriate SPF.

Despite the awareness, why do many people still not use sunscreens or use the wrong kinds? Sun exposure is a major cause of premature ageing of skin and it's a habit that must be inculcated very early in life before the damage becomes irreversible. First, it's important to opt for a science-driven manufacturer for an SPF product because that will help protect the skin. They would have researched sun protection extensively and their UV filter systems will be designed to remain more stable on the skin providing better skin protection.

It is also important to know the right way to use a sunscreen: a major problem with suncare is that many people don't use enough of the product. Since some of the protection is likely to be lost when you go swimming, it's important to reapply sunscreen after a swim.

A rule of thumb: apply it 20 minutes before exposure and reapply every two hours you are outdoors.

Also, remember it will not help if you apply a SPF 20 cream twice hoping to achieve the effect of an SPF 40.

Always go for the highest SPF possible. But don't get carried away into thinking that a cream with an SPF figure above 50 is better. The benefit you get in terms of extra protection with 50+ SPF is almost negligible.

How important is retinol as an active ingredient?

In our research at Beiersdorf, we haven't seen convincing results with retinol so we don't recommend it. It becomes effective only when used in very high amounts, but in those amounts it tends to irritate the skin. And when we are looking for anti-ageing properties, we don't think it is right to cause any kind of inflammation or irritation.

Lastly, should one use a product containing a single active ingredient or a multi-purpose one?

I wouldn't put too many actives in one product. One should go for specific user-targeted products, otherwise one can't effectively see the results.