American designer Robert Stock, who pushed the limits of traditional men's sportswear, says there is nothing
in fashion that has not been done before.
He began his designing career working with Ralph Lauren in the 1970s. Four decades later Robert Stock is still excited about fashion and bursting with new ideas.
The American designer has won many prestigious awards for his creations and today his colourful, exquisitely embroidered shirts under the Robert Graham label are much in demand.
Changing lives
Randy Jackson wears them on American Idol and Tiger Woods loves them. Single men claim that the shirts have changed their lives and one fan waded through his flooded house in New Orleans to salvage his collection of Robert Graham shirts.
"This kind of response to my work is what keeps me going at this stage of my career," said Stock, who was recently in Dubai on a private visit. In an interview with tabloid! he reminisced about the New York fashion scene in the 1970's and expressed a desire to be based in Dubai.
Excerpts:
What brings you to Dubai?
I decided to stop over because I have been reading so much about Dubai and Harvey Nichols in Dubai has recently started selling my men's shirts. I last came here 10 years ago and am amazed at the way the city has developed since then. I see it as a strategic location to do business because besides attracting high-end tourists and shoppers, it is also close to my fabric suppliers and manufacturers in Asia, Middle East and Europe. I would love to open a store here and am considering basing my operations here. I will definitely be back.
Why is your label called Robert Graham?
I launched this label in 2000 in partnership with a British designer called Graham. We called it Robert Graham to distinguish this more luxury line from the Robert Stock sportswear and knitwear lines that I had since 1975. I am the sole owner and designer of the label now.
How is this line different?
At that time the menswear market was quite boring and sterile, and we made men's shirts more interesting by introducing bright colours, embellishments like embroidery, intricate detailing and a dose of humour in our designs. Besides sportswear, casual and formal garments for men, we now also do women's tops.
How did you get interested in designing?
My interest in fashion was inspired by my father's collection of custom-made dress shirts. During high school, I worked at retail stores to learn more about fashion. I became a designer at 17 when the owner of the store where I was a salesman liked my design suggestions and asked me to assist in the designing.
What was it like to work with Ralph Lauren in the formative years of his brand?
Though both Ralph and I grew up in the Bronx, I met him in the 1960's when he was selling ties and cologne to the store where I worked. He later invited me to work with him on the very successful "Chaps" collections. He is brilliant and a perfectionist and I learnt a lot from him.
Those were exciting times with new boutiques opening up in New York but Ralph's garments had a rugged and instantly recognisable signature look. I left after three years to launch my own brand.
With the 1970's look in vogue, do you get the feeling of having been there done that?
Yes, my daughter today wears jeans that I sold in the '70s, which makes me quite sentimental. But in the '70s we looked at catalogues from the 1800s for inspiration. Fashion is cyclical and there is nothing that has not already been done. The creativity is in how you contemporise popular things from the past.
What are the inspirations behind your designs?
My inspiration comes from music, my travels and people I admire. While designing I visualise the person it would suit and every shirt has a name. In the new collection we have a heavily embroidered shirt called "Maharaja" and one with embroidered Japanese letters called "Sushi Sam".
My "So Roland" shirt was inspired by two jazz musicians called Roland; we have "Vincent" and "Gogh" influenced by the artist and "Electric circus" named after one of the first discotheques in New York.
What are your plans for the future?
To expand the brand internationally and to add new lines such as neck wear, fragrances and home furnishing. I am excited about our recently launched younger, funkier line called Zen. I also want to do clothes for boys and design father-and-son lines.
Knowledge, wisdom and truth
All Robert Stock's creations have a label with the words "knowledge, wisdom and truth" integrated discreetly into the garment. "These words express the essence of what I want to communicate. Like art, these words have a different meaning for every individual and they make you think," says Stock. He has recently established the "knowledge, wisdom and truth" foundation that funds various charities.
Awards
Robert Stock launched Country Roads by Robert Stock in 1975 and won the Coty Award in 1979.
In 1980 he launched his own company Robert Stock Designs and won the Knitwear designer of the year award in 1982 and the Cutty Sark Award for sportswear in 1989.
