Dusty denim at Diesel

In stark contrast to the dubious denim duds offered on the William Rast runway a day earlier, Diesel creative director Wilbert Das showed how a real pro handles the same material.

Inspired by Miles Davis' legendary jazz recording Some Kind Of Blue, the show began with a trumpet player's lone silhouette projected onto a white screen. The curtain was then raised to reveal a lively jazz quartet who set the scene for a collection that would have been right at home in a 1930s speakeasy.

Male models stalked the catwalk in tweed jackets complete with corsages, bowler hats and plaid shirts and suspenders. The look was evocative of a Southern dandy - except a little more tattered and perhaps sombre, thanks to the dusty fabrics - of grey, brown and black.

For women - petticoats, sequins, silk and tuxedo jackets raised the style stakes for evening - conjuring images of the sultry torch singers of old. Jumpsuits that screamed va-va-voom and high-heeled laced mules are sure to become fixtures in the wardrobes of Diesel loyalists.

The show attracted a fresh sea of famous faces to Bryant Park, including Kate Bosworth, Nicole Ritchie and singer Roisin Murphy. Even though the front row trio had oodles of style cred between them, it was the runway that rightly received the highest fashion plaudits. Tibi

For his autumn 2009 collection, Max Azria tempted fashionistas to cross to the dark side. Not in some futuristic sci-fi fantasy, but in a starkly more moody get-up. The designer described the look as a "rough refined sensibility" and involved uncompromising austere jackets, goth-like blouses or tunics in lace and finally architectural edges including square shoulders, the trend de jour.

Accessories complemented the stern wardrobe, with turn-lock leather belts, suede zippered leggings, full-length leather gloves and platform boots that all screamed dominatrix.

Azria said he wanted to explore the ethereal seduction of the dark side, but ethereal is the last word we would use to describe this collection. It's hard to imagine the ultra girly Rachel Bilson being able to pull of this look, but her front row companion, Alicia Keys, just might.

Tibi