Set against a provocative Chapman Brothers illustration of what looked like the sun rising up (or going down) behind a volcano, Stella McCartney's autumn-winter 09- '10 collection paid homage to masculinity and Mother Earth. Contrastingly, the silhouettes featured bold black and white spray paint and brushstrokes effect prints in soft billowing shapes as well as tufted jacquard knits that looked more like little pieces of structure.
There was a succession of strong, well-cut coats with elongated masculine lapels accessorised with perforated gloves, thigh-high boots and thin belts in grosgrain and faux suede. Steely tones were softened with deep winter berry colours.
The British designer's new collection also featured a few dog-tooth knits inserted with embroidered wool and lace. A whole wealth of textures combined with a richness of palette that is unusual in most winter collections.
McCartney played with quirky juxtapositions of hard and soft fabrics, heavy and light colours as well as masculine and feminine shapes. Fluid silk dresses with puffy shoulders, banana-shaped three-quarter length sleeves and plunging V-necks were worn with faux leather metallic grey leggings. Slim-fit trousers were paired with chunky, heavily padded boyfriend jumpers.
McCartney's trademark jumpsuit also featured on the runway: a purple, long sleeve polo neck jersey number for a bit of fun.
Sexy body con dresses with crochet detailing around the front and on the sleeves looked striking when teamed up with patent stiletto pumps. Ultra sheer silk dresses floated down the catwalk with added patchwork pieces of velvet and the most delicate black and white lace imaginable.
It was a great collection with totally wearable pieces, and I don't just mean one or two looks. The entire collection was down-to-earth yet retained a sense of sheer luxury.
The accessories were simple statement pieces like oversized clutches in faux leather and silk, killer pumps, ankle boots and thigh-high boots in knitted silk and perforated faux leather with galvanized iron heel and metallic toe finish.
Sir Paul McCartney, Salma Hayek, Thandie Newton, Kanye West and Beth Ditto were among the guests at the show.
