Taking the tuber

Blame it on crisps in vacuum-sealed bags. If it weren't for the commercialisation - and culinary trivialisation - of the potato, its status would perhaps have been at a slightly higher elevation than a supermarket shelf.

Arguably the most recognised version of potatoes is in a bag or mash or as fries. It is sad. Because in the pecking order of ingredients, the potato, despite its versatility, is disparagingly at the bottom.

For gastronomes and culinary vanguards alike, this underrated ranking - and its cloying overuse limited to a few dishes - is reason for worry.

Lionel Boyce, executive chef at Desert Palm, Dubai, says, "To this day most people don't know the varieties of potatoes and how great and versatile they are. To most they are suitable only for mash."

If you've cooked with potatoes you know that the choice of potatoes is directly proportionate to the outcome of the dish. As is the way you cook them - and no, you don't just boil or fry them.

In fact, a few years ago Chef Boyce, whose experience spans over 25 years in high profile establishments in Australia, the UK and now in Dubai, was reminded of how demanding and capricious a potato can be. The dish with the potential to incriminate him and his coterie of chefs was the popular Duchess Potatoes, a preparation of seasoned mashed potato purée and egg yolk.

"Those who have made this will know that if the base is wrong, it is all downhill from there," he says.

The kitchen was frantic with activity as they prepared the courses for 200 high-profile guests for a sit-down dinner in the UK. Chef Boyce did his usual final checks before the service. And what he saw in culinary context was alarming.

Gripped by fear, he saw the Duchess Potatoes - that were piped on a tray and kept in the hot holding cabinet - in a "limp, slumped mass".

The sous chef, who had carte blanche, had prepared the dish. After a deserved "quick dressing down" chef Boyce attempted to fix the problem with only 10 minutes or so left for the banquet to open.

Luckily there was a pot of al dente potatoes at hand. "Into the mouli [French rotary grater] the spuds were thrown quicker than a blink of the eye; then into the oven to dry some of the moisture off; and then the yolks and seasoning."

The mix was then divided into four piping bags and chef Boyce marshalled every chef qualified to use such a tool to pipe the mixture.

With a few minutes left, the trays of Duchess Potatoes were slammed into the oven. "The starters went out as the potatoes browned [in the oven]. We took the potatoes out for glazing just after the starters hit the table. A brush of beaten yolk painted on the spirals [of piped potatoes] and once again back into the oven to finish," he says.

This was one of the most challenging situations the Australian chef has ever faced in the kitchen. "No one knew what happened. The ramifications of not being able to deliver a dish would have been catastrophic with severe penalties for all concerned. The sous chef resigned that night," he says.

Chef Boyce's story is spine-chilling for those in the business. For regular folks, whose jobs don't demand the skill of cooking potatoes to perfection, he urges we try different varieties. In other words, we need to be respectful of the humble spud. If we take his advice, we will be surprised at the resulting gustatory pleasure.

1. Iranian potato and feta tart with leek fondue 
Serves 4

Ingredients

For leek fondue

Method

Dice potato into 1cm cubes. Place in salted cold water and bring to a boil. Cook al dente. Drain and cool. Fold feta into potato. Keep aside.

To make leek fondue, melt butter in a pan. Add leek and sauté for a couple of minutes. Add garlic and stir for 30 seconds longer. Deglaze with grape juice, if using, and reduce by half. Alternatively add a little lemon juice at the end. Add cream, thyme and continue to reduce. Correct seasoning. (Add lemon juice now if using.) Remove from flame and keep aside. Fill tart cases with a portion of fondue to cover the base of the shell. Top with potato and feta mix. Brush with melted butter. Fill the remaining tarts. Place in a hot oven for 10 minutes to warm through. Once done, finish under the grill till golden. Serve with fresh leaves and your favourite dressing.

Note: For a more professional finish, use a pastry cutter to cut potato in rings.

Why Iranian potato?

Chef Boyce says these are locally produced, and are similar to Russet. They are floury and high in starch but when cooked al dente they hold well. Their flavour offsets the feta cheese nicely. Also it is a local product that comes at a reasonable price.

2. Cheesy Daupinoise Gratin with Lebanese potatoes
Serves 4-6

Ingredients

Method

Rub the bottom of an earthenware vessel with garlic clove. Keep aside.

In a heavy bottom pot, heat cream, remaining garlic and thyme until warmed and infused. Add potato discs and warm through for 10 minutes. With a spoon, remove potatoes from the pot and layer them in the earthenware vessel, sprinkling cheeses in between. (Reserve a little for the topping.) Pour the remaining cream. Bake at 150˚ C for 60-90 minutes until potatoes are cooked through and cheese has browned. Serve as side or main dish with crusty bread and salad.

Tip: To slice potato, use a mandolin potato slicer.

Why Lebanese potato?

Chef Boyce says because it has similar qualities to Yukon Gold with high moisture content. Its starch content, though relatively high, still allows it to hold together without breaking up too much. Plus it is produced locally.

3. Potato Gnocchi Veal Shank Stew
Serves 4

Ingredients

For gnocchi

Method

In a thick bottom pot, heat olive oil. Dust veal in flour and place in the pot. Cook till golden. Remove and keep aside.

In the same pot, sauté onion and garlic. Add sage. When onion is golden, add tomato and beef stock. When mixture reaches a boil, add veal shank. Check seasoning and cook on a low flame for an hour or till veal is soft. Remove veal and reduce remaining liquid till thick.

To make gnocchi, cook potato in the microwave for 5 minutes or till soft. Peal and mash. Place mash in a bowl and add eggs one by one. Slowly add flour. Mix until smooth. Cover with cling film and allow it to rest for 30 minutes. Divide mixture into equal portions. Roll each portion out to form a log. Roll each log over the tines of a fork to create textured service (as well as help sauce to cling to cooked gnocchi). Boil gnocchi in salty water until they float. Strain.

Serve with cooked veal, topped with sauce and garnished with parsley and Parmesan.

Tip: We cook this variety of potato with the skin in the microwave to make sure that the starch remains inside and the moisture absorption is minimal. This way, the gnocchi will be lighter.

Why Australian red potato?

Chef Palacios says it is a very starchy potato, fleshy and dry, making it good for mash and soups.

4. Sweet potato in peppercorn syrup

Serves 4

Ingredients

Method

Peel potato and cut in cubes. Soak in water with lime stone for 6 hours. Remove, rinse and keep aside.

To make syrup, combine water, sugar, orange zest, peppercorn and star anise in a pot and bring to boil. Once sugar is dissolved, add potato, and cook on low flame for 30 minutes or till syrup thickens. Check seasoning. Cool in a shallow tray in the fridge.

Note: The lime stone soaked technique gives a crunchy texture to the potatoes even after it is cooked in syrup.

To serve, add syrup and top with mascarpone quenelle.

Why South American sweet potato?

Chef Palacios says this variety is very starchy and sweet by nature making them suitable for desserts.

5. Garlic parsley fries with Yajua sauce 
Serves 4

Ingredients

For Yajua sauce

Method

Heat corn oil to 140 degrees and shallow fry half the potato batons for 10 minutes or until soft. Place on kitchen paper and cool. Add more corn oil and heat up to 180 degrees. Deep-fry remaining batons for 6 minutes till golden. Place on kitchen paper and cool.

Separately, heat olive oil, add garlic. Sauté till golden and add potatoes. Toss with parsley and season. Keep aside.

To make Yajua sauce, mix grated tomato, garlic, onion and chilli flakes. Check seasoning and finish with olive oil. Serve with prepared potatoes.

Why Idaho potato?

Chef Palacios says the starch content is rather low so we choose them for this recipe. This variety is very good for deep-frying and roasting.

6. Baked Lebanese potato with Bresola 

Serves 2

Ingredients

Method

Boil sliced potato in salted water with half the butter and garlic. Cook for a minute and drain. Place on kitchen paper.

Layer potato in an oven-proof dish with meat slices, sprinkling with pepper, salt, zaatar and crumbled gruyere. Brush the top with remaining butter and bake at 200˚ C for 17-20 minutes, until golden. Serve immediately with a green salad.

Why Lebanese potatoes?

Chef Mejia says because it has a little more holding power and is slightly more waxy like a good salad potato. It does not fall apart when cooked and reminds me of the great Italian Spunta potato - in colour and character.

7. Saudi potato cake 

Serves 1

Ingredients

Method

Boil potato in salted water. Using your hand, mash with 3/4 quantity of butter. Add spring onion, rocket leaves and feta. Season and mix lightly.

Butter an oven-proof dish and pour this mixture. Brush the top with butter or olive oil. Bake at 200˚ C for 18-20 minutes until golden on the top.

Why Saudi white potatoes?

Chef Mejia says they cook into a fluffy consistency even when packed tight into the mould. They are very good for chips and potato purees as well.

8. Sweet potato pie  

Serves 8

Ingredients

Ice cream, whipped cream or crème fraiche, to serve

For the pie shell:

For the filling:

Method

For the pie shell: grease a baking dish with butter. Place the puff pastry and brush with whisked egg. Bake it blind at 200˚C for 10 minutes. Cool.

For filling: dry roast potato at 200˚ C until a knife runs easily. Peel and puree in a food processor till smooth. Leave aside to chill.

In a bowl, mix sugar, cornflower, cinnamon, all-spice, salt and ginger by hand. Add prepared potato puree, honey, cream and eggs. Mix well till smooth.

Reduce temp to 140˚C. Pour mixture into prepared pastry shell and bake for 35 minutes. Remove and cool. Demould and slice into 8 pieces. Serve with cream, whipped cream or crème fraiche.

Why red sweet potatoes?

Chef Pratt says I adore them for their sweet flavour and easy handling. They are high on the glycemic index and full of other essential goodness so very good for children too.

Kinds of potatoes

Chef Boyce says there are thousands of varieties, but he hasn't found many in Dubai. Here's a list of a few available in local aisles:

Idaho: American favourite. More on the floury side but makes great chips and roast potatoes.

Yukon gold: great for both chips and mash.

Maris Piper: great chipper and good mash potato (floury).

Sebago: great chipper and mash potato (floury).

Russet: great chipper and good mash potato with thick rough skin (floury).

Desiree, Pontiac and Kipfler: three kinds of spuds that are great for boiling or salads (waxy).

Purple Congo: waxy and good for boiling.

La Ratte: great flavour and great for boiling or using in bakes.

Dutch baby potato: waxy, great sweet potato best used in salads or with a knob of butter.

Jersey Royals: waxy, great for salads, boiling and roasts.

Delaware: good mash and roasting potato.

Storage tips
 
Never buy green ones as they can be poisonous.

They are best stored in a well-ventilated dark cool space as potatoes tend to sweat and rot. Don't store in the refrigerator as the starch content will change.

Look for firm potatoes. If it's soft, spongy or has crinkled skin, it's a sign it's old and is losing its flavour.

Don't buy potatoes that have ‘eyes' shooting as they are ready for growing not eating.