Menswear trends ensure grooms are cut out for commitment

Menswear had a rare moment in the spotlight at this year’s Met Gala, whose theme explored the evolution of Black dandyism and its influence on fashion, particularly through fine tailoring. Men in the UAE aren’t exactly shrinking violets when it comes to what they wear – Dubai’s Satwa district, for instance, has been synonymous with high-quality workmanship for decades. But we should certainly expect to see the year’s biggest fashion event influence wardrobes this year – particularly on their wedding day.

“The modern groom isn’t afraid to experiment,” says Indian designer Manish Malhotra, who strutted down the Met’s blue carpet in a sculptural but subversive sherwani cape himself. The coat was hand embroidered with glass beadwork and gold details, but Malhotra also wore a mass of jewellery: brooches, collar pins and cufflinks. “I’ve always felt that a brooch or a collar pin give a groom a touch of sophistication,” he says. “Jewellery adds personality and flair while keeping that classic, timeless look. It’s a perfect blend of tradition and modern style.”

But even without the bling, grooms have been set a high bar. As awareness of fit and fabric has grown, expect fewer men to follow their older siblings who’ve chosen rack-ready suits that could go straight from boardroom to bar (and with a little flair, even a ballroom).

“Fine tailoring is making a strong comeback, especially for weddings. In 2025, the modern groom is all about sartorial excellence,” says Yamin Ummer, a menswear stylist and fashion consultant based in Dubai. More than just luxury materials and great cuts, he’s also seeing growing confidence in refined colour palettes and rich textures. “For the modern Gulf groom, we often style classic pieces like sherwani or bandhgala jackets but give them a cleaner, more contemporary edge. Couture techniques, such as metallic zardozi work or subtle thread embroidery, are key to adding personality and luxury without being overdone.” In other words, traditional craftsmanship plays a big role.

Local and international retailers also see dandies trending again, as more grooms channel a sentiment that brides have owned for centuries: the aisle is a runway of your own, and what better time and place to make a strong personal statement? After all, you (or your bride’s parents) are paying for the party.

“Tailoring is no longer just about size. It’s about storytelling through design, detail, and craftsmanship that elevates the entire wedding experience,” says Mehul Seth, Founder of the brands Bawree, Kora and Baiju Bawraa. “We see an increasing demand for bespoke fits, structured silhouettes, and modern interpretations of traditional styles, garments that fit perfectly, feel luxurious and reflect grooms’ personalities. Men across nationalities in the GCC are looking for outfits that blend heritage with individuality,” he adds.

Preethi S, a fashion stylist at the atelier Style Savvy describes mens’ wedding wear as having a renaissance of self-expression. “Grooms are gravitating towards impeccably tailored suits and are bringing that the grandeur of the Met Gala to classical suits with historic touches.”

As the dandies knew, a sharply tailored jacket can tell the world who you really are. “Grooms want to look distinctive, in tailored pieces with personality – whether a double-breasted tuxedo or a modern bandhgala,” agrees designer Varoin Marwah, who retails out of Dubai and Mumbai. His new collection aims at understated grandeur with on silhouettes like modern tuxedos, long-line bandhgalas and fluid trench jackets in earthy neutrals, vintage golds and deep jewel tones.

Like Malhotra, Marwah also believes that accessories aren’t an afterthought anymore. “A statement brooch, a vintage watch, handcrafted footwear, or even a bold pocket square can transform a look,” he says. “For us, it’s about the fine details – mother-of-pearl buttons, hand-embroidered stoles, and custom saafas (turbans). These elements bring depth and distinction to the groom’s final ensemble, adding personality without overpowering the silhouette.”

When Diljit Dosanjh walked into the Met Gala in a bespoke ivory and gold classic sherwani jacket paired with a traditional sword and turban, he could have been readying to lead a baraat procession. With the outfit, designer Prabal Gurung (he also put singer Shakira in a pink gown with a dramatic train at the same event) expertly demonstrated how grooms can use contemporary tailoring to merge tradition with modern silhouettes.

At a time when fitfluencers and pop psychology videos compete for our scrollshare, these looks speak to how our zeitgeist emphasises form and selfhood.

Grooms now realise that what works for one gent in terms of colour or pattern may not work for another. Consulting with a tailor has always been the best way to learn what suits you – unless you really want your wife to lay out your clothes.

“Most of our gents really just need guidance on colour, fabric and cut,” says Guy Sweeney, Brand Director at the fine tailors Ascots & Chapels. The label typically focuses on the British cut, with a strong shoulder and a nipped-in waist, but Sweeney’s team works with clients to understand their tastes, their big day and the overall theme of the wedding.

“Personalisation is something we really focus on, allowing our clients to choose and craft the garment of their choice,” he adds. The brand offers a wide range of customisation and personalisation options, he says, from monogramming and embroidery to bespoke lining options, as well as special wedding day messages on the inside of jackets.

Across all nationalities, the main ask is the same, Ummar reiterates. Grooms want to look classic and feel confident but also want to wear something unique that reflects their roots and personality. That ties into cultural fusion, one of the standout trends of the year – but one that is familiar turf in third-culture hotspots like Dubai.

In practice, this means Arab grooms often ask for traditional pieces with a modern twist, like bishts with finer cuts or tone-on-tone embroidery, while Western grooms lean toward bespoke tuxedos or suits, but are increasingly adding in standout accessories.

Likewise, many South Asian grooms want to match the grandeur of Indian celebrations while incorporating elements of their own personal story, Seth from Kora says. They often ask for regal sherwanis, Indo-western fusion styles and coordinated looks for themed weddings. “We guide them in selecting ensembles that feel authentic, luxurious, and unforgettable for their big day,” he says.

He says Kora’s classic Indian sherwanis and bandhgalas blend Indian heritage with Arabic elegance, drawing on the Mughal and Rajputana styles suited to weddings in the Gulf. The collections pair hand embroidery and traditional crafts like zardozi and silk resham embroidery, as well as mirror work with clean lines and modern tailoring. They are cut from fabrics such as raw silk and velvet in colours ranging from ivory to jewel tones. “The result is attire that feels royal, yet relevant,” he says.

Malhotra, for his part, says he looks to blend cultures in a way that feels natural and respectful. “We start with strong Indian roots, because craftsmanship like hand embroidery and zardozi is at the heart of what we do. But we also understand the language and traditions of the Gulf, so the designs reflect that elegant mix.”

But Sweeney reports that more Indian and Arab men opting for tuxedos, whether that’s because we’re all global citizens now or because more men are following their brides’ lead – again – in choosing multiple outfits, either for the wedding day itself or for parties around it. “Black tie has universal appeal,” he says.

Then there’s fabric, that essential building block of bespoke. However you cut your coat, it’s essential you pick your cloth correctly.

With climate change gifting us with warmer, more humid weather – both in the region and in destination-wedding hotspots such as France and Italy – finding the right fabrics is becoming more important. “Comfort is key, especially given the climate, so we work with breathable fabrics like fine silks, crepes, and lightweight linens,” Marwah says.

Lightweight wool also still has a place, Preethi says, and Dormeuil, Loro Piana and Scabal are firm favourites.

Sweeney says his new collection of fabrics for the season prominently features a range of Irish linen. “It’s extremely soft and we have it in the most amazing colour palette. Perfect for summer weddings in Europe.” For the more daring gent, his team has also recently acquired a striking collection of ceremonial fabrics in velvet and jacquard in eye-catching colours, specifically for the wedding season.

Fine tailoring is intrinsically linked to the choice of fabric. For traditional ceremonies, for example, Indians will almost always look to rich silks that feature delicate hand embroidery.

“Heritage, elegance and traditional attire are integral to the global south,” says designer Omar Farooq, who heads the label Republic. It carries an extensive line of couture pieces for grooms in the GCC, strongly focused traditional hand embroidery and embellishment.

“We design garments that honour these rich traditions whilst appealing to the modern groom’s desire for sophistication and individuality. This allows each groom to honour his roots while expressing his personal style,” he says.

Certainly, not everyone will channel Colman Domingo or Maluma’s looks from the Met Gala at the main event of their lives. But as Tom Ford and Shah Rukh Khan (and darewesay it, Lewis Hamilton) showed, there’s enough room for classic black tie, Sweeney says. A lot of his customers will go this route – then again, isn’t that what personal storytelling is about?

Either way, fine tailoring is anchored in a heritage all its own: made-to-measure garments have historically been seen as something closer to heirlooms, long-term assets for quality and versatility reasons.

“Skilled workmanship ensures a garment is timeless and long-lasting,” Farooq says. “A custom-made wedding suit must be treated as an investment, because not only does it hold a memory close to your heart, it is also an extremely special piece you should hope to make the most use of.”

Wedding or not, a tailored suit is the smartest thing a man can wear and quite possibly, the smartest thing he’ll own.