Dubai:As December hits, the Mallier household starts getting ready for Christmas. From spring cleaning their home to bringing out the Christmas tree and decorations, there is always much to do. By mid-December, they start playing Christmas carols. Their friends wait for the traditional, delicious sweets and snacks that Mallier makes every year without fail. She then painstakingly packs these homemade goodies in beautiful trays to be given to friends and family.
“It’s something that I’ve done for years now as part of our Christmas tradition. I grew up in a joint family in Mumbai. Every year almost a month ahead of Christmas, we used to start preparing for the festivities, also because my family is deeply attached to the church. My mother would make big batches of Christmas sweets and snacks to be given to extended family, friends, neighbours and the less fortunate.”
She shared a particularly fond memory. “By the time I was in Grade 3 my mother would ask me, my siblings and cousins to sit together and help her to prepare a traditional Christmas sweet called Kul kul. It’s a traditional, deep-fried Goan pastry shaped into small curls. We used to have a merry time curling the dough that looked like worms to us. Since then, by watching and helping her with the preparations I learnt how to make these festive food items. Over the years, I started adding my own twists. For example, biscotti is something that I’ve added to the traditional Christmas snacks.”
Keeping in touch with roots through food
An absolute favourite item for the Mallier household is Sorpotel that’s inevitably cooked for Christmas. It’s a dish of Portuguese origin that’s made with red meat. The tangy-spicy curry is usually had with pav or bread. Sorpotel is cooked in the coastal Konkan region of India, primarily in Goa and Mangalore and by East Indians in Maharashtra.
Being Mangalorean-Goan, Mallier is an expert at making Sorpotel using the family recipe from her paternal side. “I like making Sorpotel from scratch at least a week before Christmas. The first step is to make a spice mix comprising dried red chilies (Kashmiri and bedki for colour and heat), mustard seeds, clove, cardamom, cinnamon, cumin, onion, whole ginger and garlic and vinegar grinded to a paste. I fry more onion and then add the spice paste to it frying until oil releases from the sides. To this, I add meat cut into small cubes and slow cook for almost two hours. Once cool I refrigerate the meat bringing it out for Christmas lunch. We always looked forward to eating Sorpotel made by my mother and now our friends wait for it as I make it for Christmas every year,” Mallier shared.
“Similarly, cheeselings, rose cookies and Christmas cake are must-haves in my home. These items remind me of my childhood when my two siblings and I’d keep stealing them from the kitchen. By the end of the day, we would be too full to have dinner,” Mallier fondly recollected. “By making these items at home I’d like my daughter to eventually get acquainted with our Christmas traditions and cuisine.”
More traditions, more food
Mallier got married into a family where Christmas is celebrated in an equally big way. Back in India for Mallier’s husband, Christmas planning used to start from the first week of December. He and his cousins would gather at his maternal grandmother’s home in Pune to decorate the Christmas tree marking the beginning of the festivities.
“December is a month of full of birthdays and anniversaries so that’s an additional reason why the build up to Christmas always started early,” he added. “Back in Pune throughout December we used to have multiple gatherings at the homes of relatives and friends. Even after moving to the UAE, we have always felt the festive vibes as soon as December arrives. We start buying Christmas gifts for everyone besides planning special dishes to make.”
In fact, Mallier’s mother-in-law is a good cook, too, whose Goan-style beef tongue roast is legendary. She also makes delicious mince pie and cashew marzipan. “The first few years after moving to the UAE, we would travel back home for Christmas until we welcomed home two dogs. After that, our annual Christmas trips have become infrequent. Since the past couple of years, my in-laws visit us in Dubai for Christmas, especially since the birth of our first child. So, my mother-in-law joins forces with me making her specialities.”
Mallier’s mother-in-law is a music teacher who heads the choir group in the church. She helps children practice Christmas carols around this time of the year. “That’s another reason why my in-law’s home in Pune always looks, smells and sounds festive throughout December,” Mallier concluded with a smile.
Watch how to make cheeselings and biscotti by Cindy Mallier.
