A never-ending buffet in Kolkata

Kolkata: One walk through the streets of Kolkata, one of India’s oldest cities, will tell you all about its history, proclaim its greatness, whisper its secrets, and allow you to hold its soul in the palm of your hand.

Streets are a palimpsest to its culture, society, its beliefs, representing the city in its good times; in it’s given up times and now in its stupendous metamorphosis.

However, you can barely walk down the hems of Kolkata, without falling over vendors conjuring up cart magic through delicious phuchka, papri chat, jhaal muri, bhel puri, ghoogni, and chop. It is an unending buffet that can only encourage you to ask for more.

However, during this time of year, when the “city of joy” turns into a foodie’s delight life in this city is a festival. Be it the sea of humanity that becomes Park Street during the Christmas celebrations or the beeline for sewaiya from Entally Market or Halim from Aliyah during Eid, religion doesn’t divide this city. It brings people together.

Street food in Kolkata is more than just culinary or gastronomic delight - it epitomises the culture and the very essence of this historical city that has embraced it all.

It’s a social activity because you’re enjoying a snack with other people on the street. You’re part of a community. Food here is in the culture, marked contrast to high street fast food culture in the West, where food is treated as a commodity.

As Bengali flavours pour on to footpaths crammed with stools and tables indulging customers to the very best of rolls, puris, biryani, shingara, moghlai paratha, chow mein, chilli chicken, jhal muri, alu-kabli, thick kathi rolls, jalebis dripping in syrup, karaishutir kachuri (puri made of peas) and phulkopir shingaras just the way grandma made them and chops , egg devils, chicken kabiraji (chicken envelop) and chingri machher cutlets (prawn cutlets), straight out of every college-goer’s memories, all topped by steaming cups of masala tea. You need to dig in no further to realise that for Kolkata’s food is an extension of their own selves and it fits into the mosaic of Bengal’s luxuries.

Ramadan is a time when food becomes very significant, and various items are available only during this time. The whole locality becomes a public exhibition of food. The areas around Zakaria Street, the Nakhoda Mosque (Chitpur Road), Colootola Street, Bolai Dutta Street, Phears Lane are the places to visit during Ramadan for gastronomic delight.

The cuisine is derived from north India, but has acquired its own distinctive style and flavour; often referred to as Calcutta Mughlai. One of the important influencers was Awadh’s Nawab Wajid Ali Shah’s exile in Metiabruz, Calcutta.

Special dishes like murg changazi and mahi akbari (fish), are only available during this holy month. These are road side items around the mosque.

Besides, we have renowned restaurants like Sufia and Aminia which sells special halims like Arbi Halim, Maghaz / Kofta zaban halim / Ghost halim. Delectable special breads and buns are available on the roadside.

Aminia and the nearby Royal both have special Ramadan menus on offer. In Colootola, roasted chicken items are available on the roadside. Biryanis are available all around, like always.

In Bolai Dutta Street there is the famous Adam’s kebab shop, its specialities being sutli kebab or boti kebab, and niri kebab. Nearby is the famous Haji Allauddin sweets shop, sweets items like khajla, laccha, dudiya, Mansour pak, Malai barfi, special laddu are being sold in tons.

“The beauty of Ramadan in Kolkata is that it is not only Muslims who queue up, but also people from other religious communities, who all believe in the tradition of food that we have brought into this city,” said one of the owners of the sweet shop.