Bangalore: garden city

Once called the Pensioner's Paradise, the city is today India's Silicon Valley. Despite alarming growth, it remains a vibrant destination, offering visitors everything from palaces to pubs.

Don't fly into Bangalore at night —you'll miss something. One of the most alluring scenes for me, each time I fly into my hometown, is when the aircraft encircles the airport on a crisp morning before landing.

The city's soothing 40 per cent green cover makes for superb viewing from the air.

Bangalore's salubrious climate and easygoing culture have attracted a host of migrants, giving it a very cosmopolitan feel. It is India's fifth largest city and one of Asia's fastest growing metros.

It is also the capital of Karnataka state. Located at 920 metres above sea level, Bangalore is home to an unbelievable number of gardens, parks and trees, earning it the nickname of "The Garden City".

This city of more than six million used to be called the "Pensioner's Paradise". Not anymore, though. Urbanisation has reached alarming scales, and the infrastructure is bursting at the seams.

History

The story of Bangalore getting its name is an interesting one. Lore has it that King Veera Balalla, the 12th century ruler of the Deccan, lost his way in a jungle during one of his hunting expeditions. Wandering tired and hungry, he came upon a hut.

A poor, old woman inside took pity on the king and offered him a humble meal of boiled beans.

Touched by her generosity, the king decided to name the place "Benda-kalooru" which, in the local Kannada language, means "place of boiled beans".

Over the years, the name was shortened to "Bengalooru" and was anglicised by the British to Bangalore.

A feudal chieftain, Kempe Gowda, founded the town in 1537. He constructed four pillars, thereby demarcating the boundaries.

Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb's army captured the city in 1687, and sold it to the Wodeyar family for a paltry Rs300,000 (Dh25,000)!

Half a century later, Bangalore became an important fortress city under Haider Ali and his son, the legendary Tipu Sultan. The British took over the administration of the city in 1831.

City life

What captivates you the moment you step into an Indian metro is the sheer number of people around.

Bangalore is no exception. Besides, the traffic situation has steadily worsened and driving through the city can be a nightmare.

Bangalore's roads were simply not designed to accommodate the number of vehicles that ply them today. So expect traffic jams and chaos during peak hours.

The public transport system is overstretched and eminently avoidable. The best way around town is by the ubiquitous three-wheeled auto-rickshaw.

For first timers, the ride itself can be quite an experience, and the fares are relatively cheap.

The M.G. Road-Brigade Road area is the tourist and cultural heart of the city. It is very popular with young people and is seen as the most "happening" place in town.

This area is also home to innumerable pubs, theatres and restaurants.

Bangalore is not an expensive place. An average meal in a decent restaurant will cost you about Rs100 (Dh8).

Restaurants in the city offer the widest choice of cuisines. Try out traditional South Indian delicacies at restaurants such as the Kamat or MTR.

For the non-vegetarian Mughlai experience, there is the famous Taj chain. Bangaloreans are one of the most hospitable people you'll find anywhere in India. They will go out of their way to help you.

Almost everyone here speaks some English; foreigners will have no language problems.

Bangalore has one of the highest standards of living in India, owing to its general industrialisation.

It has also led the country's software revolution of the mid-Nineties and is popularly known as the "Silicon Valley of India".

Wherever you are in this tech-savvy city, you are never far away from an internet centre.

The state secretariat building, the Vidhana Soudha, is a must-see. A massive granite structure built in the neo-Dravidian style, it also houses the Legislature and other state government offices.

The building is beautifully lit on Sundays and other public holidays. Once at it, do check out the majestic high court building that stands right opposite. Constructed in 1864, this structure is entirely built of red brick.

Just a stone's throw from the Vidhana Soudha is one of the city's abiding attractions. The Cubbon Park is to Bangalore what Hyde Park is to London or Central Park to New York.

It was laid out in 1864 by Sir Richard Sankey, the chief engineer of Mysore state. The park was named after the longest serving (British) commissioner of Bangalore, Sir Mark Cubbon.

Another major attraction is the beautiful Lal Bagh (literally Red Garden).

This is one of Bangalore's most-visited tourist spots. Laid out by Haidar Ali in 1760, these botanical gardens are spread over 240 acres and house more than 1,000 species of flora and the subcontinent's largest collection of rare plants.

Inside the Lal Bagh, you will also find the dazzling Glass House, modelled on the Crystal Palace of London. It is the venue of a popular annual flower show.

Smack in the heart of the city's market area stands Tipu Sultan's attractive summer palace. Construction on the building began in 1791.

The entire palace is made of wood, and although nothing in grandeur compared to the Mughal palaces of Delhi or Agra, it has a charm quite its own.

One of my favourite tourist spots in Bangalore is the massive Bangalore Palace. Built in 1887 by King Chamaraja Wodeyar, it bears a striking resemblance to the Windsor castle in England.

It is said that on a visit to England, Wodeyar was impressed with English architecture and wanted his home to be built on similar lines. Entry to the palace is, however, restricted.

The best time to visit Bangalore is between September and January, although even summer in Bangalore (March to May) is mild.

Getting there

There are three flights from Dubai and three from Sharjah every week to Bangalore.
(Air India flies from Dubai, Indian Airlines from Sharjah.) Besides, Sri Lankan Airlines also flies to Bangalore, via Colombo. Best to go on a package tour as it works out cheaper. Most package tours offered by the airlines include airfare, three- or four-star hotel stay, breakfast and airport transfers.