Goa, famous for its beaches and carefree lifestyle, now has its space on the fashion map too, thanks to the efforts of designer Wendell Rodricks. He has given a fresh lease of life to the Kunbi saree, which was once looked down upon — albeit after a few modifications.
The traditional saree was worn by the Goan Kunbi tribal women before the advent of the Portuguese in the 16th century. It was a cotton-chequered red-and-white saree with a sturdy weave. Worn short above ankles with a knot over the shoulder, it was well-suited for working on farmlands.
The weave, however, disappeared during the Portuguese rule when sartorial tastes changed considerably. It wasn’t until 1961, the time the Portuguese left India, that the saree made a modest reappearance.
“As far as I know, one can’t say when the saree originated. It is certainly centuries — perhaps millennia — old. Weaving of this saree was stopped in the 20th century or possibly earlier. However, we cannot say it became extinct, it simply moved — from hand-woven to machine woven, that too outside the state [of Goa],” says Rodricks.
Kunbi weaving shifted to the adjoining state of Maharashtra. The sarees would be brought from outside Goa to be worn by dancers performing during state festivals.
With this Goan fabric not finding many takers, the designer researched the project and strived to revive it. Rodricks did a bit of improvisation, adding vibrancy to the fabric. He successfully blended traditional and modern sensibilities to make the weave more acceptable to contemporary buyers.
“We identified and trained a weaver to use the loom and then used natural dyes. We removed the bordered jacquard edge, so the saree became lighter and looked more modern,” he says.
He, however, retained many traditional elements. “[We kept] the lines, checks, and the ikat weave, and as the basic premise of the design is that it’s a rural weave, no gold or silk threads were added. Ethnic stuff is always in demand. Besides, it is very unique in outlook,” Rodricks says.
Kunbi saree’s designer avatar was taken to a fashion show with a message for others. “It’s important to revive one’s own fashion first. There are many tribes in India that have a distinct fashion, but that’s lost amid Western influences in fashion. If our fashion designers start working in their regions, automatically our own style can be reprised,” he had said.
And, with a grassroots campaign to boot, Rodricks unveiled the ethnic attire in 2010. The collection, Kunbi Tribe, was showcased in all its glory, giving a breath of fresh air with simple design aesthetics, mixing ethnic with Western silhouettes.
The project saw the Kunbi saree explore the difficult journey from rural weavers to the fashion ramp. The result — the Kunbi fabric became a much talked about and appreciated subject. Before the show, no one had heard of the Kunbis or their sarees. But it enjoyed the national spotlight and received a standing ovation at the venue.
Seldom spoken to in the context of handlooms, the state began to boast of the Kunbi saree, drawing appreciation from all quarters. A sought-after garment among the fashion elite, the Kunbi fabric is worn by politicians and celebrities, including Sonia Gandhi and her daughter Priyanka Vadra. Renowned Indian model Lisa Ray became the fashion face of the Kunbi.
Rodricks says he always wanted Goa to have its own saree and as a designer, he felt embarrassed that while other states had their weaves or embroideries, his home state did not have any such thing to pride itself in. His hard work and perseverance paid off and the saree was propelled into the national mainstream.
Explaining the original designing of the Kunbi saree, Rodricks says, “The Kunbi saree was hand-woven by the tribal people. Professionals began mass producing it later. When we started afresh, we wove the saree in Goa with one weaver, who lived near the coast. After a while, I worked with the state Education Department. At that time the fashion department of Goa College of Home Science in Panjim had a single weaver to weave the saree.”
Rodricks expected the state authorities to support his efforts, but he says that not enough was done. “It’s a state saree. If the changing governments don’t support this endeavour, the Kunbi weave will be extinct.”
He said he did not expect the tribal women to once again begin weaving, as it would be a long-drawn process. “They lost the art [generations back] and it would take a long time for them to restart. But yes, it would be a good idea to some day begin weaving for them.”
So, how does one identify a Kunbi? Rodricks says, “The traditional saree is red, has checks, lines, ikat and a woven jacquard border. My saree is sans the border and the traditional colour, but at the same time it retains the soul of the saree in terms of styling and design.”
Rodricks has chosen a muted palette to make the saree contemporary. The pink dye is from a plant called manjistha that secretes red sap to protect itself from predators as its sugar content is as high as that of sugar cane.
The dyes used for the reinterpreted Kunbi sarees are grown in a forest between the borders of Maharashtra and Goa and developed by a Maharashtra-based company that deals in natural dyes.
Rodricks says that the dye is mentioned the Hindu epic “Mahabharata” and is known for its antiseptic properties. When a warrior was injured, a strip of the manjistha-dyed cotton was wrapped around the wound.
Having studied fashion designing in the United States and France from 1986 to 1988, Rodricks has received several national and international awards. These include: Padma Shri for arts by President of India Pranab Mukherjee in 2014 and the French distinction Chevalier dans l’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres in April this year in recognition for his work in showcasing Goa and reviving its traditional weave.
Priced at Rs6,500 (Dh360), the Kunbi sarees are now available at Design Space, Rodricks’ flagship store in Panjim. Talking about the price, Rodricks says that sometimes fashion needs to think beyond money. “Kunbi should, in fact, remind you of a culture, a tribe.”
Nilima Pathak is a journalist based in New Delhi.
