Nigella Lawson brines hers with spice overnight. Jamie Oliver swears by maple syrup. Delia Smith's technique is to create an oven within an oven. There’s so much contradictory advice out there, and the results are so predictable, often yielding dry cardboard-like meat, that it's a wonder anybody attempts to cook turkey at all. Or that diners order it.
Chefs in the UAE agree it is a rather bothersome bird. “If I were a person who only cooked when I had to and didn’t have over 18 years of experience in some of the best kitchens then, yes, I would agree it is not easy to know how long it takes to brine a turkey without over-salting it. Nor is it easy to know how to truss and stuff the bird so the juices stay in and the flesh doesn’t dry out. It is also not easy to know how to obtain the perfectly golden brown skin and still keep the flesh moist,” says Nicholas Vass, Executive Chef at the Address Dubai Marina. He cheekily suggests struggling home cooks buy a turkey from his hotel and say they made it at home.
There’s certainly no limit to the number of takeaway roast turkey options available. A takeaway hamper from The Address Dubai Marina retails at Dh800, and includes chestnut stuffing, potatoes, root vegetables, sprouts and more. The Radisson Blu Dubai Media City, prices a bird of between four and five kilos, enough for up to six people, at Dh425.
One of the best we’ve eaten is the one from the H Hotel, where a Christmas crate that feeds between 10 and 12 people costs Dh995 and includes a succulent, moist turkey and a slew of luxury trimmings including glazed carrots and giblet gravy, as well as bacon-wrapped sausages, cookies, mince pies, stollen, pudding and crackers.
But even in a city whose food scene is so advanced that every plate in a fine dining restaurant looks like a garden, diners eating out at this time of the year are likely to find themselves forced to choose from turkey, turkey and more turkey – the city’s many five-star hotels in essence vying to serve up what is essentially the same dish.
Even Butterball, that formidable champion of festive dinner tables, admits customers want bold, creative flavours. On its website, it suggests spicy glazes using habanero peppers, for example, and fusion dishes for our more discerning palates.
People expect turkey at Christmas,” insists Hassan Massood, Executive Chef at Radisson Blu Hotel, Dubai Media City. He says that at traditional occasions such as Christmas, people want the same decorations and food as in previous years. “Turkey is normally served on Christmas because its meat tastes so good and is so succulent that it became a must-cook meal during this period. They look forward to this lively occasion as it’s only happens once a year,” he elaborates.
He does offer ideas to pack in more flavour, though, from a golden caramel coating to a smoky paprika rub. “For an unusual twist, consider marinating your turkey or turkey breast with a mixture that employs chai or tea as its main ingredient,” he says.
Thankfully, there are also chefs willing to set the cat among the pigeons. Matias Ayala, Head Chef of Pure Sky Lounge at the Hilton Dubai The Walk, debunks the tradition argument. “Turkey is only traditional to some cultures. In Argentina, Christmas is all about beef. In France, you’re likely to be served goose or rabbit. Or game,” he tells GN Focus at a tasting of his degustation sharing Christmas menu, available all December at this laidback new lounge in the Jumeirah Beach Residence area. Its views alone would make dry turkey palatable, but thankfully, there’s none of that here.
Matias agrees the bird’s limited flavour profile needs enhancement, which explains why his menu features turkey in two ways. “People who come to our restaurant are looking for something different. Not at the level of chemical or molecular gastronomy, but food that treats everyday flavours innovatively.”
The breast meat is done with ginger and chilli and served on a bed of Asian mushrooms, while the leg is cooked in a confit of olive oil and served atop a chestnut purée. Other choice main dishes – you get to eat them all – include lamb loin and cranberry (quite simply, Christmas in the mouth), teriyaki scallops with an orange sauce, as well as a paneer, spring onion and goat’s cheese cutlet topped with a spicy kachumber salad.
“Dubai is an international city,” Ayala says. “We want to reflect that – even at Christmas.” At least there’s something for everyone.
