Follow the sacred chant

The chanting from the Buddhist temple cut through the tranquil evening air.

Intrigued, I approached the ornate façade. I saw dozens of young novice monks sitting on the carpeted floor inside. One of them got up and invited me in.

I sat spellbound, watching them at song. Once in a while, a couple of them would break off from their singing to bicker like schoolboys.

No wonder, one of the guidebooks describes Luang Prabang in northern Laos, where this temple was situated, as South East Asia's most enchanting town. So enchanting is Luang Prabang that hundreds of tourists come here each day.

Laos, nestled between Thailand and Vietnam, might be a country that few seem to have heard of, and it might have a name that fewer still can pronounce correctly (the ‘s' is silent), but it is firmly entrenched in the backpacker circuit.

Most of those visiting the town arrive, like me, after a two-day boat trip from northern Thailand.

Temple tour

The scenery along the way from the border town of Huay Xai was stunning — craggy rock and lush forest. Once in a while, the boats, which largely carried Western backpackers, stopped to pick up villagers wanting a ride.

After I alighted from the boat at Luang Prabang, my first visit was to the temples of Phu Si hill.

The climb to the top of the hill, on which the temple was perched, in bright sunshine was hard work, but the views were spectacular.

On one side, the waters of the Mekong River flowed languidly towards the ocean, while mountains stretched into the distance in the other direction.

I walked down and headed for, what is probably, the most beautiful of Luang Prabang's many temples: Wat Xieng Thong, built in the 16th century by King Sethathirat.

There was a striking tree-of-life mosaic and, even more amazing if a trifle dusty, a 12m tall funeral chariot that sat inside a small funerary chapel along with countless Buddha figures.

After seeing the temples close to the centre of town — there are so many that you see saffron-robed monks everywhere on the streets — I took a boat across the Mekong.

Most of Luang Prabang boasts of paved roads, but the section on the far side of the river has dusty tracks, across which chicken wander to and fro.

I walked through the village and, accompanied by identical twin brothers showing me the way in the hope of a tip, reached Wat Tham Thieng Maen, which is situated inside a limestone cave.

After taking pictures of the Buddha figures in the dark cave, I walked down the path through the woods. One of the twins followed me. He wanted to take me to the furthest temple, for a fee. I gave in and decided to accept his offer.

Along the way, we saw deserted temples, crossed tiny streams and pushed our way through thick grass to reach a small place of worship. It was just as well I had decided to take a guide, otherwise I would have spent hours trying to find my way back.

Hill hike

I spent the evening wandering through the bustling night market that takes up Luang Prabang's main street every evening. Cheap and colourful local handicrafts were sold at dozens of stalls.

Thanks to Luang Prabang's status as a tourist hotspot, it is easy to book treks to the neighbouring hills and I signed up for a one-day tour the next day.

After driving out of town, we began our walk, crossing a river by boat and then hiking along dusty tracks that led into the mountains. We passed local women heading back to their villages in the mountains, carrying the harvest on their backs.

Among the locals we visited were the Hmong people, who have an edgy relationship with the country's government, thanks to their history of fighting the communist Pathet Lao.

Despite the support of the US government, the Hmong failed to stop the communists from seizing power and toppling the monarchy in 1975.

After the revolution, countless Hmong fled to the US. Our guide told us that many of those who remained have suffered harassment at the hands of the government and have often been forced to leave their villages.

Amid the beautiful mountainous landscape, it was a reminder that, like neighbouring Cambodia and Vietnam, Laos has a dark, recent history lurking beneath the tourist façade.

Go there...Luang Prabang

From the UAE
I flew Etihad to Bangkok from Abu Dhabi (www.etihadairways.com).

From Bangkok, take a coach to Chiang Mai in northern Thailand.

From Chiang Mai, it is easy to book a three-day, two-night trip by minibus and slow boat to Luang Prabang.

The journey can also be made by speedboat, but these are extremely loud, so take ear plugs.

A more direct way to Laos involves flying to Bangkok and taking an overnight coach to Vientiane, the capital, from where coaches leave for Luang Prabang.

Emirates flies daily to Luang Prabang via Bangkok from Dubai.

How much
Fares start from Dh4,050 exclusive of taxes

— Information courtesy Al Tayer Travel Agency