Switzerland: For that perfect holiday
Entertainment and adventure draw holidaymakers in their zillions to Zermatt’s slopes in the Swiss Alps. Here is what provides the ski resort’s timeless appeal
One of my fondest childhood memories is rushing home after school to catch the afternoon cartoons. Heidi was one of my favourites, and excitement would build through the theme song.
I felt a familiar fluttering in my tummy as the train trundled along and the Swiss alps came ever nearer. It reached an apex at my first sight of the instantly recognisable Matterhorn. This, I just knew, must be where the incorrigible Heidi and her sidekick Peter cavorted.
Arriving at the ski resort of Zermatt is like stepping back into history. A horse-drawn carriage awaits to whisk us off to the hotel, through the bustling streets of the town tourists flock to, drawn by the jagged-toothed peak.
The town at the foot of the country’s highest peak retains its village feel. The quaint chalet-style buildings would be considered kitsch if replicated elsewhere — even the McDonald’s looks like a mountain cabin; the people emit a warmth part pragmatic celebration of the tourist economy, part olde worlde throwback; and the din of multiple languages mix with the clattering of hooves on cobblestone streets, and whine of electric cars and buses.
Here’s what makes this the perfect holiday spot.
The main attraction
Most people who come here are drawn by the majestic Matterhorn, which rises like a pyramid over its surroundings. First conquered on July 14, 1865, it is one of the highest summits in Europe at 4,478m. Surprisingly, this is a view that never gets old. There are some 38 four-thousanders (peaks above 4,000m) in the area providing different views. The Gornergrat Bahn or railway takes you up the 3,089 Gornergrat glacier, while Unterrothorn and the Klein Matterhorn are also recommended.
Explorers and climbers have flocked here since the 18th century, although it also appeals to the laid-back traveller looking to unwind. Visit Zermatt.ch
The green element
The vacation village is driven by tourism from its proximity to what has been called the world’s most recognisable mountain peak. Part of its charm lies in its car-free status. This means you can experience the fresh, clean mountain air — Zermatt lies at an elevation of 1,620m — in its purest form. The unpolluted air also makes for clear vantages of the mountain.
All visitors leave their vehicles in Täsch, about ten minutes outside the town. In Zermatt, everything from taxis to delivery vehicles is powered by green energy.
But the village is also small enough to traverse by foot — often the best way to explore a new place.
Fun in the sun
Unique for a destination famous for its winter activities, Zermatt offers the summer traveller just as much to do. The glaciers are covered in snow year-round, but in summer the valleys and lower areas reveal a lush grass and covering dotted with flowers.
Climbing and mountaineering are the obvious choices, but mountain biking on the 100km of trails is becoming increasingly popular. The area also boasts 400km of hiking paths. There’s also a nine-hole golf course for those more comfortable on the greens than on skis.
Not that you have to do anything, of course. You could also find a terrace and just soak in the views.
Winter wonderland
Apart from the powder snow-bound activities, the igloo village Zermatt on Rotenboden (2,727m) is a must-visit. The igloos are rebuilt every year, and make a great spot to warm up with regional cuisine (try the fondue) and beverages.
Related to this, gourmet skiing has become popular with different routes offering different culinary experiences. Start with breakfast on one glacier, ski to your lunch and then afternoon tea destinations, and maybe even on to a romantic dinner spot. Don’t be surprised to find diners, fortified by digestifs, sledging down dark paths from mountain restaurants to the town.
There are also traditional sports and arts and crafts to experience, while the museum in the centre provides a glimpse into how Zermatt became the popular resort it is today.
Shopping
Zermatt’s Bahnhofstrasse and the arteries that lead off it might be dominated by ski-related shops, but that doesn’t mean there’s no retail therapy to be had. This being Switzerland, all the top watch brands have pride of place, while high-end fashion brands are also represented.
Entertain us
Après-ski is to Zermatt what the Friday brunch is to Dubai, and like the latter, can last long into the night, every night. The town has become known for its live music — especially jazz — so go and discover something new.
Among the fairs, theatre performances and festivals organised throughout the year, Zermatt Unplugged is probably the most famous, attracting thousands annually for five days of music featuring 45 artists on 13 stages.
All-year skiing
Whether its summer or winter, Zermatt is a ski paradise like no other. There aren’t many places where you can follow a ski session on the slopes with a round of golf.
Europe’s highest all-year-round skiing region offers 360km of pristine pistes to explore — including the continent’s longest — fit for all levels. The glaciers are well connected; you can even ski from Zermatt in Switzerland to the Italian town of Cervinia and back in a few hours.
The best part? Having a massage after your session on the slopes, or heading straight for après-ski. And neither is reserved for those who were actually on skis or snowboards.
Where to stay and eat
The five-star Grand Hotel Zermatterhof in the centre of town embodies luxury, combining an old-school palatial feel with mod cons.
As can be expected, the views are amazing, but the suites are where the focus on hospitality hits home. They leave no stone unturned to ensure guests’ comfort, from pillow menus to complimentary drinks, and after a day on the slopes there’s nothing better to come home to than a hot bath and a crackling fire.
I was most impressed by its food offering, though. Alpine Gourmet Prato Borni proves fine dining doesn’t always have to be French. It places a strong emphasis on local products, and unusual tastes and pairings. Take for example a pickled cucumber sorbet palate cleanser, or the lemon mayonnaise or chestnut pureé that pop up in other dishes.
But it’s the people at the heart of this operation that makes it work — warm, friendly and professional, they create the impression that this isn’t just a job. It’s a throwback to this property’s origins, where the townsfolk banded together to build it. Visit Zermatterhof.ch
Getting there
Swiss Air starts your vacation in style. The airline’s award winning Business Class is centred around the air cushion seats that double as a massage chair and converts to a 2m flat bed, but it was the gastronomic offering that appealed to me most.
Felix Suter of Michelin-starred Restaurant Schlüssel in Oberwil designs a number of dishes on the menu, including a perfect guinea fowl breast paired with thyme gemi-glace, polenta galettes, spinach and carrots. The airline also ropes in the help of Hiltl, which was the world’s first vegetarian restaurant when it opened in 1898, for its herbivorous dishes. Visit Swiss.com
The country’s rail network makes getting around easy and comfortable, and with multiple Swiss Travel System passes it’s also economical. Trains run on schedule to a fault — but beware, there’s no warning when doors will close and you don’t want to be left behind on the platform. Visit Myswitzerland.com/rail
