The Kurator’s Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2026 round-up

From Kate Moss closing Gucci in a floor-length sequinned gown to the striking exploration of tone and texture at Armani, this season was about what garments do — how they define identity, assert presence, and converse with space and body. Across the city’s runways, designers explored the tension between heritage and experimentation, and each show has proven hard to erase from the mind.

Demna’s debut AW26 runway at Gucci was built on a simple principle: make the brand have feeling again. This was a collection to be experienced. Tight, body-conscious silhouettes dominated — mini dresses, midi skirts, fitted tops, and low-rise trousers — creating a sense of energy and immediacy. Textures alternated between sheer lace, shimmering jacquard, and supple satin. Black anchored the palette, while jewel tones punctuated moments of drama.

Accessories, from updated handbags to chain-link jewellery, reinforced cohesion without distraction, as did the heavenly heels that made it hard not to add everything to our baskets immediately. Which, by the way, was possible — every piece in the collection was available to buy straight from the show.

The closing moment — Kate Moss in a black sequinned gown — perfectly concluded the vision: Gucci as sensation, not just image, and a revival of its finest 90s codes. Each look felt wearable yet exciting, like it could already belong to someone you know. A new chapter for Gucci — and we’re already eager to see what comes next.

At the Deposito inside Fondazione Prada, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons turned layering into a language. Coats opened to reveal knitwear; skirts split to expose linings; garments interlocked in motion as models traversed the space. The effect was deliberate yet natural — translating the act of dressing into an expressive, spatial experience.

A restrained palette of deep neutrals was punctuated by bright, juicy pinks, threading the collection with warmth and energy. Each silhouette functioned as a node within a larger system — relationships between weight, volume, and exposure creating tension and clarity simultaneously.

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana returned to the language of the body. Tailored jackets, corsetry, and lace met trousers and structured skirts to assert confidence without theatrics. Silhouettes emphasised the corporeal frame; movement was readable and intentional.

Black dominated, acting as a stage for intricate textures and embroidery, while sheers and sharp suiting commanded attention. Celebrity front-row presence, including Madonna, underscored the collection’s social resonance — a reminder that Dolce & Gabbana remains a house capable of articulating cultural authority as fluently as sartorial detail.

Armani’s collection unfolded as a tonal conversation. Jackets shed padding, coats draped with natural ease, and trousers extended fluidly along the body. The palette moved through smoky grey, sage, and navy, with burgundy accents marking eveningwear.

Flannel, cashmere, crepe, and velvet created subtle gradations that articulated form without excess ornament. Lightly embroidered, layered evening tunics evoked topography and dimension. It felt intelligent, sleek, and truly Armani at its core.

Maria Grazia Chiuri’s debut back at Fendi reaffirmed the house’s direction. Black and dark neutrals formed the base, sparingly accented with deep reds, ivory, and tactile textures. Leather, tailoring, and sculptural outerwear asserted their importance.

Silhouettes balanced structure with ease; accessories were integrated instruments rather than afterthoughts. Each look felt strong, diverse, and independent. The confidence radiating from the runway was almost tangible — as though stepping into a piece meant inhabiting the same aura. Hard not to love. Hard not to want.

At BOSS, Marco Falcioni translated archival tailoring into a contemporary vocabulary. Sculpted shoulders, elevated lapels, and balanced proportions created formality tempered with modern utility.

Outerwear merged traditional fabrics with technical materials — brushed alpaca and treated leather — producing hybrid garments that balanced elegance with adaptability. Ink black, navy, olive, rust, and ochre reinforced authority without distraction.

Scarves, ties, floral brooches, and subtle prints added texture without overwhelming narrative. The collection carried both personality and everyday wearability — and yes, David Beckham’s front-row presence added that undeniable cool-factor tick.

Tod’s celebrated leather as narrative. Pashmy calfskin — soft and luminous — shaped coats, skirts, and trousers, merging heritage with modern sensibility. Quilted bombers and tailored trenches played with volume, while rich natural tones — burnt caramel, chocolate, ginger — grounded the palette.

Foulard dresses and patchwork introduced movement. Footwear echoed the same refinement: polished loafers, ankle boots with saddlery-inspired straps, and Gommino sneakers in supple suede. Lettered metal accents on accessories offered a subtle nod to personalisation, linking craftsmanship with self-expression.

Loro Piana’s Nomadic Reverie translated the idea of journey into layered expression. Paisley, printed across coats, knitwear, and accessories, acted as a visual echo of memory accumulated over distance.

Fabrics — from Royal Lightness® to tweed and merino — created weight, warmth, and tactile intrigue. Colours transitioned from ochre and terracotta through deep green to midnight blue, with black and gold anchoring eveningwear.

Silhouettes were elongated and fluid; relaxed blazers and functional headwear reinforced understated authority. The collection felt both sensorial and conceptual — evoking journey rather than destination.