Paris Fashion Week Roundup: Part 1

This season, designers are pushing boundaries and deconstructing identity through fashion. Valentino explored vulnerability, McQueen redefined dandyism, Schiaparelli played with power and Western codes, and Elie Saab transformed the Alps into a dreamscape of high-altitude. Each brand's collection wove together themes of transformation and self-expression.

Pierpaolo Piccioli’s latest Valentino collection was an existential study in self-perception. Can we ever be truly seen beneath society’s layers? His answer: garments that both revealed and obscured, playing with transparency, deconstruction, and movement. Ethereal sheers, sculptural draping, and shadowy monochromes blurred the line between exposure and concealment, suggesting that even in our most intimate moments, identity is a shifting performance.

Masculine and feminine, rugged and refined - Schiaparelli’s latest collection thrived in contrast. Rooted in female agency, it fused Western elements with surrealist opulence. Tooled leather met ethereal jacquards, while statement gold jewelry - eyes, noses, keyholes - hovered on the skin like symbols of unseen power. This was power dressing not for the male gaze, but for women who command attention on their own terms.

Elie Saab took après-ski glamour to new heights, balancing opulence with effortlessness. Midnight black, pine green, and burnished burgundy wrapped the collection in warmth, while voluminous fur coats, sleek leggings, and embroidered tube skirts redefined winter elegance. As dusk fell, structured silk corsets and cascading beadwork mimicked glacial formations, offering a vision of winter luxury at its most intoxicating. Accessories - Alaskan hats, fur-trimmed snow boots, sculptural bags - sealed the fantasy of high-altitude indulgence.

Maria Grazia Chiuri turned to Virginia Woolf’s Orlando as a lens for exploring the fluidity of fashion across centuries. On her research board: Woolf, Vita Sackville-West, and theatrical interpretations of Orlando, reflecting Chiuri’s fascination with the evolution of costume. The collection referenced everything from Tudor doublets to Victorian corsetry, seamlessly translated into modern wearability. Menswear-inspired jackets with exposed tailoring stitches, corseted parkas with removable boning, and velvet brocade coats reimagined historic silhouettes for contemporary dressing. Even Dior’s signature elements- corsetry, equestrian tailoring, and archival nods - felt reinvigorated, proving that history can be a playground for reinvention.

Olivier Rousteing offered a new perspective on glamour - one that felt less rigid, more effortless, but no less luxurious. His Balmain collection was a study in relaxed sophistication, where cozy textures met couture precision. Knitwear became a canvas for opulence, elevated with gilded embellishments and sculptural layering. Monochrome palettes grounded the collection, while bursts of citrus hues injected energy. Statement coats - whether in bold zebra print or structured peplum shapes - anchored the lineup, proving that drama and ease can coexist. It was a reminder that Balmain’s signature confidence doesn’t always have to shout; sometimes, it can smolder.

Balenciaga's Winter 25 collection expands its collaborations with Alpinestars and PUMA. The Alpinestars partnership introduces high-performance racing gear, including the SuperTech R10 Helmet and reworked gloves with Balenciaga’s signature detailing. The collection blends motorsports technology with fashion, incorporating aerodynamic designs and enhanced comfort.The Balenciaga | PUMA collaboration reimagines iconic sportswear, including the Speedcat Sneaker and technical tracksuits, merging PUMA’s performance legacy with Balenciaga’s luxury touch. Accessories like the co-branded Dyneema® shopper bag emphasize the fusion of sport and high fashion.

Chemena Kamali’s direction at Chloé has revitalized the brand’s spirit by blending nostalgic 2000s vibes with the iconic '70s Karl Lagerfeld era, reimagined for today’s wardrobe. Kamali has successfully bridged the gap between Chloé’s bohemian roots and a more structured, aristocratic sensibility, incorporating Victorian-inspired outerwear, family heirloom jewelry, and luxe maxi dresses. Her references to the early '80s Karl Lagerfeld Chloé collection - particularly the voluminous dolman-sleeve coats and leather jackets - infuse the latest designs with a daring modern edge. Kamali also brought an unexpected touch with bold, padded silhouettes and playful lace pannier dresses, pushing Chloé’s femininity into a new, adventurous territory.

Tom Ford’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection evokes a sense of allure, inspired by the private, mysterious spaces where the unknown unfolds. The show, bathed in grey tones, reflected Ford's signature mix of elegance and boldness. Bright pastels brought freshness to the sleek silhouettes, while classic black and grey grounded the designs in timeless sophistication. The androgynous models embodied a modern elegance, with pieces that combine architectural shapes with minimalist details, celebrating the purity of lines and simplicity. The collection was a celebration of both joy and intimacy, with vibrant hues reflecting a sense of freedom and playfulness. Accessories like heels, statement belts, and jewelry added further depth, creating an understated yet powerful message of beauty. As Ford put it, this season is about embracing what remains when everything unnecessary is stripped away -  emotions and impressions.

On International Women’s Day, Nadège Vanhée presented Leather Dandy for Hermès, marking her strongest collection in the 10 years she’s been with the house. This collection was a celebration of sleek, empowered femininity, seamlessly blending Hermès’ mastery in leather with edgy, modern design. Leather, felt, and brogue detailing were expertly used in hyper-slim, deep-V dresses, exuding both minimalism and sensuality. Strong-shouldered leather jackets, kick-flare leather pants, and ergonomic bags defined a collection that embodied both strength and grace, a nod to a new era of female power in fashion.