A Facebook post from a friend in Toronto on the sudden appearance of ‘tiffin carriers’ in stores there invited interested comment, some wanting to know what these were. Obviously the ones asking were Canadian because pictures of this item would be recognisable to any Indian who has grown up in their home country.
To the uninitiated, this used to be an indispensable utensil in Indian kitchens until plastic wormed its way into the heart of the Indian housewife. The metal carrier comprises several containers stacked one on top of the other and enclosed within a framework which locks at the top, ensuring there is no spillage.
It is used to carry various courses of an Indian meal and is made of aluminium or stainless steel. However, no self-respecting south Indian housewife will consider anything but the last mentioned metal. Indeed, in many homes, one can find an array of artfully arranged stainless dishes and utensils gleaming on shelves — the pride and joy of many a house-proud woman.
The sight of men carrying these on their way to the office is not uncommon although the younger generation wouldn’t be seen dead toting one of these. You see, it’s all about keeping up appearances. Once upon a time, it was unthinkable to embark on a train journey without one of these in tow. As soon as the train started chugging out of the station, the tiffin-carrier would be taken out carefully from a basket and placed on the small table between the berths. This was food, so it was always treated with appropriate reverence. As soon as dusk fell, the carrier was opened and stainless steel plates were filled to the brim. The matriarch usually ate last as she was kept busy serving everyone and seeing that they had their fill.
With people seeming to have less and less time to prepare for journeys, food is now served on the train in rather impressive packaging. On my last train journey back home some months ago, I was surprised to be served soup before the meal. This was definitely an improvement from when I had travelled last by this mode of transport.
I did hear a strange story though about something that happens even today. A friend of a friend always packs a tiffin-carrier with home-cooked food while flying home to India. She doesn’t trust airline food (perhaps that is wise on her part) and would rather be sure of what she’s ingesting.
It took a visit from Prince Charles to propel these into the international limelight. The Mumbai Tiffin Box Suppliers Association is a streamlined 120-year-old organisation delivering meals to office-goers the length and breadth of the city. The prince was amazed by the impeccable system which depends on teamwork and meticulous timing. All the meals are delivered on time and by people who travel on crowded trains and work in a relay system.
So impressed was he with this service network that he even invited some representatives to his wedding to Camilla. One of these organisations sent the couple clothes typically worn at a Maharashtrian marriage.
In school it was the girls who sat in groups during the long break. As soon as they had settled, out came the lunch boxes and the sharing. Eating and talking at the same time, it was a time to exchange news and views. The boys, on the other hand, could be seen engaged in games which involved a lot of running, shouting and arguing.
The concept of sharing food is an intrinsic part of our culture and there is never any excuse not to extend this hospitality. The tiered food carrier is one way of being a gracious host even when away from home.
