Ice-water facials craze: A frozen fix for puffiness and pores or just another skincare fad? Experts weigh in

To be honest, I detest the thought of cold water on my face, especially early in the morning. Nothing can get you into a crabby mood than a dash of cold water.

 But hey, if it does work well for the skin, then…why not? Clearly, the beauty world keeps rolling with the quirky skincare routines and an ice-water facial is the latest to get skincare enthusiasts talking and doing a range of TikTok challenges.

But even if you might squirm through the discomfort, is it really worth the hype?

What is an ice-water facial?

 Brrrr.

 An ice-water facial involves splashing your face with ice-cold water, or applying ice directly to the skin as part of a skincare routine. Dubai-based Tamanna Taurani, a dermatologist and skin specialist explains, “It can range from a quick, 30-second cold splash to longer, more involved ice treatments. It’s believed to reduce puffiness, tighten the skin, and refresh the complexion.”

 Now, whether it does, is another question.

Does it reduce puffiness and swelling?

Taurani explains: When exposed to cold temperatures, blood vessels constrict in a process known as vasoconstriction, which leads to a reduction in swelling and puffiness, especially around the eyes. Cold therapy is commonly used in physical therapy and dermatology to reduce inflammation and promote recovery. A 2014 study published in the Journal of Dermatological Treatment found that cooling treatments can help alleviate inflammation and reduce puffiness in skin by constricting blood vessels and limiting the flow of fluid into tissue.

 So, for those struggling with puffy eyes or face in the morning, a quick ice splash can offer temporary relief.

 Tightens pores

 This dash of cold water does cause your skin to contract, resulting in a temporary tightening effect. While it doesn’t permanently ‘shrink’ pores, it can make them appear smaller, according to Taurani. “The cold-induced tightening of the skin is especially useful in enhancing the smoothness and appearance of your complexion right before applying makeup,” she adds.

Boosts circulation

 Applying ice to the skin stimulates blood circulation as the body tries to warm the skin back to its natural temperature. “This is believed to leave you with a more vibrant, glowing appearance. The circulation boost can also help with oxygen delivery to skin cells, promoting a healthier complexion. However, it’s important to note that this effect is temporary, as the body returns to baseline after the cold stimulus is removed,” explains Taurani.

Improving skin tone

 Citing research, Anna Jordan, a holistic wellness expert explains that cold therapy has been linked to improved skin tone due to increased blood flow and the removal of waste products from skin cells. “The increased circulation helps revitalise the skin, leaving you with a radiant and even complexion. Studies have shown that regular cold treatments can have positive effects on skin appearance, especially when combined with other skincare routines such as moisturizing and exfoliating,” she says.

The short-term effects versus the long-term effects

While the ice-water facial can give you an instant glow, tightening, and reducing puffiness, these effects are short-lived. You’ll get a refreshed look after an ice-water splash, but they don’t offer long-term results unless combined with other skincare treatments. For instance, regular use of cold therapy may reduce transient puffiness and inflammation, but won't provide long-term improvements to underlying skin conditions like acne or fine lines.

 And, there are risks involved, too.

What are the risks?

 As both experts explain: Direct ice contact can cause irritation or even skin damage, especially for those with sensitive skin or conditions like rosacea. Moreover, prolonged exposure to extreme cold could lead to ice burns or frostbite, although this is rare. For a safer approach, avoid placing ice directly on your skin. Wrap it in a cloth or use an ice roller to gently massage your face. This minimises the risk of harsh skin damage while still offering cooling benefits.

So, does it really work?

Where does this icy fairytale leave us? It works, with some nuances. It isn’t a miracle treatment that will permanently change your skin Jordan adds, “It does offer immediate benefits, like reduced puffiness, tightened pores, and a refreshed appearance, making it a great quick fix before an event or when you need a little pick-me-up.”

 For long-lasting results, incorporating cold therapy into a broader skincare routine, including hydration, sun protection, and targeted treatments for specific concerns, will ensure a more sustainable approach to skincare.