Keep your skin safe at 50°C: The right layering routine for UAE summers

You’ve tried the trending serums, puzzled over snail mucin, and indulged in luxurious night creams, but here’s the truth: if you’re not applying your products in the correct order, you could be cancelling out their benefits. Worse, you might even be damaging your skin.

Moreover, in the peak UAE summers, thick moisturizers, layered actives, and the wrong combinations can easily backfire, clogging pores or causing irritation. But you don’t have to give up on glowing skin. The key: Knowing how to layer smartly. The truth is, layering skincare isn’t about being fussy. It’s about science, absorption, and synergy. You need to know that the concept of layering products in skincare is based on the principle that each of these ingredients have unique benefits and work synergistically when used in combination.

As specialists like Fazeela Abbasi, dermatologist at the Euromed clinic, and Kinga Szymanska, a Dubai-based laser and skin cosmetologist had earlier explained to us about the rules of skincare, each ingredient has a role to play.

Let's refresh for the summer. This guide breaks down the right way to apply serums in extreme heat — so you stay hydrated, protected, and breakout-free, no matter how brutal the weather gets.

The basic skincare routine follows the process of cleansing, exfoliating, toning, serums, moisturising and sunscreen. It sounds easy enough and you may include several more steps, but you must remember that more products doesn’t ensure better results. Moreover, combining all products at once, can not only irritate your skin, but harm it as well.

To help you out, here's the place of each product and step in skincare:

Begin with a gentle cleanser to remove oil, dirt, and makeup. If your skin feels tight afterwards, it’s too harsh. Look for pH-balanced formulas (~5.5) to protect your skin barrier. In fact, a 2018 study in Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology linked harsh cleansers to long-term damage in the skin’s microbiome — leading to dryness and inflammation.

So, why do you need to cleanse? It removes dirt, oil, and impurities, preparing the skin for absorption of the products. This is followed by toning, which balances the skin’s pH levels.

Toners provide hydration, improved the effectiveness of the products. Moreover, toners have just come a long way from drying out pimples and acne: They now focus on hydration and nourishment, more than oil absorption. There are also new kinds of toners that have exfoliating elements as well, which helps with the next step in your skincare too.

Exfoliants come in many forms, from serums and masks to toners and scrubs,  but no matter the format, one thing remains consistent: they work best right after cleansing. This is when your skin is most receptive to ingredients like alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), which help lift away dead skin cells and reveal a smoother, brighter complexion.

 Let’s break it down.

AHAs are naturally derived acids, often from foods like milk, citrus fruits, and sugarcane,  and they’re widely used in skincare to exfoliate the surface of the skin. By loosening the bonds between dead skin cells, AHAs promote increased cell turnover and encourage fresh, healthy skin to emerge.

You’ll find AHAs in everything from serums and toners to peel pads and moisturizers.

Why they matter: According to Medical News Today, AHAs are a gentler and more skin-friendly alternative to harsh scrubs and abrasive cleansing tools. They’re especially beneficial for those with dry, dull, or flaky skin, and with regular use, AHAs can even help stimulate collagen and elastin production, improving skin texture and firmness over time.

BHAs, like salicylic acid, are oil-soluble acids typically sourced from tree bark or fruits. Unlike AHAs, which work on the surface, BHAs penetrate deeper into the pores — making them ideal for oily and acne-prone skin.

Why they matter: BHAs help unclog pores, reduce inflammation, and prevent breakouts, all while gently exfoliating the skin. They’re a go-to for anyone struggling with blackheads, congestion, or persistent blemishes.

While everyone’s skin is unique, it is still advisable to use exfoliants 2 to 3 times a week. Don’t apply them every day, as salicylic acids can be harsh to your skin, as Fazeela Abbasi, dermatologist at the Euromed clinic had earlier told us.  “Using the BHA’s every day doesn’t make sense, as it will be peeling off your skin. If you’re combining the BHAs and AHA’s, you need to see the percentage of how much is being used, and how much exposure to the sun you have. You need to see your lifestyle before you start marrying these ingredients together,” advises Abbasi.

Whenever you use an AHA, use a moisturising product right after, including sunscreen. Moisturising is important, as it will limit irritation, so look for ceramides, hyaluronic acid and glycerin, as it will sooth the skin, say experts.

A hydration essential, hyaluronic acid is a humectant that draws moisture into the skin. It’s gentle enough to use morning and night and works well with nearly every other ingredient.

Pairs well with: Niacinamide, vitamin C, ceramides, squalane, retinol.

Niacinamide

This vitamin B3 derivative strengthens the skin barrier, minimizes the appearance of pores, and controls oil production. It also helps reduce inflammation and redness.

·         Best used after hyaluronic acid for boosted hydration.

·         Can be used in both morning and night routines.

Avoid layering directly with: Vitamin C, due to potential interaction and reduced potency. If using both, wait at least 10 minutes between products.

A potent antioxidant, vitamin C brightens skin, fades pigmentation, and protects against free radical damage. It’s most effective in the morning under sunscreen.

Apply after cleansing and hyaluronic acid.

Follow with moisturiser and SPF.

Do not mix with: Retinol, niacinamide, AHAs, BHAs. Keep your actives separated for best results and to avoid irritation.

Vitamin C protects, retinol repairs. They serve different purposes and are best used at different times of day.

Retinol is one of the most effective anti-aging ingredients, but it requires a cautious approach. It promotes cell turnover, fades dark spots, and boosts collagen production.

Use at night only, starting with one or two nights a week.

Apply to dry skin to reduce irritation.

Always follow with a moisturizer or barrier-repairing ingredients.

Do not combine with: Vitamin C, benzoyl peroxide, or exfoliating acids like AHAs or BHAs. Retinol should be used on dry skin, not damp, or it can penetrate too deeply and cause irritation.

Sample routine: Skincare cycling for balance

Rotating your actives through the week helps prevent overuse and skin fatigue. Here’s a sample cycle to avoid irritation:

Morning: Hyaluronic acid, Vitamin C, moisturiser and then Sunscreen

Night 1: AHA or BHA to moisturiser

Night 2: Retinol, Hyaluronic acid and then moisturiser

Night 3: Niacinamide, ceramides and then moisturiser